Have you made a decision? I didn't see you post anything else except this and the OP.Thank you all for your help.
Thanks again.
Jim
What he said and I'd prefer an older 4" 586. In a new gun, I'd take a 6" blued GP, have it cut back to 5" (hate the slanted underlug), fitted with a Weigand interchangeable front sight system, slicked up, polished and reblued.If you're looking at new, current production revolvers, I'd rather have the GP100.
If you're looking at used, I'd rather have a pre-MIM, pre-lock Smith and Weson 586 or 686.
Just curious...how are you breaking these pins? And can't any gunsmith repair your hammer-mounted pin? I've done a lot of dry firing with my Security-Six and never had a problem. The GP-100 and SP-101 are probably just as tough.I have just broken my fifth S&W firing pin. I have broken four frame mounted firing pins and one hammer mounted pin. The hammer pin is going to be very difficult to replace since S&W has made them obsolete.
Well, not really.Smith's are forged. Ruger's are cast. nuf said
Smith's are forged. Ruger's are cast. nuf said
Jaymo,If you're looking at new, current production revolvers, I'd rather have the GP100.
If you're looking at used, I'd rather have a pre-MIM, pre-lock Smith and Weson 586 or 686.
I have a 586-no dash and a GP100.
Both are excellent revolvers.
The Smith has a LOT better factory trigger.