Change Barrel or Live with it?

Status
Not open for further replies.

jonb32248

Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2016
Messages
515
Location
Missouri
I have three hand guns in 9mm. They are a Glock 19, a Walther PPS M2, and a Ruger SR9C. I have noticed that the Glock the cases to have black soot on the outside of the case but not all over the case just down one side. I reload my own ammo. I thought it was the powder weight but after going up .1 gr. it still was there . So today I separated my empty cases as I shot and almost all the cases from the Glock had the black soot. Non of the other guns produced the soot.Is this a barrel problem and would a after market barrel resolve the situation? It's not the end of the world and I could live with it. Would like to know the cause.
 
A .1 grain bump may not be enough. Sounds like your chamber isn't sealing, so that means pressure isn't where it should be. Your other guns may have tighter chambers so this doesn't present itself on those guns.

Big question, does it do the same with factory loads? If no, bump your charge again. If yes, probably should pursue a custom barrel.
 
A .1 grain bump may not be enough. Sounds like your chamber isn't sealing, so that means pressure isn't where it should be. Your other guns may have tighter chambers so this doesn't present itself on those guns.

Big question, does it do the same with factory loads? If no, bump your charge again. If yes, probably should pursue a custom barrel.
Yea I can't remember what factory loads do since I hardly ever use them. I will maybe get some and see. What about shorten them a little. I run them as long as possible, 1.67" I think.They all pass the plunk test, etc. no problems there.
 
Running long drops pressure considerably. My money is on low pressure in the chamber not expanding your brass enough to seal the brass to the chamber.
 
Why are you running them so long?like Saud above, running them long drops the pressure and the drop can be considerable in the 9mm.

I will help us to possible find me the reason if you tell us what you are loading. We need everything, brass, primer, powder, powder charge and bullet type and weight.
 
Running long drops pressure considerably. My money is on low pressure in the chamber not expanding your brass enough to seal the brass to the chamber.
How much do you think I should shorten them? Just to get an idea where you would go. I was thinking this the other day but decided to stay where it is. You are confirming my suspicions.
 
2 key questions there for me to answer that. Most don't, but does your 9mm bullet by chance have a cannelure? If so seat there. If not, seat to the point where your bullet goes from being cylindrical to whatever shape the nose takes. Best answer I can give without knowing the bullet is to say get a manual with that bullet listed, and go at least to the recommended maximum overall length, preferably a few thousandths further. When you do this, drop back to starting load and work your load up to where you want it.
 
2 key questions there for me to answer that. Most don't, but does your 9mm bullet by chance have a cannelure? If so seat there. If not, seat to the point where your bullet goes from being cylindrical to whatever shape the nose takes. Best answer I can give without knowing the bullet is to say get a manual with that bullet listed, and go at least to the recommended maximum overall length, preferably a few thousandths further. When you do this, drop back to starting load and work your load up to where you want it.
Thanks for the advice. Berry's is the bullet and they are a little hard to get exact data. But I will take them down a bit. I never go max on my powder.
 
You have a little soot on your cases. But, no complaints about function, or about where the bullets are going. I fail to understand why you think you have a problem.
I hear you. I'm not saying it's a big PROBLEM just trying to get rid of the soot. It's not a little it's quite a bit on the side, not total case. Not trying to make federal case out of it.
 
Thanks for the advice. Berry's is the bullet and they are a little hard to get exact data. But I will take them down a bit. I never go max on my powder.
I see 5.6gr. of CFEP as max with the 115gr. Berry's. 5.4gr. with the 124 is probably over max. Have you chronographed this load? If you shorten the OAL you will definitely be over.

BTW - there's nothing wrong with being at max, and in fact you'll get the best results with CFEP there. But it's important to know where max is. I find a chronograph indispensable in cases like these where little manufacturer load data exists.
 
How much do you think I should shorten them? Just to get an idea where you would go. I was thinking this the other day but decided to stay where it is. You are confirming my suspicions.
Why don't you try whatever you are using in the PPQ? In most cases there's little to be gained by setting the OAL as long as possible - and it may actually hurt accuracy. Just be aware as you shorten the OAL you may need to back the charge down a bit.
 
Berrys isn’t easy to get data specifically for that bullet, but the data is out there. I haven’t loaded Berry’s in 9mm yet so I won’t comment on the recipe, but I have loaded a lot of Berry’s in other calibers. I will try a couple things and see if I can find you some reliable data.
 
Why don't you try whatever you are using in the PPQ? In most cases there's little to be gained by setting the OAL as long as possible - and it may actually hurt accuracy. Just be aware as you shorten the OAL you may need to back the charge down a bit.
I think you mean the PPS but whatever. They run fine in the Walther and the Ruger. And yes I will back down the charge when I shorten the rounds.
 
Berrys isn’t easy to get data specifically for that bullet, but the data is out there. I haven’t loaded Berry’s in 9mm yet so I won’t comment on the recipe, but I have loaded a lot of Berry’s in other calibers. I will try a couple things and see if I can find you some reliable data.
I have even gone to different stores that sell manuals and the data is hard to find.
 
I have even gone to different stores that sell manuals and the data is hard to find.
That's because in many cases (like this one), it it doesn't exist. Chronograph is a lot cheaper than a new hand or face. And if your soot problem is caused by too low a charge, the chrono will point this out.
 
I think you mean the PPS but whatever. They run fine in the Walther and the Ruger. And yes I will back down the charge when I shorten the rounds.
Yes, sorry, meant PPS. I would start with whatever loading you're using in the other pistols, and adjust from there as necessary. I load my stuff short enough to chamber in every nine I have.
 
Yes, sorry, meant PPS. I would start with whatever loading you're using in the other pistols, and adjust from there is necessary. I load my stuff short enough to chamber in every nine I have.
Thanks for your time. High Road is the best.
 
I have even gone to different stores that sell manuals and the data is hard to find.
Yes, but hard copy manuals aren't the end all be all for stuff like this. It is absolutely preferred, but not always available. My quick perusing puts your charge a bit hot and a lot long. Looks like you really need to drop back to a shorter , standard, OAL. I see guys I trust on this forum posting recipes occasionally and although I trust them, I still advise to start low and work your load up.
 
Yes, but hard copy manuals aren't the end all be all for stuff like this. It is absolutely preferred, but not always available. My quick perusing puts your charge a bit hot and a lot long. Looks like you really need to drop back to a shorter , standard, OAL. I see guys I trust on this forum posting recipes occasionally and although I trust them, I still advise to start low and work your load up.
Wow really I thought I was in a safe zone. I will certainly drop the charge and shorten the OAL. Thanks for your time great advice.
 
Thanks for your time.
No problem. Here's my chrono data on the 115gr. Berry's/CFE-P load. Obviously you'll need to back the charge down a bit because of the heavier bullet and adjust the OAL.

115gr. Berry's plated RN
5.6gr. CFE-P
CCI SPP/Blazer brass
OAL: 1.135"
Average: 1151.1 FPS
SD: 13.2 FPS
Min: 1129 FPS
Max: 1172 FPS
Spread: 43 FPS

1150fps average is about as fast as I want to drive this load for pressure reasons, and the burn cleans up and accuracy is great at that level. No soot on the outside, either. Although the pressure/velocity ratio isn't the same for all bullets, this appear a safe velocity level by the published CFE-P load data for a .356" plated bullet. I would be looking to drive the 124gr. version 1100-1120fps with this powder, from a pressure perspective.
 
Last edited:
Looks like 1.16" is a good OAL for your bullet. You may not be far off there. The listed OALs in this PDF generally chamber in anything (no leade required).
 

Attachments

  • BulletCOL.pdf
    102.1 KB · Views: 2
How much do you think I should shorten them? Just to get an idea where you would go. I was thinking this the other day but decided to stay where it is. You are confirming my suspicions.
I can't tell you what OAL to use, every gun is different of course. Most of my 9mm ammo runs between 1.100" and 1.125" but that's just me. You are running your ammo right near the max SAAMI length. You lose bullet attention since there isn't much of the bullet in the neck.

Use the OAL listed in the data as a guide and move the bullet to find the best accuracy. I hope I made what I mean to say clear, sometimes it sounds clearly me but gibberish to everyone else.

We still need your load information.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top