Cleaning a Revolver?

[Spieler]

I'm new to revolvers and am wondering what areas need special attention when it comes to cleaning and lubrication. The gun is a S&W M10. Does the cylinder crane need to be lubed? How often, if ever, should I remove the side plate? Thanks for any input.

 

[Old Fuff]

First, you want a .38 caliber cleaning kit and a screwdriver that fits the screws. A screwdriver set an be purchased from Brownells at: www.brownells.com

Note that there is a small screw at the front of the sideplate. Carefully remove it and put it in a container so it doesn't get lost.

Unlatch and open the cylinder. At this point you can slide it and the yoke forward and off of the frame.

Pull the yoke forward and off of the cylinder assembly.

You can now use your cleaning rod and brush to scrub out the chambers and bore. Follow with patches and solvent, and then lightly oil.

Put some solvent on a small piece of cloth and wipe off the exterior surfaces. Pay particular attention to the back of the barrel, under the topstrap, and around the breech face, Also wipe off the exterior surfaces of the cylinder and yoke.

Cock the hammer, put 2 drops of oil down into the slot (and no more) and double-action it a few times to spread the oil.

Put a drop of oil on the yoke barrel, spread it around, and slide it back onto the cylinder.

Slide the cylinder assembly and yoke back onto the frame and replace the screw you removed.

Rub all of the exterior surfaces with a lightly oiled rag, dry any access, and you're done.

No, you don't have to remove the sideplate simply to clean the revolver.

 

[Standing Wolf]

I'll second Old Fluff's advice, and add a few suggestions.

It's worthwhile to let the cylinder soak in a small jar of your favorite cleaning solution while you clean the frame and barrel: it makes cleaning the cylinder bores and face of the cylinder a lot easier.

I always remove the stocks from any gun I'm cleaning: some solvents are injurious to wood finishes, and some aren't. Easier not to find out which is which the proverbial "hard way."

Nothing beats a Lewis lead remover. Visit http://www.brownells.com for all the facts.

Every fourth or fifth trip to the range, I remove the side plate, strip the revolver all the way down to the frame, clean everything, oil it, reassemble it, and make sure it's working entirely correctly. I'm reasonably sure Brownells carries Jerry Kuhnhausen's The S & W Revolver; a shop manual. It's well worth the modest cost. My advice to revolver newbies is never even to think about disassembling a Smith & Wesson revolver without a copy of this book.

A week after I clean a gun, I run a couple dry patches through the barrel. It's amazing what shows up. After swabbing out the extra-extra-extra-last crud, I re-oil the bore.

If you take good care of it, your model 10 should still be a great shooter a century from now.

 

[sm]

Guys nailed it!
Only need to mention one thing: Do Not Pry the sideplate off!!
If and when you get to this point. If not sure, seek the adivse, have someone show, or read manual. Don't Pry, keep screws in order.

 

[P95Carry]

Well .... I think it's been covered!

But oh - the side plate .... the mysterious cover of all those ''workings'' ........ LEAVE it alone!! And if ..... when and if .... you wish to remove same .... use the tried and tested method of gently tapping with a hide mallet ... to release what should be an excellent fit ......

Lube?? ..... Minimal at all times. Enough but not too much! We're almost talkin molecular films here.

 

[Yo]

More tips

The only things I would add--

1. To remove stubborn lead buildup around the forcing cone and top strap, Shooters' Choice lead remover solution works well. Let it soak in and then scrub with a stiff brush (not stainless)

2. To remove the rings on the cylinder face, use one of the Yellow lead-away cloths. Nothing works better.

 

[Old Fuff]

Yo:

Be aware that the S&W model 10 is either blued (most common) or nickel plated, and that the Yellow Lead-Away cloth will attack both finishes. It's fine for stainless steel guns, and cleaning the bore and chambers on others. But the manufacturer warns that they should not be used on the exterior parts of blued handguns.