Cleaning lead of Ruger GP100

[Katitmail]

Just started to shoot this revolver, barrel leads a little, but there is lead deposits on front of the cylinder and on a forcing cone.

Started to research what is the best way to clean this stuff. Came up with Lewis lead remover, Chore boy trick. Those work on a barrel. Chore boy does work and removes most of what's inside a barrel.

But what about cylinder face? Found reference to "Lead removal cloth". Bought 2 different kinds. Both say not to use on blueing. I was like "Aha! That must be some abrasive cloth that harder than lead but softer than stainless". After trying it I realized it works chemically. This cloth covered with some thick stuff and it eats lead. So you don't rub with it, you more like spread it and then rub it off together with lead. After this chemical used up and patch get's black - it doesn't work anymore.

Now to the question:

I don't like to use it on a cloth the way it is. Is there any lead removal "paste" ? It would be much easier to use. Take a little, spread over cylinder face and forcing cone. Let it sit. Wipe it off. Should be more economical too.. Naybe I can even use it inside a barrel to remove all the tiny bits leftover after chore boy.

 

[SunnySlopes]

Step 1. Buy reloading equipment. Step 2. Buy reloading components sans bullets. Step 3. Buy nothing but plated or jacketed bullets.

Seriously, if your revolver is stainless, the lead removal cloth is a fine way to go. And I've never heard of a paste such as you describe.

If there is such a thing, Brownells will carry it. Otherwise, just stick with the cloth?

 

[RealGun]

The first thing I would do is measure those cylinder throats. They should be slightly larger than the slug diameter of the barrel. It sounds like you are shaving lead like mad before the bullet gets to the barrel. Also watch for oversize bullets, especially hard ones that won't so easily bump back up when in the barrel.

 

[Katitmail]

I with I had something to compare with. I don't really get lot of lead, just curious how to completely remove it in a best way.

I'm going to ream throats and cut 11 degree forcing cone but I think leading is not that bad right now..

 

[RealGun]

Chore Boy would be comparable to the bronze screen of the Lewis Lead Remover. Only good on stainless though.

Shooter's Choice Lead Remover (liquid) might help.

 

[BCRider]

Just to be clear are we talking about the black deposits and maybe the dark silvery grey rings around the throat openings? Or are you getting actual buildups of lead chunks that come off as lumps? I ask because two folks I know call the soft black powder fouling "lead". They know it's wrong and that the powder is just powder fouling but they just can't break the habit of calling it lead.

 

[rswartsell]

When truly trying to de-lead a revolver, (chambers, barrel, forcing cone) this has been the preferred system for years;

http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...ead-remover/lewis-lead-remover-prod21587.aspx

Removing powder residue and burn rings is another animal.

 

[Katitmail]

Just to be clear are we talking about the black deposits and maybe the dark silvery grey rings around the throat openings? Or are you getting actual buildups of lead chunks that come off as lumps? I ask because two folks I know call the soft black powder fouling "lead". They know it's wrong and that the powder is just powder fouling but they just can't break the habit of calling it lead.

I'm new to revolvers thing so forgive me

Cylinder face - yes, after you wash black carbon there is "splash" looking grayish stuff around each chamber which I though is like melted lead. This stuff didn't come out with Hoppes 9 but did with this lead removal cloth.

Anyway, what kind of chemical is on this cloth? Can I buy it separately like gel or something?

When I pushed patches from this cloth through the barrel - it always comes out black even though I don't see much leading.

 

[BCRider]

OK, now we're on the same page.

And yeah, there's a ring of deposited lead around the mouths of the chambers on my revolvers as well. It never build up. It's just there and it's self limiting. I gave up worrying about it. As long as the black comes off and I can't feel a buildup when I drag a fingernail over these rings it's simply cosmetic. The day it gets thick enough that I can feel it I know I'll have something to worry about. I have an agreement with the rings that I leave them alone and they don't get all thick and bind up the guns.... So far this has worked out well for both parties...

By now it should be pretty apparent that I'm one of those folks that only cleans their guns if things get sticky or when they are so dirty that their own makers would turn them out of the house. For my lead shooting revolvers this means roughly every 250 to 300 rounds. For jacketed bullet guns it's more up around 500 to 600 rounds.

I also prefer blued guns so that cloth never appealed to me for the obvious reason you mentioned.

The black you get on the cloth after going through the bore is likely just the powder fouling. Or are you saying that you clean until the patches are clear and THEN push the cloth through and it comes out black? That would suggest that you're getting at least some lead buildup It may be just in the edges of the rifling but even that is more than I usually see. I've had leading but it's never been anything consistent.

 

[RealGun]

I still wonder about the cause, never mind how to remove it. I also still wonder what the deposit element actually is. If it's lead particles, wouldn't that suggest a mechanical problem? I repeat that I would first measure throats, barrel slug, and bullets. Chamfering the forcing cone sounds logical, but I would be sure of the need for that before grinding on a good barrel. It could cover up a more basic problem...one usually associated with use of lead bullets.

 

[rswartsell]

If you watch a video of a firing revolver, especially in low light much of the mystery of these rings is revealed. With every shot a fireball of burning powder and hot gas is expelled and the throats of the chambers are ground zero, the source of the fireball.

The rings are powder residue primarily, glassed over and implanted in the micro irregularities of the surface of the cylinder face. Imagine the violent travel and heat of the bullet and you realize that some amount of lead or copper is included in the debris. As BCRider has observed it is self limiting.

 

[RealGun]

Brand and product name of these lead removal cloths? First step in tracing magic ingredient.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

I still wonder about the cause, never mind how to remove it. I also still wonder what the deposit element actually is. If it's lead particles, wouldn't that suggest a mechanical problem? I repeat that I would first measure throats, barrel slug, and bullets. Chamfering the forcing cone sounds logical, but I would be sure of the need for that before grinding on a good barrel. It could cover up a more basic problem...one usually associated with use of lead bullets.

Howdy

It is a combination of carbon and lead. When the powder ignites and pushes the bullet out of the case, a small portion of the rear surface of a lead bullet gets vaporized. The vaporized lead combines with carbon in the powder gasses. As the bullet passes the barrel/cylinder gap a portion of the lead/carbon mix gets blasted onto the front face of the cylinder under very high pressure. It is completely normal, it is not indicative of any problem. The gasses blasting out of the gap are under very high pressure and they simply leave a deposit on the front of the cylinder. Since the deposit is blasted there under high pressure it is difficult to remove.

A great deal has been written about removing these carbon rings from the front of the cylinder, and a great many products have been used. These rings are the toughest bit of fouling to remove on any revolver because of the pressure involved in putting them there.

Removing these rings is akin to Sisyphus rolling the rock up the hill, only to watch it roll down again. No matter what you do, as soon as you fire the gun again, the rings will be blasted back onto the surface and will be just as difficult to remove.

I agree with BCRider about carbon rings on cylinder faces. I stopped trying to clean them off a long time ago. What gets left behind after a good scrubbing with Hoppes is not going to hurt anything. Once you have your first dozen or so revolvers, you will stop worrying about carbon rings too.

P.S. If you really want to avoid the rings and leading, try shooting Black Powder. There is never any deposit left on my cylinders or in my bores after I clean my guns of Black Powder residue.

 

[Katitmail]

Brand and product name of these lead removal cloths? First step in tracing magic ingredient.

1. Pro Shot Gun Care Lead Cleaning Cloth

2. Kleenbore Gun Care Lead Away Gun Cloth


First one seems to be working little better

 

[beag_nut]

1. Pro Shot Gun Care Lead Cleaning Cloth

2. Kleenbore Gun Care Lead Away Gun Cloth


First one seems to be working little better

Now that you know the product names, you can google them, get onto their websites (I saw, but forgot to copy the first one's), and then literally ask them for a link to their MSDS. That's the Material Safety Data Sheet, for virtually anything containing added chemicals which can come in contact with a human worker. Per federal law, they MUST provide that info to you. That info will include the names of the chemicals in their product. That doesn't mean the chemical will be easy to get, but you'll know what it is.

 

[Drail]

Back in the day most of my revolvers were stainless and I used a single edge razor blade to lightly "shave" the face of the cylinder (and I mean lightly - one pass). Now all of my guns are blued carbon steel and I don't worry about any lead or discoloration on the cylinder face. Constantly scrubbing it off is a waste of time. It doesn't hurt anything.

 

[Katitmail]

The black you get on the cloth after going through the bore is likely just the powder fouling. Or are you saying that you clean until the patches are clear and THEN push the cloth through and it comes out black? That would suggest that you're getting at least some lead buildup It may be just in the edges of the rifling but even that is more than I usually see. I've had leading but it's never been anything consistent.

Yes, after cleaning with Hoppe 9, then pushing chore boy through (and getting lead out), cleaning with Hoppe 9 after, dry patches. All come out clean. Then I put this cloth through and it gets out black, so it get's more out.


I decided to do the same thing - clean cylinder face with hoppe 9 and not worry about those splashes. It doesn't affect anything, so why worry about it. At least I know I can get it out if I need to.

 

[4v50 Gary]

I have a stainless Security Six. I used to use Lead Away or a stainless steel brush to scrub the cylinder face. Mind you, I won't use a stainless steel wire brush in the bore.