CC revolver suggestions - no snubbies please

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I would have to say a S&W m65 in a 3inch with a round butt. I love mine and you can go from 38 to 357 in a moment.
Or a S&W m10 in a four inch. You have to like them. How could you not?
 
Another recommendation for a three inch gun. Have a look at the S&W Model 60 with adjustable sights and a three inch barrel.
If you are willing to buy second hand then a s&W Model 13 or Model 66 with a three inch barrel will serve you well.
 
Hello friends and neighbors // Plus 1 for the Model 60, 1st choice if not a snubbie.

I'll also plus 1 on the 3" sp101 if you want new.
I'll also plus one on any of the Ruger Sixes either 3" or 4" (once you get tired of looking for a 3" go ahead and get a 4" LOL) If mostly target get the Security Six if mostly carry get the Speed Six.

You get the 357 or 38 option with outstanding durability in each of these revolvers.
 
I think 3" still falls under "snubby", or at least "borderline snubby", in my opinion.
 
A 3" revolver, with hand-filling grips, "acts" much more like a service-sized revolver than a mere snubby. Near-snub, perhaps, but somewhere around to 2.5" is the borderline, in my humble opinion.

For a while in the 1980's, I had a square-butt 3" bull-barrel S&W Model 60, and a 2" round-butt tapered-barrel S&W Model 60. The difference in performance between the two was dramatic. I could "qual" on my agency's qual course with the longer Model 60 much more like I shot with a 4" N-frame duty sixgun. Of course, the better-sized grip frame and grips did play a part.

I still need to get out and shoot my 2.25" and new 3.06" SP101 snubbies more, to better test this belief. This will at least factor out the grip difference that existed with my Model 60 fiveguns.
 
You say you don't like snubbies, but they are the CCW specialist revolvers. Carrying a 4" is not always possible and if I'm going to be an armed citizen, I'm going to be armed 24/7. As such, I have a variety of firearms and, yes, I have autos. My autos are proven to me. They run 100 percent and I can clear 'em if not, but they never fail if properly fed.

But, nixing the auto and the snubby, how about a 3" gun? It's on the same snubby frame sometimes, sometimes on a medium frame like a M66 Smith or Taurus, but medium frame gun. I have the Taurus, the 3" Smith being rather rare and expensive. 2.5" K frames are easier to find, but I wanted the 3" and it really is an easier gun to carry than a 4" and a lot easier to shoot than a 2" J frame. It strikes a happy medium.

Now, in lieu of the 3" K frame, how's about a 3" Ruger SP101? I had the 2.3" version and it was very accurate. The 3" is only easier to shoot due to the extra sight radius. The SP101 is heavier than a J frame, but lighter than a K frame and thinner with the 5 shot cylinder which makes it ride better IWB, less lumpy. You can get it in .327 Magnum if you're afraid of bigger, but bare in mind that you can shoot .38 special loads in any .357 magnum and if you WANT to shoot the mags, you have the choice. Some of the better loads in .38 special are very good fight stoppers and they're mild to shoot compared to the full power magnums. There are light magnums out there, too. The variety of loads will be from very mild to very wild if you get a .357, everything from light 148 grain .38 wadcutter target loads to full power 180 grain Buffalo Bore magnum bear stoppers.

I suggest that the Ruger 3" SP101 should top your list, just going by your post. It's a very easy gun to shoot due to its weight, yet very easy to carry due to its compact size. Put a Hogue grip on it and it's wonderful in the hand and at handling recoil, yet its round butt design hides very well on the belt. Of the guns I see suggested, too, the Ruger is the strongest, toughest little lump of steel. It'll be shooting into the next century. K frames are rather fragile in places like the flat bottomed forcing cone (had a forcing cone split on a K frame in the past) and I never was that enamored with the hammer mounted firing pins. I much prefer the rugged Ruger transfer bar system and floating frame mounted firing pin. When Ruger came out with the Six series, they had a display at the SHOT shows with a machine dry firing a Six over and over and over, just to show how rugged the guns are. The SP101 is a stronger gun than the Six series, too, better lock up, and in my experience, better accuracy, though that varies gun to gun. My Security Six never impressed me with accuracy. The SP101, 2.3" barrel and all, was more accurate with any .38 load and almost as accurate with heavy magnums. The Six was a 4" gun.
 
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Hate snubs?

If the reason u hate snubs is the feel in yor hand,most modern revolvers can have alot of different grips on them,including full size.The weight is not yor friend when carrying all day.And dont believe the myth that short barrels cant b accurate.I own a 4" model 66,a 2 1/2" security six,but i carry my model 37 snub.It weighs 14 oz.The other 2 are like 34oz i believe.
 
Seeing as a 3" revolver isn't going to be a pocket revolver, I'm again going to go against the conventional wisdom of the thread here. We're now talking a "belt gun" . I just don't see a 3" revolver being any easier to carry than a 4" with a good IWB holster (unless you are small in stature, then that inch might make a difference) . A compact 6 shot .38 special, like or similar to a Colt Police Positive Special would seem ideal, or the slightly larger ubiquitous K frame, or "six" series Ruger.

I guess that's why I sold my snub 19, because the 4" was no more difficult to carry , with the all the benifits of the longer sight radius.

Now 4" Colts ride where the 19 used to reside.
 
It's tough to beat a S&W K frame for what you're suggesting, I have owned several. Never wanted a snubbie myself but for CCW I purchased a S&W 66 with 2.5" barrel. The range results were pretty interesting. I didn't expect good results from such a short barrel but the gun proved me wrong. This is now my favorite carry and I wouldn't get rid of it.
 
I carry a GP100 4" . The only handgun I currently own . It's weight and bulk don't bother me . Maybe I'm just used to it . The only problem I have with it is trying to conceal it during the warm weather/summer . I'm saving up to buy a 3" SP101 .
 
Once you move to belt carry, specifically inside the waistband, a 4" barrel is better than a 2.5" barrel. Decent holster makers know how to use the longer barrel to provide leverage to push the butt of the gun into your side, using your belt as a fulcrum.

The only thing that really matters, when carrying a 3-4" revolver IWB, is the width of the cylinder. Again, for this, the 3" SP101 or 4" S&W K-frame are the best options due to their narrower cylinders.

At this moment I am wearing my 4" S&W Model 64 in a Blade Tech IWB with a 1.75" belt, experiencing zero discomfort. Later today we will hop in the car and ride a couple of hours, again with no discomfort. I might take a nap this afternoon, with zero discomfort. It isn't a big deal to carry a full sized revolver, so long as its done right (gun, holster, belt, attitude).
 
Ratdrall: "Once you move to belt carry, specifically inside the waistband, a 4" barrel is better than a 2.5" barrel. Decent holster makers know how to use the longer barrel to provide leverage to push the butt of the gun into your side, using your belt as a fulcrum."

Indeed. I noticed this same thing as far back as the 1980's, with 4" and snubby-length versions of similar-framed sixguns, carried IWB. Same with 1911 pistols, too; the 5" versions were more comfortable IWB than even Commanders.

FWIW, I have a VERY comfortable Milt Sparks PMK, which is, of couse not IWB, that I use when I tote my 4" Speed Six. Heavenly! (It is actually made for a K-frame; Sparks does not catalog the PMK for the Speed Six, and neither I, nor Milt Sparks, will guarantee a proper fit when using a holster for which the rig was not made. A Security Six will NOT fit inside this particular holster.)
 
First off, thanks for all the responses! Honestly, I never expected this many suggestions, but I'll take them. :)

I really do like the 3" barrels and don't consider them to be snubnosed. I also like the rounded butt, it seems like it would be easier to carry.

As it's easier to get info on new guns, that's mostly what I have researched thus far. I have to say that the SP101 is standing out for the new ones, but I have no problem buying used.

Anyway, I still have research to do, especially 'real-world' research where I need to get out and lay hands on these pistols, but keep the suggestions coming if you have them!
 
I doubt you'll be terribly unhappy with a 3" SP101. If you're looking new, that's probably going to be the easier one to come into.


After you get more comfortable knowing what you're looking at, you can begin your search for something used. I have no problems buying used. I don't always get what I'm looking at for one reason or another, but I own just as many used guns as I do new one. Sometimes what I want simply isn't manufactured anymore.
 
S&W Model 60-10. It's got a 3" full lug barrel and adjustable sites. Looks like a mini 686.

The Model 36 was also made with a 3" barrel.

Colt Police Special is a 4" barrel version of the Detective Special (technically, I think the Dick Special is the 2" version of the PPS). Very light and concealable.

3" S&W Model 65, it heavier, but a good choice.
 
clang,

Three of those guns you mentioned are no longer produced, and a 3" Model 65 demands a high premium right now.


I wouldn't send someone new to guns off to try to find something from the used market, especially something as desireable as a 3" Model 65.
 
I carry a 4" K frame size revolver on a regular basis. As far as your size goes you can conceal anything if you dress for it. I carried 4" K frames since I was you size (haven't gotten any taller) and see no problems there. There's a ton of them out there new and used S&W, Taurus, and Ruger Speed Six. I like stainless for a carry gun as you needn't worry about the finish so much.
 
The only thing that really matters, when carrying a 3-4" revolver IWB, is the width of the cylinder. Again, for this, the 3" SP101 or 4" S&W K-frame are the best options due to their narrower cylinders.

True. Though I still carry 3" and shorter guns frequently, simply because they are usually equipped with easier to conceal round butts. And they are a hair more comfortable if sitting a lot. And as for the cylinder width, I agree as well. I really don't find much difference between the 5 shot J Frame and Ruger SP, so I carry 6 shooters IWB, but YMMV.

Actually, given time to acclimate and really good quality gear (like a Lobo Gunleather IWB holster and a Beltman 1.5" bullhide belt), a 4" N Frame like my S&W Model 28 Highway Patrolman in .357 Magnum is possible, though it is not my most frequently carried gun. I carry it when I can though because I shoot this particular gun better than just about any gun I own. Plus, the intimidation factor, though certainly not to be counted on, might be a bit higher with the big blue N Frame than a little S&W 642 :evil: .


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More often though, I carry my 4" Ruger Police Service Six in .357 Magnum in a FIST #20 IWB holster. I paid only $275 for this gun, and it carries very comfortably. It is very accurate in my hands too, though not quite as natural as my M28.


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As for 3" guns, I really like my S&W Model 13. I paid $450 for mine 6 months ago, including the original box and papers. That price may have been a little high at the time, but I'm seeing (online) a number of 3" 13s breeching the $500 threshold these days. I've not started carrying it yet, but I'll use a K Frame FIST #20 when I do. Like others, I don't consider 3" K frames snubs as they have a full length ejector rod. As stated earlier, the compact round butt makes the gun extremely easy to conceal, even with just a white T-Shirt.


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4" .38s are another option:

Model 10: Fixed sights, blue
15: Adj sights, blue
64: fixed sights, stainless
67: adj sights, stainless


I own a 4" Model 15 that I paid $309 for about a year ago. I carried it pretty frequently up until the time I purchased and proved my Service Six to be reliable. It has since been living in my safe more often, but I still carry it every now and then. I like guns with holster worn finishes, but this one is close to mint and I think I'd lke to keep it that way.


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With the exception of the Model 28, all of the above pictured guns can be carried with reasonable comfort by most individuals. The 28 does take more patience, and one probably ought to get used to carrying a medium frame gun for a while first. For me, the 28 is simply too accurate (in my hands) not to carry. :)

Guess that means I'll be looking for a 4" N frame with a caliber starting in "4" before long :evil: .
 
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IWB, an SP101 is much more comfy (narrower under the belt and lighter) than any K frame I've ever tried to carry. I don't like 4" barrels, either. I'd have to wear a shirt down to my knees to cover it up OWB and IWB it just rides too far down and slows the draw that much more. It is amazing how much better a 3" gun works for me than a 4" and I'm not vertically challenged.

Truth be told, I really like 2" alloy snubs like the 642 or Taurus Ultralites for carry. I shoot well with them and .38 +P is plenty hot enough for self defense. The smaller gun will be there all day. I'll be tempted to leave the bigger gun at home. Belt guns are special carries in my collection, not suited for all day carry, never will be. Everyone has different jobs and different daily habits, though. When I'm rolling around under a tractor repairing or attaching something, I don't want a gun on my belt. If I walked upright all day and never bent over or laid down or squatted to do something, perhaps wore a business suit, it might be different.
 
BTW, I carried a Kel Tec P11 for the last week 24/7 and decided to carry my new to me Polish Radom P64 today, 9mm Makarov, since I tested it yesterday. I like this thing, very accurate and reliable. The revolver in my pocket rotation is a Taurus M85SSUL and I carry it quite a lot, especially if I have a belt gun on as a primary. The same .38+Ps will work in both guns, common reload, reloads carried in speed strips. Makes sense to me, anyway.
 
How important is the "concealed" part to you? To me, it is the driving factor.

Cylinder thickness is the key dimension here (as noted above).

I carry a Ruger LCR (I know you don't like snubbies) for all of the above reasons. The cylinder is very slim (5 shots, fluted). The overall length and weight of the gun is very nice.

.38 special with medium loads (I reload) makes it a joy to practice with at the range. Factory loads are very snappy, but not uncontrollable or violent.

It even fits in a pocket holster. I hope you find the ONE that works for you.
 
How important is the "concealed" part to you? To me, it is the driving factor.

Cylinder thickness is the key dimension here (as noted above).

I carry a Ruger LCR (I know you don't like snubbies) for all of the above reasons. The cylinder is very slim (5 shots, fluted). The overall length and weight of the gun is very nice.

.38 special with medium loads (I reload) makes it a joy to practice with at the range. Factory loads are very snappy, but not uncontrollable or violent.

It even fits in a pocket holster. I hope you find the ONE that works for you.
If "concealed" to you means no one can tell then you will never achieve your goal. An expert will KNOW from the way you stand and move. In the real world I will not give up stopping power for conceal-ability, ever. Then again if I could shoot like my wife doe,s I would be satisfied with a 38 or a whimpy 9. Since that is not gonna happen, I carry a Big Bore handgun. On top of that, in the last few years I've gone to Open Carry and still over 98% of the people never see the damn thing on my hip, and that includes the stainless 4" Taurus in a slide. Oh and recently the wife went back to a 38 Special, an LCR was her choice (as always it is her choice). The first time she fired it, she put all 5 rounds in a 5" center of mass group, they just got tighter from there.
 
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