Case gauge issues with coated bullets

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Jeeptech3

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i have reloaded a couple thousand xtreme plated 124 grn fp with no issues from my XDM osp. I recently switched to blue bullets specifically 125 grn rn. Since the switch I have had a couple failures to go into battery and the round getting stuck in the chamber. So I bought a shock bottle case gauge to see if that was the problem and I am experiencing about a 10% failure rate of passing the gauge.

Since weeding out the failed rounds I have not had any failures when shooting. I am sure the issue is because I backed off the crimp due to not wanting to break the coating. I have lee does in a xl650 and the fcd is screwed all the way possible into the toolhead. My question is how do you guys adjust the crimp to pass the case gauge but not break the coating?

I am using mixed brass and there is no commonality between the failed rounds. I have ran failed rounds through the fcd a second time with no help. Any ideas?
 
The degree of crimp is adjusted by how far down the knob on the top of the die is turned in. The proper setting for this die is with the adjustment knob turned all the way up, turn the die into the press until it touches the shell plate or shell holder which should be in the raised position. Then, raise an empty case into the die and begin to turn the knob inward until you feel it stop on the top of the case. Another 1/2 turn will apply a good crimp and you can adjust from there to suit your specific need. http://leeprecision.net/support/ind.../View/112/0/carbide-factory-crimp-explanation
 
My question is how do you guys adjust the crimp to pass the case gauge but not break the coating?
I've never worried about it as a taper crimp is unlikely to "break" the coating; that is really more of a roll crimp issue. If you over crimp, what you're likely to do is compress the bullet which will reduce neck tension
 
A 9mm "crimp" will likely be around .378-.379. This will work fine without cutting into the coating and shouldn't cause any case gauge issues.
 
The FCD for pistols does two things, it post sizes the loaded round (Squeezes it down if needed to get back to spec if it is over spec (Too fat), and it crimps. How far down you screw the die body isn't critical, the carbide ring will do its thing. After that is set, then you adjust the crimp with the stem by screwing it in and out.

We do not "crimp" auto calibers to make them fit a gauge or our chamber, we taper "crimp" them to completely remove the flare/belling leftover after seating. The carbide ring usually does 99% of this. Any more and you are squeezing the bullet down and too much of that can cause issues. Plus the round headspaces off of the case mouth, you don't ant to push it in too much. Yea, I know, the extractor will likely hold it and it will fire, jut saying.

Have you done the plunk test with the new bullets in your gun? Might need to.
 
FWIW, when I recently switched to (40 cal) coated bullets for my USPSA gamer load, I found that I literally could not get any rounds to fully seat in my wilson case gauge. In contrast, I had no difficulty getting plated bullets to go into the gauge just fine. I chased crimp for a while, then figured out that the portion of the bullet profile above the case mouth was just a little too thick for the way the gauge is cut.... yet had no difficulty plunking. No amount of crimp changed this. If you have a very tight gauge, it's possible that the extra thickness of the coating is just big enough to cause difficulty in the last 1/10 inch of going into the gauge.
 
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