Can a Crack in the slide be repaired/welded?

[Analogkid]

I Recently Purchased a little Astra cub 2000 in 22 short..It has a very small crack on the left side of the slide. It is located at the hold open catch and about .090" long.

It had the crack when I purchased it but I did not know how hard it would be to find another slide...

I scribed a small line on the end of the crack with a straightedge and fired the pistol with modern Remington 22shorts I have a Bullet box and armed with a heavy leather welding glove and a arm stuck around a concrete wall.. I fired the Cub a total 30 times.

Fortunately the crack hasn't grown but I want to see if it can at least be welded.

I have been told that maybe someone fat thumbed the safety lever while it was cycling a round and it caught the hold open latch and that's how the crack formed? I'm not sure?

Anyone think it can be fixed? Sorry for the bad pic. It's very hard to see and feel the crack even with a fingernail. It show's up alright enough in the pic though.

 

[rcmodel]

Conceivably, a real good welder could TIG it and get it to hold.

The only thing is, if it doesn't hold, or the welding crystallizes the slide metal around the weld?

You could be wearing the back half of the slide sticking out of your right eye socket.

To me, it just isn't worth the risk, even if it is just a little .22.

rc

 

[Jim K]

I think it safe to say that nothing anyone did with the slide stop caused that crack.

First, check that it really is a crack, and not a scratch. Then, if it is a crack, drill a hole right at the end of the crack so that the crack won't go any further. I would not advise welding for the reasons already given.

If you want to replace the slide, Gun Parts Corp (www.gunpartscorp.com) did list the slide in my older catalog (under the Colt Junior), Part No. 56431, at $115.00.

Those guns are fairly common, under both the Astra and the Colt names, so if you like it (mine is a fun plinker) you should be able to locate one on the internet for not much more than the slides go for.

Jim

 

[luvit]

i'd replace it. my slide cost $45 NIB.
the crack may not gradually grow.. it may just break-free, instantly.
slides won't taste good when they bust through your teeth.

 

[Analogkid]

I think it safe to say that nothing anyone did with the slide stop caused that crack.

First, check that it really is a crack, and not a scratch. Then, if it is a crack, drill a hole right at the end of the crack so that the crack won't go any further. I would not advise welding for the reasons already given.

If you want to replace the slide, Gun Parts Corp (www.gunpartscorp.com) did list the slide in my older catalog (under the Colt Junior), Part No. 56431, at $115.00.

Those guns are fairly common, under both the Astra and the Colt names, so if you like it (mine is a fun plinker) you should be able to locate one on the internet for not much more than the slides go for.

Jim

I have sent a email off to Numrich maybe they actually have one in stock.
The prices on these things have skyrocketed. The colts and astras in either 22s or 25 cannot be had anywhere near $100. Hopefully Numrich actually emails me back.

I thought I had all of the parts I needed for this thing when I made a order through bobs gun parts after trying to get a hold of him for a week. I finally got a email saying they haven't had the parts for years and they just haven't removed them from the list.

 

[Sun Tzu warrior]

Quote Kid "have been told that maybe someone fat thumbed the safety lever while it was cycling a round and it caught the hold open latch and that's how the crack formed? I'm not sure?" If that happened the bevel would have just forced the safety lever (and his thumb) down. Don't really matter though how, just that it is. If you can find someone who can magnaflux cylinder heads, they can tell you positively if it is a crack or just a scratch. Keep looking eventually you will find another slide. I think I saw a parts kit that included one on gun broker a few weeks ago, from wild buffalo, the parts kit guys. Astra cub, Astra cub 2000,colt Jr. and maybe even Astra firecat. It will be worth the wait. Mine is a great little firearm, and suprisingly accurate for a 2 inch barrel!
Good Luck!

 

[beeenbag]

what is the slide made of? I'm not particularly familiar with this firearm. If it is stainless, yes it can be done using careful measures not to stress the base metals around the immediate weld area. Carbon steel, can be done, just takes a little more effort to not effect the base metals. If it is some sort of alloy, I wouldn't try it.

I will say this, just because something CAN be done... doesn't mean it should be done.

Unless you are an experienced welder with the proper equipment to perform this, you will not come out ahead paying someone to do it. You would be better served buying a new slide. If it is stainless or carbon, and you are a welder, PM me and I can tell you how to properly weld it.

 

[rcmodel]

It is carbon steel.

Astra never made any stainless Cubs when they were still in business and making anything.

rc

 

[beeenbag]

Well, if it's carbon it can be done. That doesn't mean it is the best option unless you are an experienced welder, knowing the op asked the question in the first place, I'm going to assume he is not. In such case, hiring a welder to prep, heat treat and weld, then stress relieve the welded area, will be costly.

 

[GLOOB]

Then, if it is a crack, drill a hole right at the end of the crack so that the crack won't go any further.

+1. Why overcomplicate it.

 

[Sav .250]

Not a pressure point. Two things .Fire it but keep an eye out for any change. Second option, the proper welding process will take care of the problem.

 

[rcmodel]

I'd say it is a pressure point, or it wouldn't have cracked there.

It is a result of the slide dust cover slamming into the frame and stopping rearward slide movement every shot.

The take-down notch just acted as a stress riser, and the crack started at the weakest point where the slide was flexing every shot.

If it breaks clear off, the rear of the slide is free to continue to the rear and fly off the gun at full speed.

rc

 

[hipoint]

Listen to RC on this one, the other fellas aren't "wrong" but there's no reason to take a chance on it.

Welding will destroy any temper that the metal has and it will have to be re-tempered, problem is it will be hard to figure out what their "proper" temper should be for this slide...

Drilling the hole like was mentioned would be the "best" DIY fix, but I would not personally trust it after this, you don't know what kind of other problems are there but can't be seen... A new slide is by far the only "safe" option...

stay vigilant on looking for parts, I've had a few cheap rifles/shotguns that needed various things, eventually found parts for all of them. Keep looking, I have had the best luck with the people who have the "worst" websites, ended up being older smiths who didn't care a whole lot about the internet but a whole shop full of obsolete and out of production parts.

 

[BBBBill]

...I think I saw a parts kit that included one on gun broker a few weeks ago, from wild buffalo, the parts kit guys...

That's WIDEBUFFALO. Good source!

Dang, I still misspelled it. It is WIDEBUFFALLO. Strange spelling, but you have to get it right to find the right seller.

 

[Sun Tzu warrior]

Hey Kid, There are a couple of parts for this model on GB http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=330600551
You may want to contact them and see if they happen to have the slide.

Yes Bill, Wide Buffalo like you said great source. They must destroy a lot of receviers!

 

[backbencher]

Physics question - what would be the approximate velocity (& energy) of the slide behind the crack if it departed the pistol, propelled by the recoil of a .22" Short cartridge? I'm quite sure it would suck to be hit, for example, by a cracked Beretta 92 slide. If Analogkid here is wearing proper shooting glasses, would he get any more than a bad bruise, a chipped tooth, & a great story?

 

[fletcher]

Another vote for replacing the slide. I definitely wouldn't attempt a weld repair without re-heat treatment and getting a nice surface finish on all affected areas.

While drilling a hole will reduce the stress concentration at the end of the crack, without knowing the actual stress state, it could be risky to drill an appropriately sized hole with the expectation that it will continue to work. If going that route, the slide should be visually inspected no less often than every shooting session to ensure the crack has not resumed.

All from a safety perspective.