Cleaner: Brake vs Carburetor

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Cleaner: Brake vs Carburetor

1 - Which is better for removing oil from firearms?

2 - Can either of them pose a health problem by contact or inhalation?

3 - Can either of them harm the plastic or polymer parts found on guns?

4 - Can either of them discolor the finish on a firearm?
 
They haven't made real carb cleaner since the 80's. That stuff would blister your skin and peel linoleum. I would never use it on a gun. Today it's called throttle body cleaner and is intended to remove carbon. Not as nasty as the old carb cleaner but I still wouldn't use it on a gun.
Brake clean I have used on guns for years, never a issue. But be aware it leaves a VERY clean surface so reoil immediately.
 
I personally like the throttle body cleaner. I feel it is best for cleaning carbon off my revolvers. I will use it along with Hoppes #9 and PB Blaster for most of my cleaning needs on the METAL parts of my firearms. It cleans carbon and powder residue off well, it degreases better than break cleaner and dries twice as fast IMHO. I do not use it on any plastic parts or stock finishes as it will probably melt them away. As noted with break cleaner make sure that you lightly oil what ever you clean ASAP after to keep it from rusting quickly.DO useit in a ventilated area as the fumes will mess you up for sure otherwise.
 
In my experience, carb cleaner is far 'stronger' in all respects than brake cleaner. It is too aggressive for me to be comfortable with. I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Works great.

Any of these products will dry out your skin significantly. It is a good idea to just stay away from them, with respect to bodily contact. While I cannot speak to the carcinogenic properties of any of these products; I can tell you that carb cleaner in the eye hurts. Those small crevices will shoot that big blast of cleaner right back at you.
 
Have you ever tried Simple Green? Yea, sounds weird, but it works great! it is very impressive how well it removes oil and grit from the metals pores.

I never thought to use it with firearms, but one of the instructors from the American gunsmithing Institute recommended it. It does a much better job then any of the other cleaners I have tried, and doesn't burn if it gets into any cuts.
 
Both have some serious VOCs, I use 90% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). Won't hurt the finish, won't damage most plastics, won't kill brain cells ( unless you drink it). Works great, if you really need something to cut cosmoline step up to kerosene, but alcohol seems to work fine on the filn of rust inhibitors on new guns.
 
I've been using Simple Green on my duty AR for years. I usually spray it down and let it soak for a while, maybe even overnight, and clean like I would with any other cleaner. I rinse the residue off with brake cleaner, oil and reassemble.
 
I have used a lot of stuff over the years.
In the machine shop I use the Brake parts cleaner. Its cheap, easy to obtain and works great.

Do not use this stuff in a closed area (your little gun room) or indoors for that matter.

The vapors are harmful (read the lable)

Any harsh chemicals need to be used with care and in a well ventilated area.

I grew up on hoppies (spelling ??) nasty smelling stuff but it worked.

There are many things that will cut grease and oil.

Now if I have, lets say, a 1911 all apart and can dry it well, HOY SOAP AND WATER is my favorite.

Now this is no BS here, I used to shoot IPSC with a local cop that would strip his Glock and put the frame and such through the dishwasher.

Yesssss the dishwasher. Blow it dry, lube it and off to the rodeo again :eek:

Just read the lables on any chemicals you use and use properly.

Any of the harsh chemicals are bad to get on the skin for any duration.

I have never seen the brake parts cleaner have any effect on the polymer framed guns or the metal finishes. (most current blueing and other metal finishes are really tough)

A fine finished wood stock, I would not get any of this stuff on these items.

Depending on the finish, you can never know until its too late.

Plastic, depending, as I said, I ahve never seen any issues with the Polymer frames (Glock, Spring-XD etc)

Good luck

Snowy
 
x2 on a dishwasher. I carried a 5906 for nearly 10 years and washed in the dishwasher. I never tried it with the Glock that replaced the S&W. I was afraid the frame would warp. All I did with the 5906 was lock the slide back and run it thru. It would come out dry. I'd just oil it and load it back up.
 
Brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) for oil, grease and general gunk. Carb cleaner for carbon. No demons have stripped any finishes, melted any plastic parts or caused stress cracks in the steel components. I recommend you wear gloves and don't breathe the fumes.

Not to derail, but has anyone used a sonic cleaner? I had an opportunity to use a large commercial version a while back. I want one.
 
Thanks! Plus a more specific question.

Thank you all for your responses. As usual I got more than I bargained for!

I’ve use non chlorinated brake cleaner for years on my all metal guns (removing the stocks, of course) but the recent purchase of a Glock left some questions.

Specifically, the plastic/polymer and whatever the finish is on the slide is my concern. I won’t be using anything but Hoppes on the frame, but that still leaves the slide. Does anyone know what the Glock finish is on the slide and can any of the mentioned cleaners affect it?
 
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B-12 for rinsing assembled parts/guns.

MP-7 or Slip 2000 gun cleaner for doing parts that can be rinsed with hot water.

All of these will strip oil, especially the soap based cleaners.
 
Simple green is hard on aluminum.

If left long enough it eats into the surface leaving pits and rough spots.

Using a dishwasher to clean guns is putting lead residue all over your dishes.
 
Simple green is hard on aluminum.
Click to expand...
I used Simple Green for many years as a condenser/evaporator cleaner with no harm at all. I mix it with water 50/50 and pre-soak the aluminum and copper refrigeration components. After about 15 minutes I steam clean/pressure wash it all out followed with a cold water rinse. Never had any metal damage.
 
Carb cleaner if you feel it is necessary.

Not really relevant to most shooters, but this article is a must read for anyone who does any welding. Tells how brake cleaner + argon + heat = phosgene, a nerve gas.

I usually stick with the least amount of chemicals to get the job done, based on reactions like these, or more accurately, because of the reactions I don't know about.
 
WD - 40 is awesome at cutting cosmoline! But afterward clean and apply gun oil. I would not put Brake or Carb cleaner on my guns... I stick with Hoppes and Remington products to clean my guns.

Break Free is awesome products as well, they do a tremendous job!

I would think that one should be real careful in todays market of Polymer and Plastic guns! I dont have any of them, not my cup of tea!, but maybe a worthy mention when considering carb cleaners etc.
 

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jimmyraythomason said:
I used Simple Green for many years as a condenser/evaporator cleaner with no harm at all. I mix it with water 50/50 and pre-soak the aluminum and copper refrigeration components. After about 15 minutes I steam clean/pressure wash it all out followed with a cold water rinse. Never had any metal damage.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately the chemical reactions that cause this are beyond me, but I DO know from personal experience that simple green causes anodized aluminum wheels/rims to appear 'cloudy' over time. I have no idea if this cosmetic effect seen elsewhere would mean anything with regards to material strength in a firearm, but it is something to consider.
 
check the MSDS on Gunscrubber and Berryman's brake parts cleaner Part number 1420. Same formula.
 
I DO know from personal experience that simple green causes anodized aluminum wheels/rims to appear 'cloudy' over time.
Click to expand...
I can see that happening. I used it on the same fleet of refrigerated trailers for the 10 period of the lease. No damage occured,however,appearance of the metal was never a concern. It COULD make a difference on the finish of a firearm. If in doubt,don't as they say.
 
Simple Green is a degreaser/general purpose solvent. Brake and carburetor cleaners are for removing carbon. None of 'em will remove copper or lead fouling. All of 'em require oiling the metal after use.
 
Used a pressure washer in Okinawa (steam jenny for the old salts ). Worked great and gave the armorers fits!!!!:neener:
 
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