Cast Bullet Accuracy 45acp/1911

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bersaguy

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Is there any credence to the notion that cast lead bullets would be considerably more accurate out of a standard 1911? I had not fired any cast bullets until today. I was getting about 2.5" groups at 10 yards using a mix of factory federal, Winchester and my own reloads. I picked up a bag of LRN rounds at a gun show a month or more ago(traded for some 233 brass i had no use for) and these things tore one ragged hole in the target about 1" in diameter. This was at the end of the day, after firing over 200 rounds. Apart from being rather smoky, that was the best shooting of the day.
Just wondering if I need to start casting, or at least start purchasing some lead bullets now. Anyone else notice better accuracy with lead vs plated or jacketed?
 
Although I rarely shoot FMJ bullets because of the cost it's my understanding FMJ bullets are slightly more accurate than cast. The cast bullets I shoot are plenty accurate enough and the cost much less than FMJ. It's a slight trade off for me with economy vs accuracy. The way I look at it is that I can practice a lot more with cast because of the lower cost.
 
I think the majority of Bullseye shooters of the past that shot 45acp used cast 200 H&G 68 boolits. If I looked anywhere for a good sign as what type boolit is most accurate, I would look to them.
 
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I got some 45 cal SWC bullets from Missouri Bullet Company, I forget if they are 200 or 185 grain, but they work well in my Gold Cup.

(I've been dabbling with home cast and Berry plated bullets as well and everything has functioned fine in the Gold Cup but I've slept since I last looked a what bullet is what.:) Trying to decide what shoots best and it is becoming a difficult decision)
 
I have used cast 230 gn RN, 200 gr LSWC, and 185 gr LSWC from Missouri Bullet Company. All fed great and were very accurate out of my Colt National Match. Out of those three bullets, I prefer the 185 gr due to their lesser recoil.
 
200gr LSWC from Penn is what most of the top BE are shooting, or use too. These are know for having a very flat true base. For jacketed I think most have moved to HP's, rule change? I've used MBC BE #1 (200gr) and #2 (185gr). From 25yrds either weight will do good. But if you stretch it out to 50 yrds, the 200gr is the most accurate. I very seldom shoot at 50 yrds with my 1911. When I built it in 2013, I did some accuracy testing at 50 yrds. 4.1 - 4.2 gr of WST with the 200 gr MBC #1 yield me < 2" groups at 50 yrds off a rest. This was done using all 7 bullets in the magazine, slide release on the 1st round. I have a C-More Dot sight mounted on my 1911, for my old eyes to not see open sights (all a blur).
 
Is there any credence to the notion that cast lead bullets would be considerably more accurate out of a standard 1911? I had not fired any cast bullets until today. I was getting about 2.5" groups at 10 yards using a mix of factory federal, Winchester and my own reloads.
Definitely.

I would also suggest you slug your barrel and if your groove-to-groove diameter is larger than .451", I would recommend use of softer 12 BHN bullets over 18 BHN or harder bullets for better deformation of bullet base. My PT145 has oversized barrel and experienced poor accuracy with harder MBC 18 BHN 200 gr SWC (IDP #1). When I used softer 12 BHN 200 gr SWC (Bullseye #1), even with lighter powder charge of 4.0 gr of Promo, bullet base deformed/obturated enough to seal with the barrel and produced accuracy - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...omo-reloading-range-test.578444/#post-9415802

Here are 1" 15 yard and 2" 25 yard groups shot with 12 BHN 200 gr SWC (Bullseye #1) and 4.0 gr of Promo out of Sig 1911.

index.php
 
I will have to slug my barrel. After the initial posting, I cleaned my guns, and found leading in the barrel. I only shot about 25 rounds of LRN, and I'm not sure what a little leading vs a lot of leading looks like, but it took about 20 minutes of brushing to get it all out. I've heard an oversize bore in relationship to the projectile will cause this. But, then again, I'm sure the bore was pretty fouled up with powder before I fired the lead rounds through. But either way, given the reduced cost and increased accuracy, I will definitely order some cast bullets as soon as I slug my barrel
 
I have found copper scrubbing strands (Chore Boy) wrapped around old bore brush to be the most effective and fastest way to remove leading in the barrel. Make sure you test them with a magnet as many are copper washed and not solid copper.

Glen Fryxell has an excellent chapter on definition of leading, location, types, prevention and removal in chapter 7 of his free ebook. If you shoot lead bullets, his ebook is a must have reference - http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_7_Leading.htm
 
I believe cast lead shoots better than most handgun jacketed bullets because the lead bullets will conform to the barrel better. Gripping the rifling and sealing the bore. I rarely buy lead bullets because I cast my own and have a 6 cavity H&G 68 clone mold and use a good lube. Most commercial cast bullets are way too hard (upwards of 22 BHN and even their 45 ACP bullets are over 15 BHN). I've cast and shot bunches of 200 gr. LSWC in my 2, 45 ACPs with an alloy of 10-11 BHN. No leading, good accuracy...
 
Bullets can leave leading in the bore but at the same time still be accurate. I keep an old .22 caliber bronze bore brush wrapped with Chore Boy in my cleaning kit. About 7-8 passes with the Chore Boy will remove all the leading. It only adds a few seconds to the cleaning session.
 
It's possible you may be getting some leading but it may be caused by copper fouling left in the bore from your previous shooting secession,copper will strip lead from the bullet. Remove all the copper fouling before shooting the cast lead bullet as see if leading is still present.
 
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