Classic Lee Loader-45ACP-More Trouble Than Worth?

[fireflyfather]

The reason the pistol primers go off with the classic loader, and rifle primers don't (in general), is that most (if not all) of the rifle loaders only neck size. It requires considerably less force to drive the rifle cases out of the die and onto the primer. With a pistol die, you have to tap a lot harder to push out the case/seat the primer. In the course of that, it's a lot easier to pop the primer.

straight-walled cases are full-length sized.

 

[Uncle Chan]

Cheers, Uncle Chan.

Howdy to you, Igbloader. How goes the battle? RV season is just about over up her in the PNW. Time to move back to the house and load on the presses!

 

[rhubarb]

I heartily recommend the Lee Classic Loader. It's how I got started. I loaded up 40 rounds and said, "This sucks eggs." But I already had powder, primer, and bullets; it was too late to go back. I was a reloader.

I found a way to come up with a single stage press and felt like I'd gone from a tricycle to a pickup truck. Seriously, you don't have to have the fanciest and fastest press or best dies, but you'll be a world ahead with an inexpensive single stage press.

 

[lee n. field]

Classic Lee Loader-45ACP-More Trouble Than Worth?

That's it right there, more trouble than it's worth, except for very narrow circumstances.

I have not used the .45. I have used a .38 Special and a .223 Lee Loader. The .38 was a genuine PITA due to the full length resizing. The bottleneck .223 kit was way easier to use.

Where it makes sense is:

1. very little money to spend
2. very little room for any reloading gear.
3. very limited reloading needs

If you want something to throw in your bugout bag, this might be it. Don't forget the hammer.

To my mind, the Lee Hand Press Kit and a Lee die set (to get the scoop, load data and shell holder in with the deal) fits in only a little more room and is way more useful. And you can get into that for about $60 still, I think.

 

[Quoheleth]

To the OP:

If you are doing this to save money, there is one very important step you must do, or you'll wind up spending more money and getting very frustrated very fast.

The kit comes with the "dies" (note: not the same as regular dies) a sheet of load data, and a powder scoop.

When you buy your kit, do not just walk over and buy a bottle of powder and a box of bullets. Open the kit and check the size of the dipper (scoop). It'll be marked on the side in .cc measurements. Now, look at your load data page and cross-reference all of the loads where that dipper can be used.

THIS IS AN EXAMPLE ONLY...DO NOT TAKE IT AS GOSPEL...
Say it's a 1.5 cc. scoop.
STEP 1: Skim down the chart and look at all of the "lines" where a 1.5 cc. scoop is used. Let's say the chart shows the scoop can be used to make a 200gr lead load or a 230 FJM load.
STEP 2: Decide which load do you want to make - the 200 or 230? You decide to make the 230.
Step 3: Now, look at that load in the 1.5cc, 230FMJ category and see what powder it tells you to use. LET'S SAY...that with a 1.5 cc scoop, a 230 FMJ bullet, the powder recommended is SuperShooter [fictitious]. That's the powder to buy. This is important. If you buy the wrong powder, you might not be able to use your scoop for the load you want, meaning a) you have to buy the whole set of dippers (about another $10 investment) or b) buy another bottle of powder (another $20). In other words, don't buy Unique because the salesman likes Unique; don't buy Bullseye because it says "Unsurpassed for .45 target loads" on the bottle. USE YOUR CHART & DIPPER TO FIND THE POWDER!

Step 4: Pick up a package of primers.
Step 5: Pay for stuff & go home to make 1st reloads.

How do I know this? I invested in two powders before I got that right. The first time I just asked the guy at the counter, "What's good in .38 and .357?" He gave me PowderA - not even listed in my Classic Loader chart. Next time, I had done my reading and found out what I wanted. But, I forgot to write it down, so when I drove to the store (hour's drive each way) I guessed as to what I should buy...and got it wrong (powder & scoop didn't match the bullets I ordered). Third time, I wrote it down and got it right. My "inexpensive" reloading start quickly added up because of a really dumb mistake. :banghead:

Q

 

[KodeFore]

I got started with that kit. It's slow, it's noisy, it works.

Honestly for pistol, this does not make a lot of sense.

If you can spring for a hand primer, chamfer tool, and pocket cleaner, it will make your life much easier with this thing.

Definitely get a plastic hammer like they picture in the kit ( harbour freight or sears carry them, around 5$ ) OR a small block of wood and 3 pound hand sledge.

If I had it to do over again, I would skip this thing and go straight to a 4 hole turret press like the one pictured above.

 

[rondog]

Yeah, loading for pistol rounds, consider how much time and effort it will take to pound out a magazine full of cartridges. Might be OK for making rifle ammo, if you don't shoot very much. When I go out plinking, I like to shoot until the ammo runs out, the targets run out, or I'm burnt out, whichever comes first.

Making ammo with a Lee Loader, I'd feel like an Indian making arrows one at a time by hand. JMHO, they're not for me.

 

[KodeFore]

FIRST Get the Lee precision reloading Book.

Before buying any reloading i STRONGLY recommend you buy or borrow The Lee reloading manual. You do not need the loading data, this comes with the kit.
The advantage to the book is the first 10 or so chapters do a great job of explaining reloading in general but even better they give detailed instructions and explanations for all the Lee Precision reloading equipment, including the Lee Classic loaders.

 

[lazyeye]

I used the whackamole kit for about 200 rounds. Then bought a handpress and didn't look back.

 

[444]

I started loading with a Lee Loader and loaded thousands of rounds with it. I presently own a half dozen of them and occasionally still use them just for the heck of it.

I disagree with most of the posts on this thread.
If I had it to do over again, I would either buy the Lee Loader and then get a serious progressive press, or just get a serious progressive press.
For loading .45 ACP I would not waste my time using a single stage press. Yes, I own a couple single stage presses. Yes, I have loaded 10s of thousands of rounds of handgun ammo on them, mostly .45 ACP. That is the reason I have the opinion I do: I have been there, done that, learned something from the experience.

 

[Vacek]

Talking about buggin-out.

Whenever I travel by car I have my 45 Old Model Vaquero, my Classic Lee Loader...I've added the primer cleaner, chamfer cleaner and case length gauge with cutter. They all fit very handy in the case along with the original Whakamo Lee Sizer for .452, and a case expander that came with an earlier kit. All in 1 Lee Loader plastic case.

That (not the firearms) fits into my 50 Caliber ammo can with a lb. of Red Dot, 100 precast .452-255-RF, a 2 hole 452-255-RF, Lee ladel and little Lee Lead Pot. Also a small bottle of Alox and 1000 large pistol primers.

It also contains the orginal 12 Gauge Reloader with some fiber wads and nitro disks, + 200 primers, 10 lbs lead shot (#5).

Last but not least my 312-180-RF one holer with 100 gas checks, .303 Lee Classic reloader with whakamo case expander and case length gauge. 200 Large Rifle Primers

Also the Lee scoops in a ziplock.

25 Hulls
30 .45 Starline Brass
20 .303 once fired 303 Brass