Checkering A frontstrap on the cheap

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MP-5

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Looking into checkering a frontstrap on a 1911 Ive come to the conclusion this added feature is very expensive ($250-300) I understand this is a time consuming process and that is why the high cost. No disrespect to smiths out there as some are great artists, but braging that my checkering was done "by hand" by "Joe Gunsmith" means nothing to me. Wouldnt doing it by machine come out more accurate and cost effective? Does anyone out there do checkering my machine? Im looking for a checkered frontstrap that wont cost a third of the gun's value.

P.S. those bolt on frontstraps are out of the question.
 
Machine checkering sometimes costs almost as much as hand checkering since those offering it can get away with it. That's the downside of the free market, I guess. Many people do machine checkering. Probably the most reasonable price that I've seen is from the Springfield Armory Custom Shop. You can download the price list in pdf format from their website, though it's kinda hidden and you have to look for it. IIRC, the price is less than $100 and their checkering looks pretty decent.

EGW offers an option, I believe, where they simply cut out your front strap and weld a pre-checkered one in place. While this sounds crude, you can't tell the difference when they're done. EGW's work is some of the absolute best out there.
 
You could stipple it, or checker it yourself. Browning has the files and the guide.

Nothing makes me more proud than an improvement achieved by myself.
 
You could buy a checkering file and do it yourself by hand. I could be horizontal grooves if your skills are not great ,also do the mainspring housing. Make the checkering flat top otherwise sharp pointed checkering will wear out your clothes if it's a carry gun. My 1911 has mostly horizontal grooves with a diamond pattern..... A machine job would require a milling machine with small V cutter and the horizontal grooves would be difficult.
 
This is not an easy job. It also takes several hours to do. There is no good way to do it by hand that is cheap and easy.

The front of most handgun grips is not a perfect radius, it's an oblique. THis makes it very difficult to program CNC type equipment to work with. Given the fact that, due to polishing and other processes, the radius changes from gun to gun, you compound the difficulty.

Cutting and welding in a piece is fraught with problems also, as you then have to deal with changes in metal alloy, weld marks, clean up, and other things which show up when a finish coat is applied.

One thing often overlooked is the fact that you will have to have the frame refinished when the work is done. This requires the gunsmith to polish the required surfaces after he has removed the old finish and done the specified work. This also is time consuming, and costs money.

Basically it's like this...You want custom, you pay for custom. You don't want it enough to pay for it? Then you don't really want it.

As noted you could do this yourself. However, there is a fairly steep learning curve. Since the average trainee wrecks the first 10 (or more) mainspring housings, and they are much easier to checker, I suggest you plan on devoting time to practice. Nothing looks worse than a poorly done job of metalworking, and (trust me) everyone will notice if the lines are crooked, or the points on the diamonds are not uniform.
 
You can also download the price list from Wilson Combat. They also do machine checkering at reasonable prices.

EGW's welded insert is $175 total, so it's really approaching the price of hand checkering. You can't tell that it's been done after everything is refinished, though. Truly excellent work.

I've been considering either the Springfield Custom Shop or Wilson Combat route for a .38 Super recently.
 
Do you want this for utility or looks?

For looks, pay the money for pro checkering.

If you just want the utility, try a roll of skate board tape. Cut to shape and replace as needed.
 
Looks like Springfield is the lowest! Under 100 bucks! Sweet! Thanks guys!:)
 
Ok, I am confused:confused: <-----me

Can someone post a pic of before and after so I can see what the checkering looks like?
 
I second the skateboard tape!

No effect on value of the gun, not permanent, and is extremely good for purpose. Replaceable as well. It's probably just me, but I hate to permanently modify any gun from it's original condition (Overall). Trigger pull etc is a different story.
 
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