Case Head Separation Signs?

[Tempus Tom]

I recently fired some of my 223 reloads in a brand a new Ruger AR-15. While they all shot well and properly fed/cycled the rifle, it looks like I have a problem.

I've never had a case head separate and am not sure if that's what almost happened here. When I read about the warning signs of case head separation, the photos used show a ring in the brass near the case head. And the ring on my brass is almost in the middle. Not sure if that's unusual or not.

I used a paper clip to "feel" inside the brass case and I could not feel any deviation. Nor can I feel anything when sliding my finger nail up and down the outside of the brass.


Your input is appreciated as I'm new to reloading and want to be both successful and safe.

Thank you.


Brass: Once fired Federal 223 that was fully resized (maybe I pushed the shoulder back too far?)
Powder: 25.2 grains of IMR 4166 (Max is listed at 26.2)
Primer: CCI #41 SRP
Bullet: Hornady 55 grain SP BT
COAL: 2.200 (+/- a couple thousandths)
Rifle: Brand new Ruger MPR 5.56 18" barrel

 

[The Glockodile]

A little too high.

Probably something else.

Also too high for a sizing ring, doesn't look like an in - chamber expansion artifact either...

Not sure what it is, but I'm less inclined to suspect an incipient case head separation.

Do flutes on the side of the Ruger's (metal) magazine correspond to where those lines are?

 

[reloaded_in_pa]

Cut one open and take a look at the inside.

 

[Hooda Thunkit]

When you reload those cartridges, do you store and transport them in a plastic ammo box ?

The sort of box in which each cartridge is separated from the next, in its own slot ? Standing upright?

Is the wall of that slot the same height as the mark on your brass ?

 

[merlynski]

^^^^ Beat me to it
Do you have any unfired ones left? Do they have a ring?

 

[Boomholzer]

Do you have factory loads to exhibit?
Don't take this as faith but it looks more like a step in the chamber cut/reamer. This doesn't make much sense process-wise unless you are highlighting the step and the "other side of the moon" is flush. You could die the brass and FL resize.

Send it back with brass from commercial ammo or what you have with photos. It's a fingerprint from a machining issue IMO. I could be way off, remain safe.

 

[jmr40]

Doesn't look like case head separation to me. Maybe a tooling mark in the chamber? Or sizing die?

 

[mokin]

Those rings look like something else to me. It's good you picked up on it and checked.

Cut one open and take a look at the inside.

Plus one. Brass is cheap, if you don't have a Dremel tool this is an opportunity. You can buy a Dremel and lots of brass for less than a new gun (or worse).

 

[MEHavey]

Paperclip test results?
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com...-brass-to-minimize-case-head-separation-risk/
(sharpen the bent tip, and you'd be amazed at how sensitive this test is at detecting anomalies)

 

[twarr1]

Doesn’t look like head separation to me. + 1 Dremel one in half. That will also inform your paper clip testing.

 

[Ironicaintit]

I’m always leery of fine lines that run around the circumference, no matter where they are.

Cut one in half and analyze it. It’s “probably” fine, but peace of mind is worth one case autopsy.

the paper clip test is a pretty good non-destructive test.
A dim flashlight, pointed up through the flash hole is quite effective too. Interior rings show up positively.

 

[Walkalong]

Paperclip test results?
http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com...-brass-to-minimize-case-head-separation-risk/
(sharpen the bent tip, and you'd be amazed at how sensitive this test is at detecting anomalies)

Yep.

 

[Slamfire]

I am quite certain the picture of a row of cases with case head separations is from a Handloader article on 308 Win case life. Those were fired in a bolt gun.

I have seen a number of 223 cases fired in AR15's, and they do separate higher on the case body. It is probably due to the timing of the action, just when in the pressure curve it starts to unlock. If you want to eliminate this, leave the case lube on after sizing, don't tumble it off. It only takes a tiny amount of lubricant to keep the case front from gripping the chamber, but break that friction and the case will slide to the bolt face without stretching, and with gas guns, won't stretch on extraction.

 

[Blue68f100]

Did you trim the cases using a trimmer that measures off the shoulder, aka Drill press mounted trimmer? Most all leave a mark where the support bushing hits the brass.

If in dought cut 1 open and look. When you use a pick makes sure it has a sharp point. I use dental picks.

Look at your chamber in the gun and see if there is any machining marks that can cause this.

 

[Charlie98]

That looks like a line in the chamber... or as was mentioned, a buff line from storage.

 

[The Glockodile]

Cut!

Cut!

Cut!

Cut!

 

[Walkalong]

Or grind a window in the case like I did in the case above.

 

[Tempus Tom]

UPDATE: I also fired some factory Federal 55 grain 5.56 rounds and they have the same marking on all of the cases. Although, they're a little harder to see. Guess I didn't look close enough before.

Plus, I can see a ring inside my chamber that appears to correlate with the marks on the cases. (photo below)

I still need to Dremel the cases, right? I'll order a Dremel on Amazon today and report back my findings in a couple days.


What should my next steps be? This is something I should contact Ruger about, right? Or is it something I can easily fix? Or is it fine as is?

Thank you.

Oh...Blue68...when I read your post I thought, "That's it!"....but the line doesn't match the exact same spot on the cases. (I trimmed two pieces of brass and then put them side by side with the fired brass). The line locations are super close, but not quite. Great idea, though.

 

[Tempus Tom]

Sorry...forgot to say that my reloads were created on the work bench and then inserted into my Magpul & Hexmag magazines. They were never in a case that would have left a ring on the brass.

Same for the factory ammo. They come in a box/bag of 1,000 loose rounds. And I loaded them straight into magazines before heading to the desert to test fire the new rifle.

Great idea, though.

 

[Nature Boy]

Or grind a window in the case like I did in the case above.

….or stick a bore scope in them like I did….

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/case-head-separation-with-a-lesson-learned.871927/

 

[CoalCrackerAl]

I found some like in the OP the other day. I have them in the tumbler now. I'll see if the markings go away then. It does not go all the way around the casing.

 

[Tempus Tom]

….or stick a bore scope in them like I did….

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/case-head-separation-with-a-lesson-learned.871927/

I just ordered a borescope and off-brand Dremel on Amazon. Should arrive tomorrow night so hopefully I can take a look and report back on Wednesday.

 

[edwardware]

I used a paper clip to "feel" inside the brass case and I could not feel any deviation.

Then it's not an incipient head sep. The sharp paperclip is definitive.

You have an annular ring in your chamber, caused by a chip under a reamer flute, or chipped flute. It won't harm a thing.

 

[CoalCrackerAl]

Tom i think you will enjoy the bore scope. I used mine to inspect all my rifle bores when i got mine. I was surprised how nice the bores were in some of my vintage guns. Gives you a nice feeling to know. That you and if a previous owner applies. That it's been maintained well.

 

[Tempus Tom]

I agree, Coalcracker. I’ve wanted a borescope forever anyways.

I’m interested to see what the inside of my surplus military rifle bores will look like.

Will be fun to take a look.