Chassis Help, Please

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I'm 90% sold on the XLR Element. I just seems to have great reviews and the weight is moderate. Unless someone comes up with something so amazing that I can't pass it up, like a sale on a McRees that is super awesome, I believe it's how I'm gonna go.
You won't regret either one.
 
Ok, here are some pics, not the greatest but best I can do at the moment. Rifle is Savage LA, timed and trued, PT&G oversize bolt body and 300 win mag bolt face, Shilen select match 26" varmint contour, Precision Armament brake. Trigger is accutrigger that I have worked over, got some more to do, pull at 2 lbs but that has to wait till cast is off.
 

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Speaking of MDT, I have two LSS chassis which include their skeleton buttstocks. One is a folder, the other fixed. My only complaint is their folder does not lock when folded. Well, maybe one more complaint; they need to provide an instruction addendum for Savage short-action chassis which explains what the extra mystery parts are for, would save some frustration. I've made that frustration known to my dealer.
What are the mystery parts? Can you describe this? The LSS is shipped with only 4 pieces of hardware, except Savage chassis which get 1 more piece:

- Front Action Screw
- Rear Action Screw
- Pistil Grip Screw
- Washer for Pistol Grip screw

Savage has 2 different bolt spacings on their short actions. We provide an oval washer to allow use for both bolt spacings with the same chassis.
 
I have looked at the MDT LSS chassis and there doesn't seem to be enough meat up front to make me happy and the Tac-21 has some rough reviews from actual owners mostly due to the scope mounting position moving a bit
If the LSS does not heve enough meat upfront, look at the LSS-XL or the HS3.

As for the TAC21. Where did you read that? The scope rail is one-part with the action housing. It is impossible to move. (which is why the TAC21 has improved accuracy up to almost 30%)
 
What are the mystery parts? Can you describe this? The LSS is shipped with only 4 pieces of hardware, except Savage chassis which get 1 more piece:

- Front Action Screw
- Rear Action Screw
- Pistil Grip Screw
- Washer for Pistol Grip screw

Savage has 2 different bolt spacings on their short actions. We provide an oval washer to allow use for both bolt spacings with the same chassis.
FWIW, thank you for giving enough of a crap to chime in and personally deal with a customer issue. I think that that's amazing.

It makes me reconsider my almost decision.
 
If the LSS does not heve enough meat upfront, look at the LSS-XL or the HS3.

As for the TAC21. Where did you read that? The scope rail is one-part with the action housing. It is impossible to move. (which is why the TAC21 has improved accuracy up to almost 30%)
I must have misread. I will go back and take a look and let you know.

C
 
We do everything we can to provide excellent support. We mess up from time to time like everyone else. We don't have many support issues as our product is solid. But we are committed to awesome product and awesome service. And we provide a 100% satisfaction guarantee. If you buy our product and do not like it, you can return it for a 100% refund. (rarely happens)
 
My beef concerning the mystery part is not about the part; it's that the generic instructions make no mention of the mystery part. A simple Savage addendum could solve this. I'm not a gunsmith, how do you expect me to "know" what the washer is for?
 
My beef concerning the mystery part is not about the part; it's that the generic instructions make no mention of the mystery part. A simple Savage addendum could solve this. I'm not a gunsmith, how do you expect me to "know" what the washer is for?
You are absolutely right. We added this to the newest release of our instruction manual. Our apologies that you received this without it!
 
Thanks for your reply. I know for a fact you make awesome products.

I will be outfitting a Savage 22-250 this month, MDT will be in my tier 1 consideration.

BTW, the fitment of the front, short, pic rail section is is very, very tight. There is no way to retain the factory-installed sling stud with the rail section. In other words, the sling stud must be removed in order to install the pic rail section. Why CNC a hole in the pic rail when it's not going to allow the rail section to be installed without removing the sling stud?

Sorry for the tough questions but I'm the guy who ends up dealing with the details.
 
BTW, the fitment of the front, short, pic rail section is is very, very tight. There is no way to retain the factory-installed sling stud with the rail section. In other words, the sling stud must be removed in order to install the pic rail section. Why CNC a hole in the pic rail when it's not going to allow the rail section to be installed without removing the sling stud?
That hole is not there to allow the sling stud to go through. That hole is to attach a quick-release sling mount. Like these: http://www.brownells.com/shooting-a...ncle-mike-s-qd-100-sling-swivel-prod8892.aspx
 
Hey, MDT, since you have chimed in here I have an issue for you. On the HS3 chassis that I just ordered from you, the recoil lug channel is too narrow for over-sized recoil lug. I had to open up the channel for it to fit. No problem for me to do, have enough fab and metal working exp. to handle most things metal, but some may not. Another .100" would have been great,lol. Otherwise so far, the HS3 is outstanding.
 
Fair point. We did discuss this previously. It would certainly be an easy change for us to allow for more aftermarket recoil lugs. But once you take all the different ones into consideration, it removes too much meat, weakening the chassis. So we opted for keeping it opened up for just factory lugs. Hope that makes sense!
 
Well, kinda not really. You make a custom aftermarket chassis that will only fit factory recoil lugs? OK, let me stop here. I just went and looked at your site again, and on each chassis description page, half way down on the right side, there is a nice diagram with "Room for larger recoil lugs". So, I guess the issue here is, which way is it? I think an exact size would be nice listed in the specs. I can understand not opening them enough to accept the monstrous .500" lugs, but most aftermarket lugs are .250-.300". The recoil lug area on the chassis I received measured .210-.215", my lug measured .260" with duracoat, .250" without. Had I known the exact size I could have gotten a lug to fit from Pacific Tool & Gauge(they make from .185"-.500") Tone sometimes comes across incorrectly in text, so let me say that I really like the chassis and would not send it back if you wanted. This was not my first custom rifle build, so things not fitting out of the box is not new to me. Just having as much detailed info as possible is a nice thing, and to be fair I could have emailed to see if I could get exact measurement. Just my thoughts, if they can be of use great. I really appreciate you being an active member here and jumping right in to answer questions about your product.
 
Otrman, I think you make a point that we are not very clear about this. I will get it updated on the website with exact measurements. Good suggestion, much appreciated!

Bikemutt. Our apologies for this. The rails are sold as having flush cup sling mounts built in. We really did not think that people would try to fit these over-top the sling swivel stud, as is a direct replacement. (rail mounted bipod vs stud mounted bipod). However, that is exactly why we try to get involved as close as possible to our customer, by participating in these forums. We will also add this to the documentation.
 
Bikemutt. Our apologies for this. The rails are sold as having flush cup sling mounts built in. We really did not think that people would try to fit these over-top the sling swivel stud, as is a direct replacement. (rail mounted bipod vs stud mounted bipod). However, that is exactly why we try to get involved as close as possible to our customer, by participating in these forums. We will also add this to the documentation.

Customers will do unimaginable things sometimes, even when directed not to :confused:
 
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