I am learning to reload .223 Remington using Montana Gold 55g BT bullets. I noticed that I can sit bullets in the case mouth without doing any chamfer and debur. So is it still necessary to do these two operations? If I can seat bullets without doing chamfer and debur, then what is the purpose? Thank you.
Chamfer and Debur- necessary?
- Thread starter RM
- Start date
- Status
ranger335v
Member
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2006
- Messages
- 3,797
"So is it still necessary to do these two operations?"
No, it's not "necessary" at all, ever, boat tails will sit in most anything, right? It's nice tho, kinda keeps from scoring the bullets during seating and allows for smoother chambering but it sure ain't necessary, nothing will blow up if you don't.
No, it's not "necessary" at all, ever, boat tails will sit in most anything, right? It's nice tho, kinda keeps from scoring the bullets during seating and allows for smoother chambering but it sure ain't necessary, nothing will blow up if you don't.
Last edited:
Blackrock
Member
I i/o chamfer whenever I trim to remove burrs and inside chamfer for easier bullet entry. I use a Lyman VLD inside tool on everything. I just got myself an early Christmas present of an RCBS Trim Mate so I will be doing everything cause it is so easy.
Wait till you crunch a case when a bullet won't seat properly and you will become a believer.
Wait till you crunch a case when a bullet won't seat properly and you will become a believer.
rfwobbly
Member
Assuming you've trimmed the case before reloading, the flat-nose cutter of the trimmer is going to leave small burrs hanging off both sides of the trimmed surface. That is, on the inside and the outside of the case mouth.
If they are not knocked off, then they can cause you trouble. If one of the inside burrs breaks off during seating, then it can wedge between the bullet and the case neck, making a bulge that will keep the round from chambering. Burrs on the outside can do the same thing, or can cut your fingers.
As a person who regularly works around machine tools and freshly cut metal parts, let me advise you that you haven't "lived" until you've gotten one of those tiny pieces of metal lodged under your finger tip. Yow! Not fun.
So to me, the act of chamfering is not so you can get some kind of perfect angle and depth (like the trim length is), but to simply make sure all the burrs are gone. If you have one of those motorized case trimmers that spins the case, then slapping a piece of Scotch-Brite abrasive pad on their while the case is still spinning might do just as well as the cutter.
If you do lots of rifle cases, then you can really speed things up by putting your cutter(s) in a drill press and offering the cases to the spinning cutter by hand. Or you can ask Santa for an RCBS "Trim Mate" for New Years!
Hope this helps!
If they are not knocked off, then they can cause you trouble. If one of the inside burrs breaks off during seating, then it can wedge between the bullet and the case neck, making a bulge that will keep the round from chambering. Burrs on the outside can do the same thing, or can cut your fingers.
As a person who regularly works around machine tools and freshly cut metal parts, let me advise you that you haven't "lived" until you've gotten one of those tiny pieces of metal lodged under your finger tip. Yow! Not fun.
So to me, the act of chamfering is not so you can get some kind of perfect angle and depth (like the trim length is), but to simply make sure all the burrs are gone. If you have one of those motorized case trimmers that spins the case, then slapping a piece of Scotch-Brite abrasive pad on their while the case is still spinning might do just as well as the cutter.
If you do lots of rifle cases, then you can really speed things up by putting your cutter(s) in a drill press and offering the cases to the spinning cutter by hand. Or you can ask Santa for an RCBS "Trim Mate" for New Years!
Hope this helps!
243winxb
Member
After trimming you must chamfer and Debur or the chips will end up in your chamber or reloading die. When the round is fired, the outside bur is going to get forced against the chamber, where will it go? Buy an RCBS X die, trim and Chamfer and Debur 1 time and done.
Last edited:
RM,
Did you trim the cases? I size, trim, chamfer & debur every time. It is easy to do every time. Time consuming but easy. It gets to be light work if you keep up with it.
I know a guy that uses the dillon trimmer. It does not debur or chamfer. He runs the case through a tumbler which he feels is adequate.
It takes so little effort to chamfer/debur once trimmed that I would not skip it. Don't chamfer or debur more than needed. The rookie move is to overdo it.
Did you trim the cases? I size, trim, chamfer & debur every time. It is easy to do every time. Time consuming but easy. It gets to be light work if you keep up with it.
I know a guy that uses the dillon trimmer. It does not debur or chamfer. He runs the case through a tumbler which he feels is adequate.
It takes so little effort to chamfer/debur once trimmed that I would not skip it. Don't chamfer or debur more than needed. The rookie move is to overdo it.
R.W.Dale
Member
If I don't trim I don't deburr simple as that
I would doubly skip it loading 55g FMJ's as nothing you do will make these shoot great
I would doubly skip it loading 55g FMJ's as nothing you do will make these shoot great
snuffy
Member
Well, I'm going to go against what has been offered to say I inside chamfer,(with the Lyman VLD tool), even on factory fresh NEW brass. Further even when processing new Lapua brass. A close examination of the inside edge,(10x magnification), showed an irregular edge that could/would damage a bullet during seating.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Yes it is necessary.
Like everyone said, if you don't it will scrape jacket material off the bullet at best, and could cause chambering problems at worst.
You only have to do it once with new brass or after trimming, and it ain't that hard.
So do it.
rc
Like everyone said, if you don't it will scrape jacket material off the bullet at best, and could cause chambering problems at worst.
You only have to do it once with new brass or after trimming, and it ain't that hard.
So do it.
rc
qajaq59
Member
There are X amount of steps in reloading cases. Deburring is one of them. You take it from there........
NuJudge
Member
If you buy the fancy RCBS trimmer, or a Giraud, the trimmer does the chamfer and deburr for you.
CDD
CDD
David Wile
Member
Hey Folks,
I have found that if I carefully champher the outside and then the inside of the case neck, I can usually seat cast bullets with little or no belling of the case mouth. For two die rifle sets this is great because you do not have to buy an extra die for belling the mouth for cast bullets. With three die pistol die sets, you already have a die to bell the case mouth, but if you use cases that have been champhered, you may find you are able to seat cast bullets without any belling at all.
I champher the case mouths on all cases when I first get them and when I have to actually trim the length. Other than that, once champhered, I don't need to do it again.
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
I have found that if I carefully champher the outside and then the inside of the case neck, I can usually seat cast bullets with little or no belling of the case mouth. For two die rifle sets this is great because you do not have to buy an extra die for belling the mouth for cast bullets. With three die pistol die sets, you already have a die to bell the case mouth, but if you use cases that have been champhered, you may find you are able to seat cast bullets without any belling at all.
I champher the case mouths on all cases when I first get them and when I have to actually trim the length. Other than that, once champhered, I don't need to do it again.
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
interlock
Member
i wonder what happens to the very tiny bits of brass shaving that might drop into the case when chamferring. i expect most just come back out when you give them a blow or tap. but those that don't when you pull the trigger do they vapourise? where do they go? if they do vapourise do they just make up part of the copper fouling? do they act like tiny amour piercing jets of vaporised metal and really wreck the barrel?
Interlock,
I clean the cases enough as a first step. Then lube, size, trim, debur in & out. I shake out chips as I go. Very little chips make it past this point.
There is some gauge & inspecting in there also. Then the cases go back through a tumbler to clean lube off & polish. Then to media separator. Never seen any brass shavings in the cases or media.
I clean the cases enough as a first step. Then lube, size, trim, debur in & out. I shake out chips as I go. Very little chips make it past this point.
There is some gauge & inspecting in there also. Then the cases go back through a tumbler to clean lube off & polish. Then to media separator. Never seen any brass shavings in the cases or media.
RM,
I use walnut to clean enough to process. The second trip through the tumbler the case has no primer so I use small corncob so it does not clog the primer hole.
On fairly clean brass I sometimes just clean the necks and skip the first tumble. The second tumble with cob may be only 15 minutes to remove the case lube.
I use walnut to clean enough to process. The second trip through the tumbler the case has no primer so I use small corncob so it does not clog the primer hole.
On fairly clean brass I sometimes just clean the necks and skip the first tumble. The second tumble with cob may be only 15 minutes to remove the case lube.
- Status
