Cleaning rifle with brake cleaner?

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hawkeye10

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I was looking at cans of non chlorinated break cleaner today and at about $4 per can it seems high. I also saw that they had a gallon of brake cleaner for $20. Has anyone bought a gallon and put in a squirt bottle and used it to clean your rifle? Looks like it would be cheaper. Don
 
I have been using the same spray can of $1.99 NAPA brake cleaner for guns I work on for about 3-4 years now. The price of spray cans isn't a concern as I don't go through it that fast.
A gallon should be a lifetime supply.

I only use it on very dirty crusty old guns, or .22's that have never been apart before.

It simply isn't needed for everyday cleaning chores.

rc
 
Got to remember that brake cleaner removes everything including oil out of steel. Re-oil quickly or things will rust real fast. Ask my cousin about his Uzi.:eek:
 
MSDS Material Safety Data Sheet
Section 1 – Product and Company Identification
Product Name: Brake Parts Cleaner

Ingredients:

Dichloromethane 60-70% (It is widely used as a paint stripper and a degreaser)

Tetrachloroethylene 5-15% (used to degrease metal parts in the automotive and other metalworking industries)

Toluene 20-30% (Toluene is a common solvent, able to dissolve paints)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dichloromethane

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetrachloroethylene

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toluene
 
Most brake cleaner sold in consumer accessible stores have been non-chlorinated for years.

I use the stuff from Walmart about $2 per can.

As has been said, while its a pretty good cleaner it also degreases so you need to lube and apply a surface protecterent -- Break-Free CLP has always worked well for me.

Also test plastic and wood finishes in a small inconsequential area as it eats some finishes -- the plastic grips on CZ pistols comes to mind, as does the varnish on some WASR models.


The stuff is a real time saver with my Ruger pistols, but other than spraying a bit down the gas tube of an AR once it a while, I don't use it all that much on rifles.

If you don't belong to the NRA
Don't come whining about it when the next Gun Control Act gets passed!
+1 rcmodel.
 
Thanks Wally I will try looking at Walmart. $2 sounds a lot better than $4. I have been using Break Free powder blast and then Rem oil. $2 brake cleaner would be cheaper. Don
 
Gun Scrubber is what I used in the army. Now I just use Hoppes 9 or CLP for cleaning. That Gun Scrubber was AWESOME when cleaning a SAW, especially after several thousand rounds, but a can only got two cleanings out of it. It was okay on the plastic on the SAW, but it would melt other plastics and would dissolve the rubber ACOG covers.

That was when a guy brought his pressure washer in. It was found out that very hot water and shaving cream actually worked really well. But hot water will do exactly the same thing as the solvets will --strip all the oil off making rust easier.

Plus, oil builds up in the surface of metal. Metal is also porous. Too much deep cleaning can and will cause parts to become brittle over time. I've seen an M4 bolt fail from the inside out from this. That was when our unit stopped doing the white glove test years ago and switched to a CLP only policy, and having "dirty" weapons was okay.

So if you only do a deep cleaning every so often, a can of Gun Scrubber lasts a long time. But a soak in hoppes works real well too, and it won't damage the metal.

At NTC they also had this big bay for cleaning weapons. All weapons. They had these parts cleaning sinks that sat on top of 55gal drums and were the same thing that you'd find in an auto shop. They use a parts cleaner, but it smells and feels a lot like mineral spirits. I'd think that would be a better choice than all the above for deep cleaning. You could put your whole rifle in there and hose it off with the stuff, blow it off with compressed air, and then clean it normally, but much easier, espeically for the machineguns. It didn't hurt the plastic, but I still took it off.

If you have an air compressor, you can get an engine degreaser wand for it that I bet would work really well with this stuff, and then use the air to blow it off.
 
Stick to BF CLP. No reason to use Brake clean. It deosn't bust up carbon or anything any better. NC brakeclean is great for electric motors. But deosn't do anything special for firearms.

And it'll melt your Glock, Colt AR, M1 Socom, carpet, window blinds, cat, kitchen counter, childrens toys, and even ice cubes.

You don't want to melt your cat do you?
 
Good old WD-40 is what I use inside the house.

It cuts old dried oil & caked powder fouling better then brake cleaner.

And the fumes won't turn your liver into Swiss Cheese.
It's also harmless to plastics and stock finish.

rc
 
I've used Brake Kleen to de-cosmoline a couple Mosin Nagants I bought. Worked perfectly. Also worked very well to remove the varnish finish off of the stock when some excess dripped onto one...D'oh!

Stuff works fantastic when replacing brake shoes.
 
I keep a can around because it is the best way to get cosmoline out of those hard-to-reach parts of (only when stripped down and separated from the stock, for the reason Murphy alludes to above). Other than that, I stick to Hoppes and Breakfree.
 
OK for steel and aluminum, but keep it away from the stock or you will regret it. It'll pull a finish off pretty fast - all except for the Remington high gloss from years ago. That stuff is nearly indestructible.
 
The only thing I use it relating to shooting is to clean my bronze bore brush. It does make them last a lot longer, but I'll never use it directly on a firearm of anykind.
 
I've used brake cleaner to dissolve cosmoline from "new" milsurps, but as others have said, Hoppes or CLP are more than sufficient for routine cleaning.
 
Brake cleaner doesn't seem to do any harm to polymer frames and it does clean real good, especially in the hard to reach nooks and crannies.
But it will discolor some plastics and wood finishes.
Best of all, is that it evaporates quickly, and is inexpensive.
I use it after normal scrubbing with gun solvents, before lubing all surfaces.
 
I've been using Walmart brake cleaner for years for everything from a duty Glock to a minty blue Python. It has never hurt anything. Common sense tells you to avoid wood finishes with it or about any other product like it. I also avoid most plastics, except for the Glocks. Brake cleaner doesn't seem to affect them. I use the brake cleaner to wash off whatever solvent I have used to scrubb the gun down with....As far as WD-40 goes, I have used it and find it does an excellent job of taking off crud. Even after using WD, I usually us brake cleaner to wash the gun down with before re-oiling.
 
i used it in a shotgun barrel and it pulled out all kinds of built up plastic fouling i didnt know was in there. I got a big blob of gel out of there. I use it on my rifle barrels if I only put a few rounds through after I use a copper cleaner. Keep it off your skin, it will dry and crack your hands really bad.
 
The only time I use that brake cleaner is when I'm prepping to shoot some Duracoat. There's really no reason to use a degreaser every time you clean a firearm. If you just need to dunk or soak, try two gallons of mineral spirits in a bucket. Add one quart of motor oil and one pint of marvel mystery oil.

Marvel is a top cylinder oil that cuts carbon. Dunk, soak, clean, etc. in the solution. When you remove the parts, the mineral spirits evaporates leaving a light coat of oil. Wipe everything down and you're done.
 
I use non-chlorinated brake cleaner all the time. It is really good for cleaning all the gunk off of parts. Don't use carburetor cleaner, it's much too harsh.

FYI, Walmart raised its price to $2.96 a can. I have about 7 cans so it should last me a VERY long time.
 
Brake cleaner

What TonyAngel said. I use Simple Green for removing the heavy stuff, then Mineral Spirits or Brake Cleaner before blasting. I'll use it once in awhile for really super dirty firearms. Normal cleaning is nothing more then CLP.
 
I believe that a misconception that some have about cleaning their gun is that they have to get it spic and span. This is not the case.
 
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