OK gents. I've been at this reloading stuff for neigh on 45 years, but I have failed to satisfactorily solve one issue--lubing of case necks when neck sizing. Of course it is the inside that is the issue. I've tried all sorts of approaches, but none that I feel real satisfied with. I'd sure like to hear what some of you are doing. Oils/greases/waxes all cause the powder to stick in the neck to some degree, and the dry lubes I've tried just don't get in there very well. There has to be a good, efficient way. Help?
Case Lubrication
- Thread starter moosehunt
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ReloaderFred
Member
What dakotasin said, plus polish the expander to make sizing easier.
Hope this helps.
Fred
Hope this helps.
Fred
USSR
Member
moosehunt,
The solution is to not use a lube on the inside or outside of your necks. Let me explain. You get yourself a set of Redding bushing necksizing dies, remove the decapper and expander ball (remove your spent primers with a Universal Decapping die), and get yourself the proper size TiN bushing. In addition to not having to use any lube whatsoever, you are also working your brass much, much less. It's a win/win situation.
Don
For the inside of the case necks I just use Imperial Sizing die wax. Just put a little dab on my finger and run the case mouth against it at an angle so the inside of the case mouth grabs it. A little dab will do ya and a tiny tin lasts a LOOOONG time. It is possibly a little slower than other methods but it works really well. Replacing your dies is another option I suppose....the Bushing dies, or if I understand correctly the Dillon carbide rifle dies do not require lubing the inside of the case but you sure do pay a pretty penny for them. Hope that helps.
John4me05
Member
I use the RCBS case slick... Roll the batch across the lube pad and then when the batch is lubed roll a neck brush on the pad and brush in and out 1 stroke on the neck.. Then retumble for 20 minutes or so to remove the residue... or tumble a few hours to polish them
ranger335v
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Bushing dies are, IMHO, the least desirable "solution" for all but BR shooters. Why? 'Cause our case necks vary in thickness. That means that when sized in a die without an expander they inside diameters also vary, which changes the bullet tension randomly.
Perhaps the ideal solution would be to use a body die AND a Lee Collet Neck Sizer. The Lee die does not need lube at all and it works the necks only the amount needed as it sizes down to a consistant inside diameter.
Perhaps the ideal solution would be to use a body die AND a Lee Collet Neck Sizer. The Lee die does not need lube at all and it works the necks only the amount needed as it sizes down to a consistant inside diameter.
TooTaxed
Member
I use an un-inked rectangular stamp pad for my full-length case sizing, with a small amount of regular gun oil on it...lay a bunch of cases on it, give a quick one-cartridge roll with the flat of my hand, and go to resizing...nary a stuck case.
For neck sizing, I use the same pad, but simply push the case mouth down onto it. Gets just enough oil for the sizing, but not enough to cause powder problems.
For neck sizing, I use the same pad, but simply push the case mouth down onto it. Gets just enough oil for the sizing, but not enough to cause powder problems.
Thanks for the input. As to Redding bushing dies, I'll be honest, I can't afford 13 new sets of dies! I've tried the Imperial wax method exactly as described, and using a pad of lube touching the ends. These both work from the lubing point, but invariably, grains of powder stick to the lube residue inside the case neck. Maybeso tumbling is a viable answer, but sooooo much hassle and time consuming. Of course I can address the whole issue by incorporating an extra "cleaning" step, but that extra step is what I'd like to eliminate. I'm still listening, guys!!!
Jenrick
Member
I just keep a toothpick handy to poke down the occasional errant piece of powder that sticks to the lube. As far as lube goes I use (yeah go ahead and laugh), lube. Actual store bought "Personal Lubricant," it's water soluble, the only other things in it are basically sugar so it dries to a kinda gooey film that doesn't rust anything and doesn't deactivate primers or powders. A 4 oz bottle is about $1 and will probably last me a decade. It can be thinned to spray or you can just use your fingers and dab it on. Little goes a long way.
I just size, let cases dry over night and then load. If I don't want to go the toothpick route, a quick swipe around the case neck with a cotton swab cleans it out.
-Jenrick
I just size, let cases dry over night and then load. If I don't want to go the toothpick route, a quick swipe around the case neck with a cotton swab cleans it out.
-Jenrick
ADKWOODSMAN
Member
White mica in a 1/2 inch long pill container or something the size of a 35 mm film canister. Put the neck end of the case in the mica to the bottom of the neck, tap the case with your finger so the excess falls out and you are lubed.
Now run the case into the die and sixe.
Now run the case into the die and sixe.
USSR
Member
That's just plain bunk. If I had varying amounts of neck tension, it would surely show up at the 1,000 yards I shoot;it does not. Seating the bullet in the neck does exactly what any mandrel or expander ball does: forces any variation in inside diameter to the outside. This is empirical data, not something gleaned from the internet.
Don
More thanks. The white mica is the one I have settlled on for quite a while. I just was hoping for a method that made it unnecessary to wipe the exterior after sizing, which of course you have to do with the mica. But it works.
I'll answer before someone calls me lazy--yes, you're basically right, though I like to call it being efficient! I was hoping to stumble on to a more efficient method.
I'll answer before someone calls me lazy--yes, you're basically right, though I like to call it being efficient! I was hoping to stumble on to a more efficient method.
More thanks. The white mica is the one I have settlled on for quite a while. I just was hoping for a method that made it unnecessary to wipe the exterior after sizing, which of course you have to do with the mica. But it works.
I'll answer before someone calls me lazy--yes, you're basically right, though I like to call it being efficient! I was hoping to stumble on to a more efficient method.
Me thinks this newly installed system has it's problems, eh. Sorry for the double--I only entered it once.
I'll answer before someone calls me lazy--yes, you're basically right, though I like to call it being efficient! I was hoping to stumble on to a more efficient method.
Me thinks this newly installed system has it's problems, eh. Sorry for the double--I only entered it once.
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snuffy
Member
Much to do about nothing. So what if a couple of chunks of powder adhere to the inside of the neck? Do you think it will stay there? The bullet will push it down into the powder charge.
As long as the lube used is powder/primer safe, it won't hurt a thing. Thats why I use RCBS case slick spray lube. It won't de-activate primers or affect powder, so leave it there.
As long as the lube used is powder/primer safe, it won't hurt a thing. Thats why I use RCBS case slick spray lube. It won't de-activate primers or affect powder, so leave it there.
Basically true, Mr. Snuffy, but I have had several of those grains spill out when I snached 'em out of the block to put in the bullet. Still probably not a big deal, but it just doesn't sit well with me esthetically (either of the two issues).
Hoosier Reloader
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- May 8, 2007
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I use Hornady One Shot spray lube.
mc223
Member
Just for the purpose of example:
6 kernals of H4895 = .01 grain.
I would not worry much if a few kernals fell out. I doubt seriously if yoou would notice it downrange either.
6 kernals of H4895 = .01 grain.
I would not worry much if a few kernals fell out. I doubt seriously if yoou would notice it downrange either.
kennedy
Member
I use a lee collet neck sizing die in .308 and don`t lube, never had any problems
jenrob
Member
I have to agree and disagree with both of these.
Bushing dies are great if you turn the necks or ream the necks.
I wouldn't say they are just for BR shooting, but would say that if you take a ball mic and check the neck thickness on 10 cases you will probably come up with 5 different measurements if not more.
This will cause different neck tension as the bushing die has no expander to push the difference back out.
Now back on the lube I use mica with neck brushes on a forster case neck lubricator. It's nice as the excess drops back into the pad.
Redding (Imperial) has a new deal out this year that has small ceramic media balls that you put you mica into then roll the neck in the media.
Haven't tried it but looks like it might be on my bench before long.
I have also started buying carbide expanders one at a time with each order but still use the mica with them (not needed).
You could try this -
http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=RECLCTCL&item=NLK&type=store
.
http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=RECLCTCL&item=NLK&type=store
.
I’ve wondered about case neck tension and turning necks and bushing dies, but never knew the answer for sure. Seems there are different views so I asked here -
http://www.benchrest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50184
.
stubbicatt
Member
I dissolve a tube of Lee case lube in a water iso alcohol mix in a ration of about 1 to 7. Put it in a spray atomizer bottle. Squirt a few pumps into a ziplock freezer bag, throw in cases, let them roll around awhile in there, and quite a bit gets in the neck.
Spread the cases out on a towel and let them dry. I get no expander ball squeek at all. This is because it is a dry lube with no tack or anything. Powder doesn't bridge in the necks or anything. You can either tumble the cases afterwards, or leave the lube on the cases. They shoot equally well.
Best of all, you can lube up a bunch of cases and store them indefinitely in this condition, ready to go whenever you are. No lint, dirt, or anything sticks to them.
Spread the cases out on a towel and let them dry. I get no expander ball squeek at all. This is because it is a dry lube with no tack or anything. Powder doesn't bridge in the necks or anything. You can either tumble the cases afterwards, or leave the lube on the cases. They shoot equally well.
Best of all, you can lube up a bunch of cases and store them indefinitely in this condition, ready to go whenever you are. No lint, dirt, or anything sticks to them.
That Sinclair dealiobob sounds interesting. The moly, I savvy, but I don't savvy the function of the stainless balls (shot). And I am curious about the statement "good for loading moly bullets" (paraphrased). What has that got to do with lubing case necks for sizing? Anyone out there tried one?
The Lee lube approach doesn't sound too bad, but I'm hoping, praying for ease, simplicity, efficiency. When I get a chance to load, I like to sit down with 50 or a hundred cases and when I get up, have that many loaded rounds, as opposed to doing part today, then waiting for them to dry or whatever. Obviously, when major processes, such as annealling, are in the picture, it doesn't all happen at once.
The Lee lube approach doesn't sound too bad, but I'm hoping, praying for ease, simplicity, efficiency. When I get a chance to load, I like to sit down with 50 or a hundred cases and when I get up, have that many loaded rounds, as opposed to doing part today, then waiting for them to dry or whatever. Obviously, when major processes, such as annealling, are in the picture, it doesn't all happen at once.
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