Cerakote on Aluminum-update Freeman Flipper

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Yo Mama

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So Jeff Freeman of Freeman Outdoors (formerly designer for Gerber) changed the new handles to anodized, vs. cerakoted. It seems like immediately I had the Cerakote come off the handles with simple wear in the pocket.

I'm glad he switched, I got the new version back, and think the anodized version will hold up better, but......I have a question for you all, which would hold up better over time on Aluminum, the anodizing or cerakoting?....and maybe why?

I know Aluminum needs to be bead blasted usually to have the Cerakote hold, I don't know how Jeff prepped it before, but he mentioned it's pretty hard to get it to stay.

New version sent back to me:

IMG_0983_zpsvpbz9ubt.jpg

Note, the blade is still coated in Cerakote, it's D2 steel, should be just fine. :D
 
Hard anodizing is about as scratch resistant a finish you can put on aluminum.

Many times better then any type of baked on paint.

rc
 
Yo Mamma,

Do you know what the surface of aluminum alloy is converted to with anodizing? Aluminum oxide, sometimes called alumina. The anodized surface should be a few mircrons thick and be very very resistant to abrasion since aluminum oxide itself is often used as an abrasive. Since it is converted from the surface of the material it doesn't peel off. Ceracoat, on the other hand is applied and does best if applied to an anodized surface. Failing to anodize the aluminum alloy and failing to clean it very well makes adhesion of the Ceracoat less sure. Ceracoat is also cranky about humidity levels and won't "stick" if there's the least bit of moisture absorbed into the liquid or on the surface so the parts have to be "bone" dry.
 
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