Chamber questions?????
- Thread starter huli
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Im283
Member
that .350 does not sound right based on other threads and information in them.
are you sure you used the proper tool to measure and the correct way of doing so?
Fuff will tell you to slug the bore and I believe that is the proper way to do this exam.
are you sure you used the proper tool to measure and the correct way of doing so?
Fuff will tell you to slug the bore and I believe that is the proper way to do this exam.
mainmech48
Member
Other than needing some extra effort to seat they'll do perfectly well. BTW: are you measuring land-to-land or groove to groove?
Most Italian .36 replicas seem to recommend a 0.375 " ball. In practical terms you'll just have to push a little harder for the extra 0.005" and get a bit thicker ring shaved off. FWIW, you'll get a dandy seal.
Most Italian .36 replicas seem to recommend a 0.375 " ball. In practical terms you'll just have to push a little harder for the extra 0.005" and get a bit thicker ring shaved off. FWIW, you'll get a dandy seal.
Smokin_Gun
Member
As most shooters have found, a Pietta will take .375 dia. balls and Uberti .380 dia. balls. That's how I have found it to be.
mainmech48
Member
If that's so, it ain't so much of a "duh" as a "***??"
Sounds way, way smaller than it should be to me. With a chamber diameter that much smaller than what the nominal bore diameter should be I expect accuracy to be dismal. I don't think that even dead-soft pure lead can be expected to 'slug-up' enough to fit correctly.
Slug the bore. Use your mic or a good calipher to measure the groove diameter of the slug. Check it against the chamber measurement. If the difference is more than, say, 0.007" either way, and you bought it new, send it back. It isn't likely to shoot for beans.
Sounds way, way smaller than it should be to me. With a chamber diameter that much smaller than what the nominal bore diameter should be I expect accuracy to be dismal. I don't think that even dead-soft pure lead can be expected to 'slug-up' enough to fit correctly.
Slug the bore. Use your mic or a good calipher to measure the groove diameter of the slug. Check it against the chamber measurement. If the difference is more than, say, 0.007" either way, and you bought it new, send it back. It isn't likely to shoot for beans.
Bad Flynch
Member
>I have a 36 Caliber Pietta that mics at 350 on the bore size<
Well, your problem comes from the way that you define caliber, at least in part.
When measuring barrels, the caliber of a weapon is measured as the bore diameter, which is the land-to-land diameter. One does not measure the projectile or the groove-to-groove diameter.
Case in point: land-to-land diameter is 0.360"--that is a 36 caliber bore. It should not be measured with a dial or vernier caliper because of induced error. And a decimal point should not be used in front of the number when the word caliber comes after the number. Caliber, in this case, means being expressed in hundredths of an inch, so the decimal is redundant.
Then figure grooves at about 0.0075" on each side or maybe more for a muzzleloader, which usually has deeper grooves than a smokeless weapon, and you end up with a groove-to-groove diameter of 0.375"--which corresponds to the ball diameter. However, with a capunball revolver, one needs a slightly oversized ball for a flash seal and friction to make the thing stay put in the cylinder, so 0.005" oversize makes it 0.380" or so.
Well, your problem comes from the way that you define caliber, at least in part.
When measuring barrels, the caliber of a weapon is measured as the bore diameter, which is the land-to-land diameter. One does not measure the projectile or the groove-to-groove diameter.
Case in point: land-to-land diameter is 0.360"--that is a 36 caliber bore. It should not be measured with a dial or vernier caliper because of induced error. And a decimal point should not be used in front of the number when the word caliber comes after the number. Caliber, in this case, means being expressed in hundredths of an inch, so the decimal is redundant.
Then figure grooves at about 0.0075" on each side or maybe more for a muzzleloader, which usually has deeper grooves than a smokeless weapon, and you end up with a groove-to-groove diameter of 0.375"--which corresponds to the ball diameter. However, with a capunball revolver, one needs a slightly oversized ball for a flash seal and friction to make the thing stay put in the cylinder, so 0.005" oversize makes it 0.380" or so.
huli,
Maybe I am not picking up what you are putting down.
If the chambers of your cylinder all measure .350 you will never get accuracy to speak of when you shoot that revolver.
The chambers need to be opened to at least bore size.
Once you measure the bore of your barrel, you will be able to determine what size to open your chambers to.
Maybe I am not picking up what you are putting down.
If the chambers of your cylinder all measure .350 you will never get accuracy to speak of when you shoot that revolver.
The chambers need to be opened to at least bore size.
Once you measure the bore of your barrel, you will be able to determine what size to open your chambers to.
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