Cleaning the inside of cases?

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EddieCoyle

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Hi all,

I apologize if this has been covered elsewhere but I'm at work and if I try to surf the archives I'm likely to get bagged.

I plan to finally start reloading this winter and have been saving all of my brass. I was sorting through it last night and noticed that the inside of the WinClean .380 brass was clean enough to eat off of but some .38 SPL stuff I have is pretty nasty.

Anyway, here's my question:

Is it important to clean the inside of cases before reloading? If so, how clean do they have to be? What's the best way to do it?

Thanks.
 
I just clean all of my cases with crushed corn cob if its not too dirty or crushed walnut followed by corncob if its very dirty. About 1.5 hours running in my dillon CV 500 vibratory cleaner. I dont worry about the inside of the cases, IMHO it doesnt matter if they are perfectly clean as long as there aren't any big chunks inside. :p

I only clean the flash holes on rifle brass being loaded for accuracy.
 
Master Blaster,

Is there any downside to just using the walnut shells without following up with corncob? Can you over clean cases? I'm going to just be loading handgun ammo for now, .380, .38SPL, .45, and after this weekend, .500 S&W.
 
As long as there are no big hunks of debri in the cases and the outer walls are clean it doesn`t matter. The purpose of cleaning is mainly to kep dirt from scratching your die. Wipeing them on your pant leg will clean them enought for that, and any thing more is just for "pretty".
You don`t need to retumble in corn cob after walnut. The walnut is a faster cleaner and corn cob polishes better, that`s all they do.
 
My old Drill Instructor said that if it was brass, the Corps expected it to shine, so shine it does. I wouldn't want that tough old coot hunting me down after all these years.

Coos Bay, huh? That's just 60 miles south of me.......

Fred
 
Wise Drill Instructor (I was in the NAVY...Snicker)...Yup...I know where you are...You are at the top of the Sand Dunes. Or what's left of the after the Ecofreaks got done with them... :banghead:
 
I don't really see any point in cleaning the inside of straight wall pistol cases. I have never heard of anyone specifically cleaning the inside of pistol cases.

I do clean the inside of my rifle cases. I do this because the expander ball of a standard issue sizing die, goes through the neck of the bottle necked case and it needs to go through smoothly and as friction free as possible. I can show you an obvious difference in the OAL of sized cases that either had the neck lubricated or not using a dial caliper. With rifle cases, they are lubricated for sizing (most handgun cases are not: the sizing die uses carbide or something similar that eliminates the need for lube, as well as the fact that the case is straight). This lube collects debris inside the case neck. When the cases are trimmed, shavings stick inside the neck. I want to remove this debris as well as the lube itself. I simply clean them in the kitchen sink with soap and water. Brushes are readily avialable from reloading equipment dealers specifically made for cleaning bottle necked rifle case necks.
 
Ok, I'm the only idiot who bothers to clean the inside of his cases. Do I get a trophy? But I warn you, I am very new to reloading, and a natrally pedantic person.

But when reloading for .38spl, I chuck a nylon bore brush into a drill, and give every case a wizz with that after resizing. It probably does nothing more than make me feel good, but that's why I do it.
 
I'm in the walnut followed by corncob group most of the time. If the cases have bullet lube on them (for me usually Lee liquid Alox), I soak them in paint thinner for a few minutes before droping them in the tumbler.

I don't de-prime until after the cleaning process is finished. I stand my bottlenecked cases up in a loading tray, "dust" them with a small feather duster, then spray with Hornady One-Shot. I got in the habit of dusting them (to remove any loose crud still on the outside of the case) after damaging 2 FL sizing dies (they began to scratch cases). Straight walled cases go directly from the tumbler to the carbide dies without further preperation.

The only time I take special care to clean the inside of the cases is on match rifle brass, then I give the necks a few turns with a brush.

BTW Eddie, if you're worried about using this site at work, why not turn your boss into a shooter? Then you should be able to get away with spending more time on these 'educational' sites!

Doug
 
Dr. Doug,

You didn't ruin your sizing dies when they started to scratch. They can be restored to better than new by simply polishing them out. Here is the quote from Varmint Al's website. I've restored numerous dies with this method for myself and friends. It only takes a couple of minutes per die and they work better after polishing than they did when first purchased.

"POLISH THE DIES.... I polish the inside of my rifle reloading dies. Most die manufacturers leave the die bores smooth but not polished. A polished die will resize with much less axial force than one in the as-received condition. I disassemble them and put a little Flitz on a cotton bore mop held in a drill motor and polish each one for 30 seconds or more at a 300 to 600 rpm speed. Sometimes I have to wrap a paper towel around the swab to get a good fit. Then I clean all the polish out with hot water and dry with a paper towel wrapped around a clean cotton swab. The polishing process does not remove a measurable amount of material, but results in smoother operation, minimizes the scratching or scoring of the brass, and minimizes crumpling problems when I use them while forming wildcat brass.

Flitz is slightly more aggressive than JB. I took a piece of mild steel with a reasonably smooth finish and polished it with Flitz and JB. The left end was polished for about 2 minutes at 500 rpm with Flitz and the right end for about 2 minutes with JB. There is no detectable decrease in the diameter on either end measured with my high-precision Mitutoyo Micrometer. It was a very easy test. Try it for yourself."

Another thing that causes scratching of brass is polish residue left on the brass from the original tumbling process. This is especially noticable with pistol brass sized in a carbide die. My process is to polish in treated corncob and then tumble for about 30 minutes in untreated corncob to remove the residue.

If you're experiencing really fine scratching on straight walled pistol cases, it's not the die, it's the left over residue. Clean the die real good and then tumble the brass for a few minutes in untreated corn cob and I'll bet the scratching will go away.

Bushmaster,

Why isn't there a bounty on the ecofreaks? They claim I'm "ruining the sand dunes" when I ride my ATV on them, but when the wind blows in the afternoon, there isn't a trace of my ever having been there! They've closed over half of the dunes for the Western Snowy Plover, which they admit isn't really endangered, just that this is an area where they "sometimes nest". The prime plover nesting areas are in BC and Alaska. It's sickening what they get away with. Hell, I'm 61 years old and if the world was going to end because of what I've done, I think it would have ended by now. They freak out when someone spills a drop of oil or diesel in the water, but what happened after World War I and II, with the thousands of ships sunk and millions of gallons of oil in the water? There were no long term bad effects from any of that, since the earth takes care of itself, without man's short term efforts, which usually just screw things up anyway. See, you pushed my button and now I have to go take a nap...........

Fred
 
Ok, I'm the only idiot who bothers to clean the inside of his cases. Do I get a trophy? But I warn you, I am very new to reloading, and a natrally pedantic person...........Hey Arch........Nothing wrong with what you're doing.

It's nice to look inside a case and see clean and bright like the outside. If that's what you want and it makes you feel better........Go for it.

For the type of shooting I do, I'm the weak link when it comes to accuracy, not my ammo. Therefore I spend more time working on me than the loads. HEE HEE
 
I soak mine in a concotion of 1 part toilet bowl cleaner, 4 parts water. Soak for a couple hours and tumble for a couple hours in walnut. Not only do I like the shiny brass (am I a pack rat or neanderthal man that likes shiny things?) I get a case of the warm and fuzzies when I have charged the cases, hold them under a strong light, and see that I haven't double charged or under charged a case. The nice clean brass lets me do a check on the amount of powder in the case a little easier than sooty cases.

1. deprime with the universal de-primer
2. soak in the brew
3. tumble
4. size the cases
5. measure the cases, discard any that are over or under (except .38 spl,
those will get trimmed eventually, 9mm is plentiful enough to just pitch.
6. prime the cases and put them in the appropriate coffee can

I started measuring brass every time when I found that there are others that load 9x18 using trimmed 9mm brass. I do it too, but only use them where I can be positive I can recover the brass or they will be lost and not picked up by a handloader. I also have lock rings on my pistol dies so I can setup everything really quick. Grossly over or under brass will throw me off....
 
LAH,

Thanks for your support mate :)

I am actually thinking of not bothering with brushing the insides of my cases, and just picking up a vibratory tumbler, as they seem to get all the muck out. It just takes too long (took me nearly 30 min just then to do 80 cases).

I'm also discovering more usefull time savers, like I don't need to try and trim my cases every time, with my mouse-fart loadings...so next time I decide to do a bigger batch, I wont mix up my brass, with the never-loaded-by-me once fired factory +P brass...lol.

Cheers.
 
Reloader Fred,
Thanks for the advice on the dies. One set was from Lee, and when I called them, they said in order to polish out the damage enough material would need to be removed to change the dimensions. I'm going to try to polish them anyway- I've got nothing to lose!

Eddie- Just for fun (I live a pretty sheltered life), I cleaned the inside of a few straight-walled cases with a brush- not enough to get them shiny, but to knock the crud out. I couldn't see any difference in effort or effect when I sized or loaded them. I don't think I'll bother to do any more.
 
Dr.Doug,

I've found that most dies scratch from picking up small amounts of brass, which are deposited on the walls of the die. The brass continues to build up, and can get quite excessive, which naturally makes you think the die is bad. It only takes a few minutes to clean out the brass deposits with the Flitz, and makes me feel good when I've "saved" a die. Just be sure to use the paste Flitz, rather than the liquid, which is too thin to work properly. I've tried J-B Bore Cleaner, and it works, too, but is a little slower to polish.

Flitz also works really well for putting a final shine on feed ramps of pistols for better feeding. Whenever I polish a feedramp, I follow up the Cratex with a felt tip in the Dremel coated with Flitz.

Fred
 
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