Cleaning off lube.

[ed dixon]

Been using old t-shirts after sizing, wiping maybe two at a time. Know some folks tumble briefly to remove lube. Any other methods? Do some of the spray lubes dry enough that cleaning isn't necessary?

Sorry. I'm referring to straightwall cases here, not inside lubing of bottlenecks.

 

[Paul "Fitz" Jones]

The least expensive method

Is sprinkling a bit of paint thinner on yout t shirt and wipe. It depends on the volume of ammo loaded. I have wiped like that to using a cement mixer with ammo, corn cobs and some larger quantity of paint thinner to do the job as a commercial reloader.

What ever works for you with the time and expense you are willing to pay.

John Paul

 

[blowsomethingup]

I usually run at least 100 rounds at once so I deprime,size,prime and tumble,then charge and seat.
I prefer carbide dies,but when you need to use lube,I prefer to tumble,unless only running a few test rounds.

 

[Paul "Fitz" Jones]

Tumbling order

My tumbling order is walnut or apricot pit hulls comes first with a bit of paint thinner, then load with a dab of automotive STP in my carbide sizing die in a Star Universal reloader and finish loading then tumble live in corn cobs with a bit of kerosene then shoot it.

John Paul

 

[cheygriz]

I tumble live like Paul, except I use mineral spirits in the corncob.

 

[jacks308]

A clean cement mixer (really) and a bushel of attrition milled corn cobs . I really ain't gonna wipe down four or five thousand rounds a year for fun
It's been working well for several years now .

Jack

 

[6530]

I use a bucket of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Dump the lubed cases in, swish around, and them dump out onto a towel.

Let dry for a few minutes & done.

 

[Johnny Guest]

6530 wrote:

I use a bucket of isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Dump the lubed cases in, swish around, and them dump out onto a towel.

Let dry for a few minutes & done.

I think I'd let 'em dry for more than "a few minutes." No flame intended, but I fear the procedure you outline would yield some very poor results, sir. Isopropyl alcohol is 30 per cent water, and while the alcohol would make it evaporate more rapidly, it wouldn't be instantaneous. I'd either let em dry overnight, or dump 'em in a cake pan and stick 'em in a 250 degree oven for a half-hour or so. Not hot enough to alter the brass, but above boiling point of water.

I would be uneasy loading cases with ANY residual droplets of water. Not that I think they wouldn't fire at all, but that the powder burn would surely vary from cartridge to cartridge.

Back when I competed heavily in IPSC, loading huge numbers of .45 ACP LRNs with old style bullet lube, I did something similar to what Paul "Fitz" Jones suggested. I took a large bath towel, sprinkled either GI bore solvent or paint thinner on it, poured about 50 rounds at a time in, folded the towel lengthways, held either end and agitated it back and forth several times. Then put 'em in a dry towel and did same thing. Much less time consuming than wiping individual rounds, and they worked well.

Nowadays, I use commercially cast bullets with hard lube, loaded on a Dillon 550B. My ammo is not nearly so messy.

Interesting thread--Sorry I missed it first time around.

Best,
Johnny

 

[6530]

Johnny - you're right. I should have posted with some additional clarity.

I don't use the 70% isopropyl, but rather the 90%-99% that's available (varies by where I buy and sometimes when). This evaporates much faster than the 70/30 alcohol/water mix.

After pouring on a towel to let dry for a few minutes, my next step is to clean the primer pockets. Since I prep brass in large batches this takes a while, so by the time I'm done with that the cases are dry inside & out. Usuall overnight.

You make all good points - I wouldn't want to fire with any residual moisture in the case either.

Thanks.

 

[Jeeper]

I use Hornady ONe shot and it basically dries so you cant tell it is there after loading.

 

[blades67]

I only lube bottle neck cases, and I toss those into the vibratory tumbler for a few minutes.