Calling all Duracoat users....

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Geneseo1911

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I'm working on making a nice walnut stock set for my Saiga 12. I like the irony. Anyway, due to the lousy, drippy factory finish, and the other bits of finish I ground off while working on the front sight, I decided not to worry about sanding off the finish while fitting the wood to the metal. This leaves me with some bare spots that need to be covered. I'm more or less decided on Duracoat since I don't want to stink up the oven and it gets pretty good reviews. Besides, I already own a compressor & gun.

The question is, has anyone experienced the standard Duracoat burning off the barrel? In the faqs they mention a limit of around 600 deg. I have no idea how hot the S-12 gets, but I do occasionally like to just "blaze". I realize a SG won't get nearly as hot as a rifle, but this thing will really rip them off.

I guess maybe I should go borrow an infared gun & burn a hundred rounds or so to find out.
 
Hi!

I used Duracoat on my AKS-74 build. I don't know how hot the barrel has gotten as I'm not into bump-firing or mag-dumps in general, but it has been used in competitions a little and didn't burn any off.

However, try as I might, with heat and chemical strippers, I never got ALL the Cosmolene out of the crevices and tiny clearances between parts. So I have a few places where the Duracoat just never adhered to the metal. Mostly it's around the gas block, and it's pretty unnoticable with the handguards on.

Now, as it's an AK, and an AK that I use vigorously -- and considering how insubstantial the original finish was to begin with -- it doesn't bother me in the least.

I'd go with the Duracoat and not worry in the least.

Good luck!

-Sam
 
Or you could save money with a can of black Duplicolor wheel paint. It's every bit as durable as duracoat.
 
Or you could save money with a can of black Duplicolor wheel paint. It's every bit as durable as duracoat.
Click to expand...

So, and you've tested this scientifically how? The military has accepted Duracoat as a Mil-Spec coating, but has somehow missed DupliColor.
 
I think he meant the BBQ flavored spray paint.


I've used Duracoat and have posted as to how freaking strong it has been in my case. On a Romy-G stock I slipped with the srcewdriver installing the tight sling mount. Flat head screwdriver raked across the stock, and landed IN the skin of my first fingers joint. It took 30 tries with Macro setting on my digital camera to even get it to show up. Paint was unfazed. Finger was scabby for 10 days....

Justin
 
Having rehabilitated a BBQ or 10 over the years, I can say with certainty that DupliColor is at least as strong as the crummy aluminum they make the BBQ's out of. I've dented BBQ's and not caused any paint damage.

Of course, BBQ's are now completely disposable, along with everything else.

ETA: Automotive header paint handles massive amounts of heat and is tough as nails, too...
 
It's been my experience that Duracoat gets harder and more durable as time passes. If the surfaces are prepared correctly, it will endure.


NCsmitty
 
Dura coat burn off

I've used Duracoat a lot and had no problems with burn off,but if your worried you can use their high temp stuff that was made for MG barrels and with an 1800 degree burn off temp I don't think you will have any problems with the AK.

Have fun.
 
Again, the key is in the prep. I blast with AlOx, and it gives me a wonderful "tooth" for the Duracoat. I spray the Duracoat right after blasting so I don't get any rust starting. One tip with Duracoat, the instructions say if you are going to give a second coat or different color coat, don't wait more than 7 hrs or the finish will harden too much to get proper bond. I've also messed a coat up by messing with the parts too soon. Now I wait at least 2 hrs before masking for more colors, or assembling.
 
I used Duracoat on my WASR-2. Then one hot day, I rapid fired 4 30 round mags through it, just to see if it would hold up.

Not as hot as full auto perhaps, but still, very hot. I thought it was a pretty good torture test.

The Duracoat passed with flying colors! It looks just like it always did.

While other finishes may be necessary for heavy full auto fire, I don't think it is a problem with the semi autos, especially a shotgun.
 
Quote:
Or you could save money with a can of black Duplicolor wheel paint. It's every bit as durable as duracoat.

So, and you've tested this scientifically how? The military has accepted Duracoat as a Mil-Spec coating, but has somehow missed DupliColor. End quote

When did the military accept duracoat as a mil-spec coating? I know that Polane is an accepted Mil-Spec coating for things like bulldozers and dump trucks, etc. but not duracoat...even though it's the same thing. Duracoat IS Polane. It's re-packaged and the price increased. The last I knew, no military in the world uses Polane for any small arms.

I have never heard of any published independant lab tests of duracoat. Several years ago, when L/W started pushing duracoat, one of their salesman contacted me and wanted me to use it and endorse it. I was interested so I asked a few questions like:
How does it hold up to being soaked in Acetone? (I use lots of Acetone to clean oil stains off of freshly refinished firearms)
How does it hold up to a salt water spray? (I get asked that by boaters)
How does it hold up to auto brake cleaner spray? (Lots of people use brake, carb and electrical cleaner sprays)
How does it hold up to aviation fuel? (I have been asked that three times by Alaskan hunting guides)

The salesman had no answers because duracoat as a firearm finish has never been tested against those things by any lab. (At least none that was ever published!) He just kept saying: Try it. You'll love it! I decided not to use duracoat.

There are other finishes available that have more back ground information avalable....Duplicolor for one!

Duracoat as a firearms finish has two inherent problems: It can not be applied to close tolerance moving parts because it is to thick and will interfere with movement. It will not burnish to an acceptable fit. Now, this isn't an issue on exterior parts but it's a major issue for internal parts. Even if duracoat is as resistant to adverse weather as they claim, what good does it do if the firearm rusts up from the inside out?

I expect to take a lot of heat for my comments and that's fine. However, please mix a few facts in with the heat. Stuff like the Mil-Spec number, independent lab test links, etc. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
 
So Mac's, let me get this right, you are denigrating Duracoat finishes in favor of a coating that you are selling? Have I got that right?
I guess that makes sense to you.

I'll just continue using Duracoat, in spite of it's deficiencies, because it works for me and it's affordable.


NCsmitty
 
No, I am not denigrating duracoat in favor of a finish that I'm selling. I don't sell any finish at all! Let me repeat that! I do NOT sell any type of finishes at all. Not for guns, not for boats, not for knives, nothing!

I only sell the application of the finish! I own the compnay that applies the finish but I still have to buy the finish from the manufacturer. Also, if you read my post again, I didn't put down duracoat. It's a perfect finish......for some things. And those things do not include the internals of firearms.

The only two things that I "put down" about duracoat are the quality of that particular salesperson and the advertsing. The advertising is misleading. "It's the best". Show me the independant lab tests! "No surface prep required. Just clean it and spray it on". Sure and the checks in the mail! "The first finish designed for firearms". Not even close! Gunkote has been around a LOT longer. Sherwin Williams designed Polane for dump trucks, etc. Not guns! Keep yer powder dry, Mac.

Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
 
I have no scientific proof to anything I am about to say, just my own experience.

Duracoat works well for what it was intended to do. It is a firearm finish. Get it paint for a gun. Thats really all it is. But it looks really good and is really easy to apply :)

BBQ Black, both Krylon and Duplicolor work as well as Duracoat, with the added easy of touching it up if chipped or scratched. Just buff the damaged area and re-spray, no need to redo the entire firearm. BTW the Krylon looks just like dark Parkerizing. The Duplicolor is just a shade too black. This is possibly the cheapest and easiest finish possible.
 
Whew-it's getting hot in here.

I decided on the Duracoat becasue I actually want a somewhat shiny finish. I've also ready MANY more positive reviews than negative. I agree that the ability to touch up a spraypaint finish is a major plus (that I hadn't thought of), but I would still like to try the DC to see how durable it really is. I'll have to publish a review here when I get around to actually spraying the gun.

BTW-I posted another thread concerning the temps reached by a S-12 if anyone is interested. http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=462138

It seems as though DC is the RemOil of gun finishes. There are cheaper products that do just as well, and possibly even cheaper ways to get basically the same product, but for the small amount you will need, why not give it a shot? You know that at a minimum, you'll get a product that will work, even if it costs more than it should; at best it will be the best thing since detachable box magazines.
 
i've duracoated 3 guns (1 cobalt blue, 1 magpul foliage green, 1 magpul coyote tan) and had fantastic results. no complaints at all. however, i've never duracoated the barrel. i always leave it the way it came.
 
If you duracoat, DON'T use Ed's Red (with acetone) as a cleaner. Stick to Hoppe's, whichever way you pronounce it.
 
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Duarcoat as duarcoat is $350 + a gallon if I'm readin the web site correctly. Duracoat as Polane is $150 or less a gallon. I use Gunkote as the resin part of the finish in our Tuff-Gun finish and it's $155 a gallon. Yes, there are lot's of finishes that are cheaper than duracoat! A few of them have longer and more honorable track records but none of them have the huge advertising budget of duracoat. Maybe that helps to explain the price difference.

Duracoat has lot's of color's available and does not require forced hot air curing. We use Gunkote 2400 and it does require forced hot air curing but it doesn't require mixing.

Lot's of people have many different firearms and use them for different purposes. If duracoat meets your requirements, good for you. Use it! Not everyone needs for their weapons to be able to withstand days of being submerged in salt water like the Navy Seals do. (They were the first military users of Gunkote) Most people don't carry their weapons for days on end thru the bush like the South African Military. (They use Gunkote) Most gun owners don't clean their personal firearms in the solvent tank like I do. No, I don't have to worry about the finish melting off because...you guessed it! I use Gunkote on all of my personal firearms.

I just don't like duracoat but honestly, that's mostly because of the advertising. I guess it has it's place in the firearms finishing industry...as long as that place isn't on the sear or hammer or trigger or bolt or extractor or breech block or or...well, heck! What good is a protective finish if it won't protect the innards too? Keep yer powder dry, Mac.

Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
 
"Forced hot air curing" is a HUGE turnoff for the average gun enthusiast. But for a professional, it isn't a problem. Neither is a paint booth to shoot the stuff without worry of contaminants. I for one won't do ANY "baking" on my guns. Too many good products that DON"T need it.

Also, the average gun nut won't need a GALLON of this stuff! I bought the little jars of a few colors and 5 guns later haven't finished a single color. Some colors I haven't even opened yet!

To Tuff Gun Finishes. I appreciate your input. But if you want credibility in this argument, give DC a try and let us know how the stuff holds up to all your questioned concerns. That would be a HUGE help to us and you too. Just because military outfits don't use an item, doesn't mean it is the "best" stuff out there! Everyone knows it goes to the lowest bidder that meets a set of requirements. lol

Personally, I was encourage by Duracoats advertising. Read their FAQ section. They are humble about their finish. They don't claim it will hold up to MG fire (but their other line of finishes do), to rock chips from DROPPING your rifle down a hillside, or any other EXTREME condition. What they DO offer is a durable, easy to apply, finish that works as advertised and in my experience has been freakin' strong!.

If it doesn't hold up to heavily caustic solvents or blasting media, does it mean it's junk? Or just living within the bounds or reality?

Justin
 
Roccobro
Yes, forced air curing done the right way is a lot of extra work for the guy that only wants to refinish a couple of firearms. No, you don't need to by a gallon for just a couple of guns. Gunkote comes in pints for about the same price as duracoat. By the way: I'm just using Gunkote as an example because I'm familiar with how it works.

Regarding credibilty in this discussion: I don't have to try it to know that it wont meet my requirements.
1...I can't use it for any internals or close tolerance moving parts.
2...It wont stand up to Acetone, aviation fuel, mineral spirits,pool chlorine, etc. These aren't exotic "heavily caustic solvents"...just things that firearms finished come into contact with once in a while.
3...It won't burnish on moving parts.
4...It costs more than Gunkote.

Yes, I've read their FAQ's. The only one that told me what it would withstand is the one pertaining to salt water. All it says is "well suited". No exposure tests, nothing! Seems pretty thin. Even Duplicolor list better specifications and test results than that.

No, I've never applied duracoat on any of my personal firearms or any of our Customer's firearms. I need to be able to have confidence in the finish. I need to be able to answer the question from the Customer like: Will this finish hold up to aviation fiuel de-icers? (Yes) Or, how will this finish hold up to a combined exposure of Sodium Hypochlorite vapors and Sodium Chloride?
(100% un-affected) (By the way: Yes, I have been asked those same questions several times) No, I haven't used duracoat but I sure have removed a lot of it! I love that stuff!! Keep yer powder dry, Mac.

Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
 
Sorry for the slow response...
Yes it was personal experience,

When I cleaned my Vz82 with Ed's Red (acetone formula), it started to eat the issue plastic grips, which is why I went to wood grip replacements. The Ed's Red also stripped some of the existing finish, which led me to having the pistol Duracoated. I figured out at that point the Ed's Red was too harsh for the gun, and I went back to Hoppes. But I did use Ed's Red as a remover to get the duracoat overspray off the feed ramp, the barrel, and inside the mag well.
 
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