Cleaning rod damage on my new-to-me used '80 vintage Marlin 39A?

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MacTech

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I was inspecting the muzzle of my '80s vintage 39A close up, and noticed something unusual about the muzzle....

the rifling appears to be slightly "recessed" behind the crown, there is an area with a distinct line at which the rifling just *stops* before it reaches the end of the muzzle, except for one spot near the 7:00 position where it loks like two rifling grooves do extend almost all the way to the crown, but stop just shy of the crown

Even with this anomaly, the rifle shoots dime-size-to-one-hole groups at 25 yards with Remington CBees and CCI Target Shorts on my backyard plinking range, I haven't taken it to my rod and gun club to shoot full power .22's in it yet, so I don't know how it performs at 50Y

first question, is this possibly cleaning rod damage from the original owner?

Second question, assuming it shoots acceptably well at the big range, is this anything to be concerned with, will it get any worse? I clean with both boresnakes and cleaning rods from the breech end, and only clean the bore when accuracy drops off

third question, how easy/difficult is this for a competent gunsmith to fix?

I do like this rifle a *lot*, I like it better than my '09 vintage 39A with the crossbolt safety, rebound hammer, and crappy MarShield finish on the furniture, the '80 model has nicer wood, a noticeably smoother action, and a Williams FP rear peep sight

I'm assuming a competent gunsmith can just remove the damaged section of rifling (it's about 1/16" in from the muzzle crown) and do a light recrown/smoothing job on the muzzle, and it should be a quick and simple repair, and relatively inexpensive?

I'm thinking all that would be needed is to ream/cut/file/whatever they do the 1/16" damaged area away by basically abrading away the damaged portion of the crown and rifling, basically, the crown ends up slightly deeper, am I right?
 
i love your attention to detail, i am a perfection freak as well. Test her out and if it aint broke dont fix it, you have someone wrench on it and it might shoot worse when you get it back. Mass market maching wasn't that great in the 80's, might be the way it left the factory.
 
Heh, forgot the simplest option "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"
the Technician's version of that axiom is either;
"If it ain't broke, it don't have enough features yet"
"If it ain't broke, keep fiddling with it...."

I never even considered that this could have left the factory like this, but it's a possibility....

If it performs okay at the range, I'll just live with it until I see noticeable performance drop off, then have it fixed (the gunsmith at KTP is a good guy and knows his stuff)
 
My local smith charged $25 for a counterbore, so worst case it probably wouldn't be expensive to alter. Note I didn't say fix, because usually tweaking something will make it a whole nother set of issues to find and attack.
 
If done correctly a counter bore should leave you with a good sharp internal crown and fresh rifling. You could also get it slightly shortened and recrowned, if the ware is RIGHT at the muzzle that is.
 
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