Case trimming little cases?

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Shinbone

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What case trimmer works with 9mm luger cases for holding them? I have an RCBS Case Trimmer 2 and I just can't seem to adjust the collet to hold them. Is there a different collet or would a different case trimmer work better?
Thanks.
 
I've lost track of how many 9x19 rounds I've loaded, but it's way up there in the many thousands, and I've never trimmed one, ever. I've got about a 5 gallon bucket of 9x19 brass, and I don't intend to trim any of those, either.

I don't know what trimmer would work well for them, since I've never tried it.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I use a Lyman Universal Case Trimmer to cut down 9x19 Luger cases into 9x18 Makarovs, works great. Since I needed to do several hundred, I also bought the optional shaft for the trimmer that you can use a cordless drill on to drive it, rather than the hand crank. The crank works fine, but for the production work of removing a lot of brass from hundreds of cases, the drill-driven shaft is much better. But for basic trimming of cases that are just a tad long, the crank is fine. Mostly rifle, straight-walled pistol cases seldom need to be trimmed.

The Lyman Universal Case Trimmer.....

LymanUniversalCaseTrimmer.gif
 
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Shinbone...Not sure why you would want to trim 9mmX19, but I also have the RCBS Case Trimmer 2. The collet number that is needed for 9mmX19 is RCBS 1.
 
I have never needed to trim small caliber pistol cases.

They usually become too scarred up or split before they get long enough for that.
 
Bottlenecked cases, which enlarge after each firing, need to be trimmed. Straight wall cases, like 9mm, on the opposite, go slightly shorter. There is no need to trim them after firing.
 
Oh now...Don't get too excited here. I, also, trim some pistol/revolver brass. such as .45 ACP, .357 magnum and .38 Special.

Tommyintx...I have a Colt 1911 that just prefers case length of .890" +/-.002". Don't know why, but it might have something to do with head spacing...
 
Many years ago, when I first started reloading, I thought I read that on a straight walled case, since it headspaces on the bullet end of the case, length was critical. (Wouldn't these almost always be a taper crimp and not rolled crimp?) I guess that's what led me to believe case length was important.
 
Yes, on a straight walled auto case one should use a taper and not a roll crimp, because they headspace on the case mouth. The thing is you will seldom, if ever, find a case so short or so long that it is an actual problem.
 
Mr. Bone -
If you'll measure your cases, you'll be hard pressed to find a case at a full 19mm length. Most are .004 to .006 shorter already.

To get accurate roll crimps on revolver cases, equal case lengths within a "reloading group" is critical. This because the amount of roll depends directly upon the length of the case. And equal roll crimps on revolver cartridges means equal pressure within the group. This is critical to revolver accuracy. Therefore, equal roll crimps on revolver ammo are necessary.

But in taper crimp auto cartridges, the case simply gets smooshed though the taper. But the taper crimp DOES NOT retain the bullet in the auto cartridge, therefore the pressure is basically unaffected by taper crimps of varying lengths. Therefore there is little or no need to trim auto cases.

The main reason for taper crimp then is not to retain the bullet or build pressure. It is mainly there to remove the belling and ensure that the case mouth is square with the chamber so that accurate head spacing can occur.

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