Can't get the .380 just right....

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cessnaking370

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I just finished testing my second batch of .380 reloads. I am new to reloading and I made a test batch with 100g FMJ with W231 and Federal Primers. It worked fine with a light load of only 2.3grains (did not want to blow my hand off). I made a second batch today with 3.0g and there was a noticable different in performance. However, it still fired a little weaker than a factory load and I got key-hole points of impact which makes me think the round is not stabilizing. Has anyone else had this issue? Advice? I am thinking the powder is not quite enough, but figured I would ask before I go for broke.....

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My load book lists 2.8 grains as the minimum load (750 fps) and 3.7 as the max (1000 fps) for those 100 grainers and W231.

Try bumping your charge up a few grains. I'd imagine factory rounds are probably between 900 and 1000 fps.
 
work your way up from 3.0 to 3.1, 3.2, etc until you find the load you like. A lot of factory ammo is loaded hotter than what the reloading guides call out...that is cause no company wants to be sued for some idiot hurting themself.
 
"...until you find the load you like..." Um, no. Follow your manual religiously.
"...makes me think the round is not stabilizing..." Like NCsmitty says, you're way below minimum.
 
I got key-hole points of impact which makes me think the round is not stabilizing. Has anyone else had this issue?
Apparent key-holing has been discussed here several times and in every case it wasn't key-holing at all. Are you using a solid backing behind your target or are you using a paper target that hangs free? In all the other instances what was happening was the target was hanging free and was being "pushed" by the bullet before it broke through the paper giving the appearance of a key-hole round. Placing a solid backing behind the target showed it wasn't happening. I hope this is the case for you because the load you are using shouldn't be causing the bullet to key-hole.

Welcome to the forum...
 
Exactly right on the unsupported paper target...quite common and potentially distressing until one figures out it is the paper target! BTDT.
 
I am firing out of a Bersa Thunder 380 DLX. My two manuals say a min of 2.3 and a max of 3.1 and 3.5 for W231. The paper target was nailed down to a flattened out card board box. The Winchester factory ammo I shot worked fine. I loaded up a mag of reload and factory. The reloads definitely felt light when fired and made the key hole. Factory worked and printed fine. Thanks for the help guys....
 
I shoot the Hornady 100gr FMJ-Encapsulated bullets extensively in my Bersa 95 and Beretta 84. I've found that a COL of .960" works reliably in both. What COL are you using?

Since a factory 95gr FMJ produces about 950fps (190 ft-lbs), I like to load these to about 925 fps to duplicate the energy of the standard factory load. Unfortunately I don't use W231/HP38, but have found that 3.2gr of AA#2, 2.7gr of VV N310, 3.4gr of VV N320, 3.7gr of VV N330, and 3.9gr of Unique all provide this level of performance.
 
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I haven't loaded .380 in years, but used AA #2 when I did. 95 Gr RN and 88 Gr HP's.
 
Welcome, Cessnaking370!

W231(HP38) is one of my better powders in 380. VihtaVuori N320 is the best I've found. I'm sure you'll find your load using W231. Get published data from several different manufacturers. Peruse them and compare data before making your decisions.

You jumped from 2.3 grains to 3.0 grains. Wow! Thats not an incremental increase, that's a leap across the canyon. After 40 years of reloading, I never change powder charge more than 2 or 3 tenths during load development.

If your pistol keyholes a particular bullet, try a slower powder. Some pistol barrels like to build up the pressure slowly. This is especially effective for 380/9mm/38Special but it works for larger calibers too. It doesn't work for magnum calibers, which already use slow powders.

Do you have books on reloading? Lyman, Hornady, Lee, Sierra, Speer, Nosler or ABC's of Reloading? Get at least two of these, plus powder and bullet manufacturer's yearly loading brochures, plus the online addresses for the powder manufacturers: Hodgdon, Alliant, Accurate, VV, etc.
 
test batch with 100g FMJ
Berry plated bullets by chance?

Most .380 bullets are 88, 90, or 95 grain. Your longer 100 grain bullet may need more speed to stabilize.

rc
 
Most .380 bullets are 88, 90, or 95 grain. Your longer 100 grain bullet may need more speed to stabilize.

I think rcmodel is on the money, but I will not say to exceed the Maximum that Hodgdon lists on their site. That will be your decision.
A quicker solution might be to try a lighter bullet weight.


NCsmitty
 
Yea they are Berry bullets. I have a Lee, Lyman, and generic manual that I got with my Dillon press. The 2.3g I started was to make sure I was pressing them correctly. All three manuals (for most powders) list anywhere between 3.0-4.0. The Lee manual does not have 231 specifically in it. I am going to load a few at 3.1, 3.2, 3.3 etc...up to 3.5 and see how each perform. Unless anyone has a better idea? The hodgon site say max of 3.1. Would the performance vary so much from a 1gn difference?
 
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My load book lists 2.8 grains as the minimum load (750 fps) and 3.7 as the max (1000 fps) for those 100 grainers and W231.

Try bumping your charge up a few grains. I'd imagine factory rounds are probably between 900 and 1000 fps.

I think you MEANT to say "Try bumping your charge up a few TENTHS of a GRAIN!"
A FEW GRAINS WOULD ONLY BE OFF THE CHARTS.
 
Not enough velocity or pressure in a .380 to matter as long as you don't blow up the gun.

rc
 
Berry bullets are dead soft lead under the thin copper plating. I found that for 9MM, 38spl and 45 ACP the load data for cast lead (or swaged lead if available) still barely got expected velocity.

I think the bullets are so soft compared to either true jackets or hardcast that they just don't build the pressure up as much.
 
Failure to acheive published velocity may not be a bullet selection issue.

Published data is generally the result of carefully controlled lab tests. They typically utilize universal receivers with test barrels. Field conditions often make it very challenging to match 'expected velocities' as achieved in the lab.

At least in my limited experience.
 
ants:

Agree completely, however IME plated bullets fall short by a noticeably greater margin than other types.
 
Not enough speed, and wrong bullets for the speed.

FMJ are best, I have used 3.3grs with 100gr bullets with success not with Berry's bullets though.

As for a lighter bullet......I've shot 115gr Sierra HPs with nothing but good results. The
little buggers even expand enough to use as SD ammo.
 
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