Can you help me decide
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tomrkba
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I am going through this right now: S&W or Ruger. (My actual answer is to keep both).
The answer comes down to how much you're going to practice, with and without ammunition. I have just broken my fifth S&W firing pin. I have broken four frame mounted firing pins and one hammer mounted pin. The hammer pin is going to be very difficult to replace since S&W has made them obsolete.
I have dry fired as much with the Ruger and have yet to break a pin on AZOOM Snap-Caps. I do not know what they are doing different, but their pins seem to hold up much better. As a result, I am cutting my S&W dry fire to nearly nothing and training with Rugers. I will acquire another Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan, but I'll definitely keep my 629.
That said, if you can work on your revolver, then you will be better off. The GP100 is very easy to take apart and work on. The S&W is a bit more involved. You'll be much better off if you can do basic work yourself since revolvers are not as tough as everyone says they are. We're really trading one set of problems for another set...and many are operating without knowledge about the revolver platform. The good news is there are many DVD's available so you can learn to work on both brands of revolver.
The answer comes down to how much you're going to practice, with and without ammunition. I have just broken my fifth S&W firing pin. I have broken four frame mounted firing pins and one hammer mounted pin. The hammer pin is going to be very difficult to replace since S&W has made them obsolete.
I have dry fired as much with the Ruger and have yet to break a pin on AZOOM Snap-Caps. I do not know what they are doing different, but their pins seem to hold up much better. As a result, I am cutting my S&W dry fire to nearly nothing and training with Rugers. I will acquire another Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan, but I'll definitely keep my 629.
That said, if you can work on your revolver, then you will be better off. The GP100 is very easy to take apart and work on. The S&W is a bit more involved. You'll be much better off if you can do basic work yourself since revolvers are not as tough as everyone says they are. We're really trading one set of problems for another set...and many are operating without knowledge about the revolver platform. The good news is there are many DVD's available so you can learn to work on both brands of revolver.
Bobson
Member
Have you made a decision? I didn't see you post anything else except this and the OP.
I like the 686 over the GP-100, but for hunting I'd definitely take the Ruger Blackhawk. I've always wanted a single-action revolver, and aside from recreational range use or cowboy action shooting, hunting non-dangerous game is close to being the ideal use for one, IMO. I voted other with the Ruger Blackhawk in mind.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
What he said and I'd prefer an older 4" 586. In a new gun, I'd take a 6" blued GP, have it cut back to 5" (hate the slanted underlug), fitted with a Weigand interchangeable front sight system, slicked up, polished and reblued.
That said, I'd still rather have a single action.
Confederate
Member
Just curious...how are you breaking these pins? And can't any gunsmith repair your hammer-mounted pin? I've done a lot of dry firing with my Security-Six and never had a problem. The GP-100 and SP-101 are probably just as tough.
On Smiths, do you think the hammer-mounted pins are just as durable on the Smiths or are you just snapping the frame-mounted pins more often? Did the hammer-mounted pin actually break?
Bobson
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Beautiful gun, Craig. 
just for fun
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Smith's are forged. Ruger's are cast. nuf said
hAkron
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I would have no qualms about buying an MIM (686-5 or 686-6) S&W 686. A few bonuses that the later 686's (-4,-5,-6 versions) have over the GP-100 - more grip choices, more barrel length choices, factory drilled and tapped for scope mount, and the option for a 7 shot version. On the used market the price for either, at least in these parts, is about the same.
CraigC
Sixgun Nut
Well, not really.
hAkron
Member
Either is more than enough for the task. Most would argue that Ruger has the edge in frame strength because the frame is one continuous piece rather than employing a side plate.
I voted for the S&W, but I have a few of each and think they are both great. If I HAD to pick one it would be the 686.
I voted for the S&W 686. I'm a huge fan of the gun and feel that the trigger/action as well as the overall feel of the gun is superior to the Ruger. I had the good fortune of finding an 8-round Performance Center V Comp which just absolutely makes my day.
But if you plan to use the gun only for hunting backup as you say, it would seem wise to go with a 629 4" in .44 mag. Way more power thus a better choice for a hunting backup. A tougher follow-up shot challenge, but both the .357 and the .44 mags require practice for the shots number 2 through n.
Best of luck,
B
But if you plan to use the gun only for hunting backup as you say, it would seem wise to go with a 629 4" in .44 mag. Way more power thus a better choice for a hunting backup. A tougher follow-up shot challenge, but both the .357 and the .44 mags require practice for the shots number 2 through n.
Best of luck,
B
I think a 6" GP or a pre-lock 686 would be fine. They are both built to handle the heavy loads like the ones offered by "Buffalo Bore".
I voted for the GP for a couple reasons. I really like the easy take down for cleaning. No side screws coming loose, and the grip options are unlimited due to the peg style grip frame. I also like the plunger release front sight mounting system. You can change the front sight in about 15 seconds. This can also used for a scope mount without drilling and tapping.
I recently purchased a 4" GP100 and swapped out the front sight to fiber optic in just a few seconds. Once the snow comes I will probably swap it back to the black sight.
Here is a pic of my new GP. So far I really like it.
I voted for the GP for a couple reasons. I really like the easy take down for cleaning. No side screws coming loose, and the grip options are unlimited due to the peg style grip frame. I also like the plunger release front sight mounting system. You can change the front sight in about 15 seconds. This can also used for a scope mount without drilling and tapping.
I recently purchased a 4" GP100 and swapped out the front sight to fiber optic in just a few seconds. Once the snow comes I will probably swap it back to the black sight.
Here is a pic of my new GP. So far I really like it.
Jaymo,
So with work, will the Ruger trigger match the S&W? I inherited my GP100 and it has already had much trigger work done.
Can you add to this question? Sorry to OP for slight hijack but I think this question may also be of interest to you.
Hokkmike
Member
They are both GOOD. So why not buy Ruger and save the extra money for ammo?
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