Cleaning suppressors with H202

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.cheese.

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I just used some hydrogen peroxide on a still somewhat deep and open wound (in retrospect, stitches probably would have made this easier - see Evil Knife for details). Anyways, I got curious about H2O2 as I really didn't know much about it and wikipedia'd it. Coincidentally, I found this:

From: Hydrogen Peroxide

Dilute hydrogen peroxide can be used in a 50/50 mixture with white vinegar in the removal of accumulated lead and gun powder from a stainless steel firearm suppressor. The acetic acid is the main reagent, but the bubbling action of the hydrogen peroxide is used to agitate the mixture and accelerate the reaction. The chemical mixture should be replaced every 24 hours as it will become ineffective after that period. The responsible care of the used chemistry is required as the end result is an aqueous solution of lead acetate, which is highly toxic and must be disposed of through a Hazardous Waste facility. This method should not be used on aluminum suppressors, as acetic acid will dissolve the aluminum and form aluminum acetate.
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I had never heard of this. Anybody use this? It seems to only apply to stainless steel suppressors. Why not just "steel" suppressors in general?
 
I'm the one that wrote that section on Wikipedia. It works outstandingly well on stainless steel components.
 
I was aware that hydrogen peroxide is rocket fuel though.
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It is many times stronger than the low percentage stuff you get at the drug store.

Hydrazine works better.
 
I imagine it would rust the hell out of regular steel. Sounds great for the SS though.
 
I'm the one that wrote that section on Wikipedia. It works outstandingly well on stainless steel components.
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I love THR. Only at THR can you have these type of small world coincidences. :) Good writing.

Perhaps you could answer one of my questions about it. Why stainless steel and not just steel in general? Does the chromium content somehow change the chemical reaction?
 
In my SS silencer, I use H202 and acetic acid (3%) in a 1:1 mix. Works like a charm. :)

As for not using it on other steels (and CERTAINLY not aluminum) it is a corrosive mixture.


be certain to dispose of that lead acetate properly, it is bad juju.
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I bottle it, relabel the bottle properly, and bring it to the local HazMat center. They're more than happy to take it.
 
Perhaps you could answer one of my questions about it. Why stainless steel and not just steel in general? Does the chromium content somehow change the chemical reaction?
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Two answers to that one:

1) There are only a couple of plain steel cans on the market, and no plain steel .22LR cans, so it's almost a moot discussion, but more importantly...

2) H2O2 is a powerful oxidizing agent. Plain steel is very susceptible to oxidizing - that's how rust is formed. I would bet you'd see rust on the can within 24 hours of immersion, if not less.
 
H2O2 is a powerful oxidizing agent. Plain steel is very susceptible to oxidizing - that's how rust is formed. I would bet you'd see rust on the can within 24 hours of immersion, if not less.
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Makes sense.
 
Yep H2O2 is a very good oxidizer. One of the components of the sanitizing system (non-chlorine) I use for my pool is a 17% H202 solution. Don't want to spill that on a cut, or unbroken skin for that matter. I use a knife to cut the seal open on the bottle. Have to rinse and wipe the knife quickly. Won't take long for rust to appear on it otherwise.
 
It is many times stronger than the low percentage stuff you get at the drug store.

Hydrazine works better.
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True. The drug store stuff is just 1 or 2 % if I recall.
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Standard USP medical hydrogen peroxide is 3%.. Years ago I got some 20% to make up a special preparation for a dentist.


I do not think it is being used as rocket fuel, most big rockets use liquid oxygen, no waste involved. When the peroxide breaks down for every molecule of oxygen released you have a molecule of water remaining, think of the weight penalty of using peroxide.
 
Why not just get a "can" that can be disassembled for cleaning :evil: :neener:

Rob
(Taking his first plunge in the Title II pool this week)
 
I do not think it is being used as rocket fuel, most big rockets use liquid oxygen, no waste involved. When the peroxide breaks down for every molecule of oxygen released you have a molecule of water remaining, think of the weight penalty of using peroxide.
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It probably isn't anymore, but it used to be.
Not for the space shuttle or Apollo program, but there was a heck of a lot of rocketry going on before that, and for purposes other than putting man in space.
 
apparently it's still used in some old satellites - I think that was in the wikipedia article.
 
I do not think it is being used as rocket fuel, most big rockets use liquid oxygen, no waste involved. When the peroxide breaks down for every molecule of oxygen released you have a molecule of water remaining, think of the weight penalty of using peroxide.
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Still sees occasional use for station keeping controls, but has mostly been replaced by hydrazine systems.

There are a number of hydrogen/oxygen upper stages used now.
LOX (liquid oxygen) and kerosene got us to the moon.

The Germans used H2O2 at very high concentrations in the WWII rocket plane.
It gets less stable as the concentration increases and becomes more dangerous and harder to handle.

Free oxygen (mono atomic) is a very powerful oxidizer, to the point of causing tissue burns from exposure.
Ozone (O3) tends to break down quickly releasing a free oxygen atom that is very reactive.
H2O2 is used in contact lens sterilization by using a catalyst to break down the hydrogen peroxide releasing free oxygen.
 
Why not just get a "can" that can be disassembled for cleaning

Rob
(Taking his first plunge in the Title II pool this week)
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No offense meant, but it's obvious you haven't taken that Title II plunge yet. :) Even suppressors that disassemble benefit greatly from the H2O2/vinegar solution. The lead/carbon deposits found inside a .22 can are hard as stone and can only be effectively removed with a bead blaster or the chemicals. It would take your hours of work to get even the first baffle clean with regular gun solvents and brass brushes/dental picks.
 
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