Cleaning A 1911

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el44vaquero

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Always been a revolver man, but after firing a friend's Springfield 1911, I decided to get me one. I am just about to get my hands on a S&W 1911. I have never owned a semi before and would like any help anyone could give me on how to properly clean it after use. Also would like to know what kind of up-keep I need to do.

Thanks Folks
 
You can view the disassembly chart for the 1911 on
Midwayusa.com. As for tips, I can just let you know what my routine is.

I usually don't get to clean and lube right after a trip to the range. So usually the next day I disassemble, clean, re-asessemble, and lube. I know a few guys who don't clean their autoloaders at all. :eek: I don't know that I would be too trustworthy of a gun that hasn't been cleaned in 2,000 or so rounds.

Go ahead get your gun, and make sure you buy lots of ammo!!! :D
 
in my experience with my springfield i have noticed that if you clean them after you shoot and keep it lightly oiled, they work like a charm. :D if you dont get to clean it right away though, dont worry.
 
Reason for immediate cleaning of old V. New ammo.

The reason cleaning immediately used to be needed was that ammo was corrosive. No longer so (usually). Check to verify ammo is non-corrosive, and if so, clean asap. But, immediately is not needed. Personally, I am quite picky about cleaning. Especially in break-in period, I prefer to clean every 50 rounds. Then, after break-in, I will clean every 100 rounds, adding oil at 50 rounds. That's just me. It is NOT needed. Most shooters will say clean every 150 to 200 rounds. Depends, really, on how tight the 1911 is. Good luck.

Doc2005
 
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Much depends on what you shoot.

I shoot a LOT of lead bullet reloads, so I probably clean more often and more throughly than I would if I shot all jacketed ammo. Nature of the beast, y'know? :p

Amount of shooting matters, as well. With modern factory ammo, I'll shoot a box or so and not even bother to clean for a while, if it's not an actual carry gun.

Usually, after shooting ANY lead handloads, I field strip the pistol. I clean the barrel and throughly brush the standing breech, feed ramp, rails, and lock-up areas. I wipe things down throughly, lightly grease the rail interfaces, and re-assemble. I try to do a detail strip and make the entire arm spotless every 500 rounds or so. The interaction of bullet lube and powder cause a lot of gunk to be carried around in the gasses, and these build up over time. The additional maiintenance is simply the price to be paid for the economy of lead bullet use.

During the rare periods when I shoot a lot of jacketed ammo, I don't field strip until I've fired at least 100 rounds. I would detail strip after a thousand or so.

Best,
Johnny
 
Field strip you remove the slide from the frame, and the barrel and bushing from the slide. The rest of the slide and frame are cleaned as a "unit". Detail strip, you go ahead and pull the firing pin stop, firing pin and spring, and extractor and clean them seperatel: you alo remove the grips and disasseble the frame - you don't stop until the only two peices of metal that are still connected are the hammer strut and hammer, the plunger tube and frame, the slide and sights, and the barrel link and barrel - this requires taking apart the mainspring housing, removing the lockwork, and pulling the plunger spring out.
 
I'm With My THR Friend Johnny Guest On This One!

With the price of jacketed bullets soaring, I don't get a chance too shoot
many of them; instead relying on the hard cast types from Magnus. I use
mostly L-SWC's in all my guns; yes, including .45 ACP's. When I return
from a day at the range, I'm in a pattern that demands that I clean and
lubricate all weapons used ASAP. That's just me, the old military way! :D

I detail strip all weapons upon return, and clean them accordingly. Once
I'm assured of their cleanliness, I lube them (where necessary) with good
ole' Break Free C-L-P. I might add, I've been doing it this way for many,
many years; and NO weapon has ever let me down in time of need. :uhoh:
 
Field strip vs. Detail strip

Field strip - -
Draw slide to the rear until the disassembly notch lines up with the small tab atop the slide stop. Maintain a good hold on the slide and press the slide stop out from the right. Ease the slide forward until it comes off the front of the frame.

Remove recoil spring and guide to the rear. Turn the slide so that the muzzle points upward. Rotate the barrel bushing until it can be pulled out the front of the slide. Shake the recoil spring plug out the front of the slide. Turn the barrel link so it points toward rthe muzzle and pull the barrel out of the slide from the front.

This completes field stripping. Fouling may be wiped or brushed from the frame feed ramp, the standing breech, and the locking area of the slide. Barrel is free so the bore may be cleaned from the rear and the exterior wiped clean.

I could describe how to detail strip the frame assembly, but reassembly is a bit more complicated than for field strip. Normally, the frame is not disassembled, and this is seldom required if only jacketed factory ammunition is fired.

Reassembly - -
Replace barrel in slide. Replace recoil spring and its guide in the slide, with the barrel link turned toward the muzzle. Run the slide onto the frame rails from the front, all the way to the rear. Look through the slide catch and align the barrel link with the hole. Replace the slide stop axle through the hole, capturing the barrel link. The slide stop must be pressed into the frame cut just so, that the detent plunger holds it in place. A narrow, flat blade screwdriver is a help in doing this. Replace the barrel bushing in the front of the slide, turning it between coils of the recoil spring, and leaving it turned to the other side. Place the recoil spring cap on the recoil spring and press the assembly all the way in. Turn the bushing so that it captures the recoil spring plug.

Anyway, if you do acquire a 1911-type, you'll want to get at least one decent reference book or manual.

Best,
Johnny
 
Hmm - I always turn the barrel bushing and remove the recoil plug and spring BRFORE pulling the slide off the frame - in my experience, you can kink the recoil spring otherwise, plus it is easier to line up the disassembly notch without having to fight spring pressure.
 
VERY IMPORTANT - Do not, I say again, do not try to install the recoil spring and barrel bushing with that part of the 1911 pointing at your face!!!! Don't ask. Just let it be said it's not an easy operation putting those pieces back together. Pain can be involved if you slip. Nough said. ;)
 
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