Buying a used AK

[kayak-man]

Hey everyone,

I'm going over to look at an AK variant this week . It is used, but the seller seems very forthcoming with information, so I'm not too worried about a scam or buying a piece of junk.
Just to be on the safe side though, what are some of the AK specific things I need to look at?
I've never bought an autoloader before , what should I look for in the magazines?

Thanks guys, and it goes without saying, if I buy it, I will post picks .

 

[Dravur]

what should I look for in the magazines?

Bullets

 

[OrangePwrx9]

If they're metal Eastern-bloc magazines, they're hell-for-stout and are unlikely to give problems. If they do act up, it's easy to get replacements, though I'd stick to the Com-bloc metal magazines if possible.

Also check for front sight cant. If the thing is properly zeroed, yet the front sight post is way off center in the base, the front sight is canted. Not the end of the world, but rather annoying. I have one that way and have decided to live with it.

The chrome-lined barrel is nice to have. Helps the gun survive abuse. Most AKs have chrome. I think only the Yugo made models do not.

You might want to check out the Saiga before you commit. They're a de-milled AK with a conventional hunting stock; no separate pistol grip. Prices have come down to near $300 new. They're made in Russia at the same place that makes Russian AKs. You give up AK snappy handling and appearance but you get something that doesn't raise eyebrows. A couple of small mods will let you use Com-bloc mags. You can easily convert it to AK config later if you're of the mind. Information abounds on the web.
Bob

 

[nalioth]

You might want to check out the Saiga before you commit. They're a de-milled AK with a conventional hunting stock;

Saigas aren't "de-milled" anything.

They're purposefully made that way, for compliance with our stupid laws.

The WASR is made of demilled/rejected parts.
The SSR-85C is made of demilled parts.

The Saiga is made of all first quality brand new parts (nothing demilled or rejected).

 

[Ohio Gun Guy]

Dont let an ak scare you. Do all of the same checks as any other firearm. Barrel, action, condition, etc,etc.

The great think about AKs, is that they are fairly simple to work on, lots of stuff is available for them, etc. Nearly any problem has a solution. So as long as the guy hasnt cut, ground, welded on the thing you will be fine.

 

[briansmithwins]

One of the biggest questions to AK is 'who made this?'

AKs require fitting of parts to work properly. A factory with trained techs usually gets this right, Bubba with a Makita and tap set maybe not.

Get the seller to field strip the rifle, look thru the bore, and look at the internals. The bolt and locking areas on the front trunnion should be free of burrs, the bore should be smooth and shiny, and the crown should be sharp and clean.

The rifle is trying to tell you a story: You want to make sure that story is the same as the one the seller is peddling. If the seller says he does 'run and gun' matches with the AK and it shows some wear, good! He probably ain't taking a unreliable dog out to shoot a whole lot. If he says the rifle has hardly been shot but the gas system looks like a Welsh coal mine, walk away. BSW

 

[Sam1911]

Grasp the dust cover and try to slide it to the rear. It shouldn't pop free at the front end. Sometimes if the build wasn't done carefully the rear trunion can be set too far back and the dust cover will pop out of it's front groove when the action cycles. We had a thread about this with a Lancaster-built gun a couple of weeks ago. Here: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=491989

Unusual, but it happens.

 

[RP88]

what kind of AK-47 is it?

WASR? Yugo M70? SLR? Saiga?

Tell us what kind and we can give more specific info on how good it is and what to look out for.

 

[Hizzie]

In regards to buying any AK variant 1 should look for:

Front Sight Cant
Gas Block Cant
Rear Sight Block Cant
Magazine Lock-Up (try with several mags) rear of mag should not droop.
Check Serial Numbers on bolt, carrier and trunnion (if built from parts kit) They should match. If not weapon should be checked for head spacing.



Specifically for Used AK's:

Remove muzzle brake and check for corrosion
Check Fire Control Group for tampering


Hope this helps, all I could think of.

 

[kayak-man]

I believe he said its a Romanian, and that he assembled it as a parts kit and yes, I beleive it does have the chromed barrel. I can't find the original post anymore, but here is one of the E-mails he sent me. Some of the stuff in it may be a little irelevant, but I figured that it might give some of yall an idea of if this guy knows his stuff.


"It is in 7.62x39. It's very reliable. you could fill it with dirt and run it over and it would still run. This gun isn't a WASR 10 from Century arms.. those tend to be mismatched loose AK parts slapped together.. I have an easier time hitting consistently with my AKs than my AR. They are probably the easiest semi auto gun to strip and clean out there. much easier than a 10/22 or an AR. When I clean mine I run a bore snake down the barrel with hoppes, then oil. Then I pull the carrier out and do the gas tube with a brush down it with hoppes, then some oil. I take the carrier out and lightly oil it. done. If I shoot corrosive I wash the gun with soapy water before oiling it. Most 7.62 is non corrosive though. if you go to the AKFILES.COM you can find a ton of good info. I pretty much only shoot AK's, 10/22s, and Glocks. I really like the folding stocks as they make the gun a lot more compact for taking them around."

Thanks for everything. This is going to be my first firearms purchase, as technically my dad and I are equal partners in the shotgun, and all the handguns are his. I really appreciate the help, guys!

 

[Nick5182]

I hate to go off subject, but really don't want to start a new thread. I was just wondering though if you can get Hi-cap mags for the Saiga in either .223, .308, or 7.62X39?

 

[RP88]

if it is from a Romanian kit, it can be the types of kits used to make WASR-10s, or G-code Romy AKs (unlike WASRs, those aren't reject parts iirc). Or can even be a Romy kit of simple unknown provenance. I would not buy it without thoroughly examining it first. I'd also check the price and make sure it's a good, reasonable price. I'm not one to pay more than $350 for a WASR, and that is still giving them too much value in many people's opinions.

Romanian AKs have problems that are attributed to Romanian quality control, not just Century Drunken Monkey control. I'd give it a good look if I were you.

I also wouldn't look into that guy's personal experience to be used as a decision on if the gun is worth it or not. Because...honestly, I'm not one to sit there like other AR guys and say the AK is the most inaccurate gun ever, but: if he's easily outshooting his AR with an AK, then he either got the AK that was hand-picked by Kalashnikov himself and fitted by Ed Brown's shop, or his AR is pretty crappy.

 

[kayak-man]

RP88, that was some very good advice. He said that it wasn't a WASR or Century, but I will definitely try to find out more about its history. After reading your post, I think his asking price might be a bit high, as he wants 450 for it. That may not be what the gun is worth, but it is what the gun is worth around here, as I've been looking for a while and have been able to find one under 500 until now. My thoughts on his personal experience was more along the lines of if his cleaning of the gun and ammo choice was acceptable.
Either way, I'm going to learn how to field strip an AK tonight

As I said guys, thanks a lot. This is my first purchase, and I appreciate that you have my back.

 

[RP88]

does anyone in your area do transfers?

Classic arms sells WASR-10s for decent prices. After a transfer fee and shipping, you can grab one for a tad under $400 give or take.

WASRs aren't horrible firearms, but they do look like crud. They do not try and dress up like lookers, like some AKs that will rust in a heartbeat and send their muzzle devices down the range (but hey, at least they look cute with that parkerizing), but they will be fine as long as the sights are straight.

But, if you WERE intent on spending $450 bucks....I say you take that money, save up a little more, and either convert a Saiga OR get a Yugoslavian M70AB2 underfolder; the Yugos are "made" by century, but unlike the Romanians are known for great quality work.

 

[kayak-man]

RP88,

Thanks again, you're now one of my top ten favorite HighRoad members
I think I am going to go with the classic arms WASR 10, it may not be quite as good, but it will free up about 100 bucks for ammo, or realoading gear if I decide to go down that road... or a Saiga 12 ... or that Glock 26 when I get my CCW permit.

THanks guys