CCW Revolver... thoughts?

[skeptiq]

Hello, I purchased my first handgun a few weeks ago and have been bitten by the bug. I will be taking my CCW class shortly, and would like to have a revolver as my carry piece.

I went to the local GS to hold a few. I was really impressed with the S&W 637 .38 spl +P. It felt great in my paw and was very light. I have also seen the S&W 442 online only (meaning not in real life). The S&W site says they are the same length and weight, so what is the difference between the two? Also, the Charter Arms Undercover .38 spl +P looks pretty similar in size and they wiegh about the same as the S&W models. Any idea of quality with Charter Arms vs S&W?

Thoughts, ideas, suggestions... anyone???

Thanks in advance!

 

[mavracer]

637 external hammer
442 internal or concealed hammer

 

[skeptiq]

Thanks for the info! So then for CCW, it would make sense to have the concealed hammer so as not to attract lint, etc (depending on carry location)...

Another model I just remembered is the Taurus 85... How do you think that stacks up to the other 3 on the list???

 

[orchidhunter]

skeptiq, Go with the S&W. the Taurus and Charter Arms are not in the same league with S&W. The models 642,442 are your best bet for CCW. orchidhunter

 

[skeptiq]

So essentially what I have gathered since the orig posting of this thread, if I am not mistaken, is the 442 and 637 are exactly the same except for the hammer???

Thanks

 

[MountainBear]

Smith and Wesson 438. Shrouded hammer gives you the best of both the other S&W options. Also rated for +P if you enjoy abusing your hands. Pretty much any of the shrouded hammer J-frames would work.

 

[Smithiac]

Another one to consider would be the 638. With a shrouded hammer I always like being able to see and use a hammer if need be. Not really needed in a CCW situation but just general shooting.

 

[XR400R]

I carried the Charter Undercover in my front pocket in a DeSantis SuperFly holster for more than a year. I thought it was just fine. I practiced with it weekly and it always fired, shot reasonably accurately. No trouble at all. I can recommend it - particularly for the price.

But I recently switched to a S&W M&P 340 and I would not go back. Although the 340 was more than 2X the cost of the Undercover, it is clearly of higher quality; weighs considerably less; and chambers .327 Magnums in addition to the .38 spl to which the Undercover is limited.

Sorry, I have no experience with the other two S&W you referenced in your original post.

 

[mavracer]

is the 442 and 637 are exactly the same except for the hammer???

and finish 442 is black and 637 is silver, they make them both in both finishes 642 and 437 IIRC.

Sorry no 437 avaliable there used to be a model 37 blue external hammer airweight.

 

[S&Wfan]

I voted "other," but simply to say there are quite a few S&W variations to choose from that are just as good.

1. Steel frames (blued, stainless or nickle) - A tad heavy for pocket carry (though I've done it a lot with no problem). Great in holsters and/or jackets and such.

2. "Airweight" version frames (blued, stainless or nickle) - These look the same as their steel framed brothers, but only weight about 15 oz. (vs. about 23 for steel). They have aluminum frames but steel cylinders and barrels of course. THIS IS WHAT YOU NEED!!!!!!!!!

3. "Airlite" versions - Scandium and Titanium versions that are lighter than the aluminum "Airweight" versions. TOTALLY inappropriate for a new revolver shooter. These guns, IMHO are too light . . . and thus the recoil is brutal and the gun will shift in your hands making accurate, fast followup shots inaccurate.

Even seasoned shooters like me prefer the perfect compromise (weight vs. recoil/followup times) of the Airweight types.


THE THREE VERSIONS:

1. Chief's Special - These have conventional hammers and are made in all three versions of weights and finishes listed above.

BENEFIT: You can thumb cock this type and shoot it single action for target work AND, in some situations, this might also allow you to make a longer shot from cover, in a defensive position, against a BG. NEGATIVE: A tad more prone to the hammer snagging during the draw from a pocket or jacket.


2. Centennial-type - Hammerless versions ala 640, 642, etc., all offered in the finishes listed above.

BENEFIT: Slimmest upper profile when concealed. No hammer to snag on anything when drawn. NEGATIVE: You can't shoot it single action at all, since it has no hammer you can cock.

3. "Bodyguard-type" - This "humpback" type HAS a hammer, but it is protected by the hump so the gun won't snag.

BENEFITS: Like the Centennial type, it won't snag. Like the Chief's Special-types, it can be cocked. NEGATIVE: Slightly less concealable profile but REALLY, not a problem at all!


SO THERE IT IS . . . Three weights, three GREAT types, and lots of finishes to choose from (new and/or used).


WHAT DID I GET? . . . Good ones that I found. I could NOT care less about the types! All work perfectly. However, this is what I ended up with, since I MUCH prefer the pre-lock, vintage S&Ws over the new ones:

AIRWEIGHT: Model 37 (blued), from 1971

STANDARD weight: Model 36 (nickle-plated), from 1964

AIRLITE: IMHO, a poor choice that's not needed.

Both guns are in nearly like new condition, btw, and were purchased last year.

Here they are, along with another "snubbie" of sorts . . . a big ol' N-frame S&W Model 25-2 .45ACP shootin' revolver with the barrel shortened to 3 1/4".

T.

PS: Trust your life only to the S&W. The "chump change" you save buying a lesser handgun will be lost if you ever decide to trade it on a fine gun later. OTOH, the S&W revolvers will only appreciate in value.

You get what you pay for!

 

[Wolfeye]

I've carried a Ruger SP101 in .357 magnum with a bobbed hammer. It's a little heavy at about 25 oz., but this makes it more fun to shoot than a Smith j-frame. It's pocketable if you're a big guy, but for most people I'd say it's a belt gun. I haven't found any real issues with it, other than I'm still looking for the right grip for my hands.

 

[skeptiq]

S&Wfan, you are the man. That was VERY informative and makes perfect sence to me.

Thanks everyone else for voting and the comments / info!

This is the best forum I have found for ANY subject, the posters are top notch and like to help, so thanks all making this a great resource.

 

[Rodentman]

I have several carry guns, a Kahr PM40, S&W 638 Bodyguard, Ruger LCP, and Walther PPK.

For a quick drop in the pocket I'll take the LCP, but I've lately been leaning on the 638. I have no doubt that it will work if needed, and the fit and finish are excellent.

It is not at all difficult to handle with regular .38. I admit that I have not tried it with +P's yet.

 

[NoWake200]

"Airlite" versions - Scandium and Titanium versions that are lighter than the aluminum "Airweight" versions.

I am not an expert by NO MEANS.... trying learn like a lot of other gun owners. This is what I have learned....

I have heard, and in fact there was an actual problem at the CCW class I attended. From what I understand and have heard is the Scandium cylinders is not able to absorb the recoil of the fired rounds. In turn creating problems for the remaining rounds. The bullet can actually separate from the case while in the cylinder. This actually happened like I said at our CCW class and the instructor said it also happened to his wife's gun as well. Like I said I am not an expert and do not want to step on the toes of others who know a hell of a lot more. Just passing along what I have learned.

With this all being said I voted other.... I really wanted a S&W .357 and lucky for me a gun shop in my area rents most of what they sell. I shot a few S&W .357s and .38s but they just did not feel right in my hand and I was all over the target. I wound up going with an all steel Ruger KSP-321XL SP101 .357 2 1/4". That was my pick and it felt and fired the best for me. But I am sure no two shooters are the same.

Good luck and have fun shopping.

 

[JayL]

I have an Air weight 637. I also have an old Model 10 S&W. The weight difference is big, with the 4" model 10 more than twice the weight of the 637 and correspondingly "easier" to shoot (less recoil, keep the muzzle down for the next shot etc.) That being said, the 637 is fine with non-plus P. The beauty of it is, you can start with a light wadcutter load to get used to the "bolder" feel ofthe ari weight and move into hotter rounds, even in .38 SPL. I haven't put any +P through it yet, but I am sure it will be brisk. If you are looking for pocket carry, you can't beat the S&W air weights.
I've also shot the Ruger SP101 and loved it - it is on my wish list. Those extra 10 ounces make it more comfortable to shoot but may make it a belt carry rather than pocket. It's all about what you think your needs are.
Enjoy whatever you get, buy plenty of ammo and go to the range a lot!

 

[Mooseman]

I carry the Ruger sp101 in .357. Very nice gun to shoot. A bit too heavy for pocket carry but not noticible when worn on a decent belt. Hard to go wrong with the S&Ws either.