Cleaning tricks for 38 spl gunk in 357??

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bison

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I recently bought a used GP100 in SS and have been shooting both 38 spl and 357. The cylinder has a fair amount of carbon gunk from shooting the 38's and I've tried just about everything to clean it with no luck. I've scrubbed, used Gun Scrubber, etc but no noticeable difference. It's not enough to cause the 357's to stick but is annoying me - any tips?

Thx
 
Try building an electrolysis cleaner tank. Remove the cylinder and let it soak in the tank with the help of a couple volts.
 
Kleen Bore Lead Away. Great on stainless steel. Don't use it on any blued weapons. It will destroy the bluing. I used it on a friends GP100 SS. He purchased it used and the previous owner shot .38 special exclusively. My friend shot .357 magnum and the cases stuck so badly we had to knock them out. I worked on it for a while and it's fine now.
 
Wet it down with Hoppes #9 or some other bore cleaner, and let it soak a day or two. Then brush the heck out of it. Repeat if needed.
 
Chore Girl or Chore Boy copper scrubber. Tear some off and wrap it around a copper brush. I use a drill on low speed. Copper wont hurt the steel. Also removes leading from the barrel, dont use the drill. Takes plastic out of a shotgun barrel really quick.
 
The cylinder has a fair amount of carbon gunk from shooting the 38's and I've tried just about everything to clean it with no luck. I've scrubbed, used Gun Scrubber, etc but no noticeable difference. It's not enough to cause the 357's to stick but is annoying me - any tips?


You sure you're not mistaking that "carbon gunk" with the chamber throats? You want the gunk gone, but not the throats. Be careful not to damage them.

If the chambers are clean enough, I wouldn't sweat it.
 
Flare a magnum case in the expander die until it will just push into the chambers. The case mouth will scrape out the Internet Horror Ring Of Fouling.
 
Flare a magnum case in the expander die until it will just push into the chambers. The case mouth will scrape out the Internet Horror Ring Of Fouling.

This, it works like a charm on my revolvers and Marlin lever gun
 
Fastest way to remove it is with a short section of cleaning rod, a bore brush, solvent, and a cordless drill.

I can clean all six chamber rings out in less time then it takes to type it.

For really stubborn cases, use the old gunsmith trick of wrapping some 0000 (Extra Fine) steel wool on the bore brush first. Apply solvent and Gofer it.

It will remove anything that isn't supposed to be there in one pass.

(No, it won't hurt the chambers in the slightest)

rc
 
I was reluctant to chock up a brush into a drill but RC has recommended it on several occasions. He knows his stuff so I decided to go for it.

The job took, literally, seconds.
 
For future reference... (after taking RC's advice here..) carry a bore snake with you and run it through the chambers every few cylinders full... As many say in health care, prevention is the key.
 
Lots of good suggestion above but I like M-Pro7. After applying let it sit and also apply it to the cylinder face to remove the black rings.
 
I use hoppe's #9 all over, let is set for a minute in the barrel and cylanders while cleaning the outside of the gun. Run a brass brush through the barrel and use it to scrub out the cylanders. Run a clean patch through all the holes and you're done.
 
Try cleaning hardened .38 Spl carbon rings out of .357 chambers after it has been there for a while and ironed in by .357 ammo pressure & you won't be done I betcha.

rc
 
If you can remove the cylinder (like on S&W) get a decent size jar with lid (not too large). Now put the cylinder in the jar and fill the jar with solvent (I use Hoppes #9) until the solvent covers the cylinder and a little more. Let the cylinder soak while you clean the rest of the gun. After the rest of the gun is clean now contrate on the cylinder. It should be much easier now. You may also want to invest in a couple of Tornado brushes. Those are the stainless steel spiral wrapped brushes. They work great in cylinders. They will also help smooth the cylinder walls as they clean all the way through the cylinder. When the cylinder is clean you can replace it in the frame. I do this with all S&W revolvers that are not nickle plated. The Hoppes can damage the nickle plating but does not effect blue or stainless steel guns.
 
I was reluctant to chock up a brush into a drill but RC has recommended it on several occasions. He knows his stuff so I decided to go for it.

The job took, literally, seconds.

I actually did the same thing with my smoothbore 12 ga Mossberg 590 a couple of weeks ago. Saved soooooo much time and hastle. I don't thing that barrel as ever been that clean!
 
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