Can you drill a receiver for a scope with a handheld dill?

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The problem with currently avaliable sks mounts is that they have to be removed to properly clean the rifle and lose their zero everytime. That is why i am exploring a drilled and tapped option. If everyone who wanted to do something was talked out of learning how to do something nothing would get done! I wish people would stop telling me what idea it is and instead provide tangable advice to actually drill.and tap something!!! If you just want to say how hard it is move on to the next topic.
 
Yes, the drill will wander and it may (in fact it almost is gauranteed to with a small drill) start the hole offset from the spindle axis.
Click to expand...

That is why you spot the hole (especially on a curved surface) with a centering drill bit first.

The very short stiff tip prevents wander.
 
I wish people would stop telling me what idea it is and instead provide tangable advice to actually drill.and tap something!!! If you just want to say how hard it is move on to the next topic.
Click to expand...

Let me just say that in my experience some projects are best not to attempt at the entry level.

OK............I'll move along.
 
That is why i am exploring a drilled and tapped option. If everyone who wanted to do something was talked out of learning how to do something nothing would get done! I wish people would stop telling me what idea it is and instead provide tangable advice to actually drill.and tap something!!! If you just want to say how hard it is move on to the next topic.
Click to expand...
No one has any objection with you learning how to do something. It's your methodology that's the problem. THIS CAN'T BE DONE PROPERLY IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE CORRECT TOOLS. The proper tools will cost a good bit more than the gun did. A drill press is NOT the proper tool without a jig to target the receiver - you will create a piece of scrap steel by trying to do it this way. There are NO good shortcuts here!

Is that plain enough?

You come and ask a question, don't like the answers, and then want to argue about it when you get answers from people that DO know how this needs to be done to prevent that from happening.
 
mookiie,
You have me posting on two forums on this. No wonder I get confused
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4976433#post4976433

I have drilled and tapped a lot of different guns.
It seems like an easy task, but hard to explain.

The holes in the mount have a size. The screws that came with the mount have a size. The differnece between the two is the clearance, which is how much error you can have in hole placement.

But... if the holes do not line up, you could round file or drill out a hole in the mount to be bigger, until it fits.

But... if the holes line up, but the scope does not line up with the point of impact, you have more troubles than ever. Swiss cheese is what we call drilling lots of holes because some did not work out.

I have bought a lot of half sporterized Mausers that the problem was the sights would never line up with the point of impact. I look at those rifles for parts.
 
Clark sorry about that.
For the time being I plan to practice, my drilling and tapping technique. Can you recommend any material at a hardware store that is close to receiver steel? I have a Drill bit number 28 and tap 8-40 so I believe I am fine as these should match the mount screws. I had planned to use a laser bore sighter and clamp the mount and scope to the receiver and try and line up on laser bore sighter point of impact. Could you recommend any other ways? Again I am dealing with a flat rectangular receiver with the sks so this is possible I believe. Also many people have mentioned breaking the tap, if I do 1 turn clockwise and a 1/4 turn counterclockwise would that be the best method to ensure I do not break the tap?
Thanks,
Sean
 
Fleet - I am asking how to drill and tap a piece of steel. - not the sks reciever I HAVE ALREADY SAID A GUNSMITH WILL BE HANDLING THE SKS - so either read the whole posting or do not post! You keep telling me not to drill the reciever and I have already posted three or four times I will not! So just READ than type for ONCE!
 
Mookie,
The main thing when tapping is to get the tap started STRAIGHT!
Use a tap wrench, and cutting oil.
Take a turn or two then back up. (this should break the chip).
Practice drilling and tapping blind holes using starter taps and bottom taps.
Have Fun !!
 
Zekepa I have a tap wrench and the oil but am not familiar with starter taps/bottom taps could you explain a little?

Someone had said that after they drill the hole they put the tap in the chuck and manually turn, in a drill press, would this be a good idea if you have squared the drill head already?
 
I'm glad this thread was started. I'm fixing to attempt this same procedure using the same mount. This is the plan I have come up with. According to the instructions the mount is to be located 1.5 inches from the rear of the receiver and at a height so that removal of the top cover is possible. After locating these points and marking them on the receiver , I will remove the top cover and clamp the mount in place. The best way to make sure that the mount is level with the bore axis ,that I can think of , is to insert a range rod or indicator rod into the muzzle and place a level on this rod. Then level the receiver off of this. Once the rod and receiver are level I can then level the mount,making sure that I'm at or above the mark made earlier when determining top cover clearance. At this point the bore axis and the scope mount should be level with each other. With the mount clamped to the receiver I will then use a transfer punch of the correct size and center punch the holes. A center drill will then be used to start the holes on my drill press while using the mount as a template. The through holes will be drilled by starting with a smaller bit and increasing in size until desired dia. is achieved. The holes will be tapped using the drill press by inserting the tap in the chuck and turning by hand . Cutting fluid will be used generously for drilling and tapping. Also when tapping , turn the tap .25 to .5 turn and then turn back .
This may not be the correct way to do this operation but it is the best solution I have come up with.
PS I'm not a gunsmith.

The
HOG
 
mookiie said:
Zekepa I have a tap wrench and the oil but am not familiar with starter taps/bottom taps could you explain a little?

Someone had said that after they drill the hole they put the tap in the chuck and manually turn, in a drill press, would this be a good idea if you have squared the drill head already?
Click to expand...

The tap in drill chuck idea is inviting disaster especially with the smaller size taps being discussed.
Look at the top of your tap wrench for a small angled hole.
This hole will accomidate a small 60 degree center which you can chuck up in the drill press to keep the tap/tap wrench straight ASSUMING that nothing moves laterally after you drill the hole.
Usually a starting tap has some taper to it, a bottom tap is full diameter to the business end.
 
blindhog1964,
The top of the SKS receiver is parallel to the
bore, if the receiver is level and the
mount is level you should be good to go.
The height requirement and 1.5" from the
rear is needed for bolt carrier and bolt removal.
I used the same drill press method for tapping
and it works quite well.
I did not use smaller bits because the receiver material
is hardened and the smaller bits break easily.
Good luck with your project.
 
Mookie,
I just thought of an available tap wrench that incorporates a 1/4" dowel pin that you chuck, an correspondind hole in the wrench making the set up "free floating"in the vertical direction.
 
Zeke do you know where a tap wrench like that could be found? I checked on Midwayusa.com but did not see it. What should I search for? Do you know a brand name?

Thanks
 
Check out the Midway offering by clicking on the link.
$54.00 and change is steep.
Do you have any Machinist/toolmaker friends?
 
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I've done some sight mounting recently using a 17" drill press. Before even deciding to use the drill press, I checked the chuck runout. Further, I did a test drill in a piece of scrap steel I had then stuck the drill shank in the hole to check for oversize/runout. Before drilling the receiver, I find a inconspicuous spot inside the receiver and check if for hardness with a jeweler's file. If the file bites, I'm good to go. If the file skids, I consider it too hard. I align the sight base using squares or levels and clamp the base in position with parallel clamps. I then mark the holes with a transfer punch. Mcmaster has a good assortment of these. I deepen the transfer punch marks with a prick punch. I then clamp the receiver in a drill press (which has previously been verified for squareness with a dial indicator that has been swept in the chuck) using a vise, clamp fixtures or angle plate as necessary. The holes are located with a centerfinder in the drill chuck against the previously punched hole centers. I start drilling with a center drill then follow up with the appropriate tap drill. Then I tap the hole using a Starrett 93 T handle tap wrench that is piloted by an appropriate sized drill shank in the drill chuck. Each hole in drilled and tapped this way before moving on to the next hole. No problems so far except for a commercial Mauser with a bridge that had a variation in hardness. I was able to tap one hole but the second hole is just too hard. When I send it off for bluing, I will have the gunsmith tap the hole for me since he is familiar with the spot annealing procedure required. drilltapmauser.jpg
 
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