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Cleaning a revolver...

Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by Mojo-jo-jo, Dec 27, 2006.

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  1. Mojo-jo-jo

    Mojo-jo-jo Member

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    I have a really nasty Ruger GP100, stainless finish. There's lots of powder residue on the cylinder, back end of the barrel and the inside of the topstrap.

    What are some suggestions to clean this residue off? I've tried Hoppe's 9, but it doesn't seem to make a dent in the muck. Bronze wool? Bronze brush in a electric drill? Any recommendations?

    Thanks in advance!
    Mojojojo
     
  2. gpr

    gpr Member

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    what works for me....clean and dry, then use a hard pencil eraser...gpr
     
  3. DragonFire

    DragonFire Member

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    They make a Lead removal cloth that should handle alot of that. Can't be used on blued guns, but is great on stainless. It's usually available at most places that sell any gun cleaning supplies
     
  4. Tylden

    Tylden Member

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    The lead removal cloth that DragonFire speaks of works great on stainless. Also, there is a product called Flitz polish that works even better. I've used both products on my stainless steel revolvers and I highly recommend them. Either should be available at most any decent gun store. Good luck :)
     
  5. Crimp

    Crimp Member

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    +1 on Flitz. That's what I use for my stainless steel revolvers. Works great.
     
  6. Headless

    Headless Member

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    Sorry to hijack; what would you guys use on a finished gun that isn't stainless? Would the stuff mentioned work on a S&W642 without damaging the finish?
     
  7. dpote

    dpote Member

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    I use Hoppe's Elite on both blued and stainless revolvers.
    Cleans the face of the cylinder very well.

    Dave
     
  8. JMB

    JMB Member

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    +1 for Flitz

    +1 for Flitz

    Works for stainless and blued guns.
     
  9. ZeSpectre

    ZeSpectre Member

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    If you are talking a stainless gun and layers of crap, I'd start with a 3:1 mix of HOT Water and Simple Green concentrate. Let the gun soak for a bit and scrub well with nylon brushes. If there are any marks left a pencil eraser is good for final touch-up.

    Make sure you rinse the gun VERY well afterwards, simple green left on metal can be pretty corrosive, especially on spring steel.
     
  10. Beachcomber

    Beachcomber Member

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    Stainless Steel Brush

    Try one of the stainless steel brushes that looks like a toothbrush. (They also come in brass.) You can get them at your local gun dealers in the firearms cleaning equipment area. Use it with Hoppes solvent to scrub the top frame area above the forcing cone, cylinder face and whatever other areas that have a heavy carbon/lead buildup.

    DO NOT USE THEM ON BLUE STEEL FIREARMS AS IT WILL NOT ONLY REMOVE THE LEAD BUILD UP ... IT WILL ALSO REMOVE THE FINISH. :eek:
     
  11. baker

    baker Member

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    +1, beachcomber
     
  12. LHB1

    LHB1 Member

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    For stainless guns: Brush really dirty spots with old toothbrush and Shooters Choice Bore Cleaner. Then use Lead Remover cloth. Works like magic!

    For non-stainless guns: OMIT Lead Remover cloth. Have heard it will remove bluing but can't say from experience.

    Good shooting and be safe.
    LB
     
  13. JohnKSa

    JohnKSa Member

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    The bronze "toothbrush style" brushes should work in conjunction with some normal solvent. Be careful about using any metal brushes on the "finished" part of a stainless frame, they can leave tiny scratch marks that will disturb the uniformity of the "finish". Under the topstrap and on the front of the cylinder shouldn't be a problem.
     
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