I recently changed athe trigger on my Mil-spec SA and after an issue with the grip safety, everything works great. Today at work, everyone was gone and it was very quiet, I noticed a noise that I do not recall hearing before. It may be normal or have always been there, but just noticed it. With the gun cocked ( thumb safety on or off ) when you slowly pull the trigger, there is a very slight click. It occurs again if you release the trigger and pull it again. The click happens just after the trigger is pulled enough distance to clear the grip safety but slightly before the sear is tripped. I have done all the checks on both safetys and they work properly with no creap of the sear. Any ideas?? Thanks
Click ?
- Thread starter sworks
- Start date
- Status
stans
Member
Welcome aboard!
Sounds like the bow on the new trigger might be a tad bigger than the original and is now just tall enough to catch the bottom edge of the grip safety. It's not enough for the grip safety to prevent full movement of the trigger, just enough to drag on the bow.
Sounds like the bow on the new trigger might be a tad bigger than the original and is now just tall enough to catch the bottom edge of the grip safety. It's not enough for the grip safety to prevent full movement of the trigger, just enough to drag on the bow.
Thats what I thoght at first, but I took everything apart and its not. That was the problem I had when i installed the trigger, and had to take a few thousandsths off of the grip safety. It does crear now. Could the sear spring have a little bur or something that causes a slight catch as it is compressed? Just throwing out ideas... Thanks
gamachinist
Member
I had one do that caused by the disconnector bottoming out in the groove in the slide.
Brownells makes a scraper that fixed it right up!
Ymmv,
Robert.
Brownells makes a scraper that fixed it right up!
Ymmv,
Robert.
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Click
Either what gamachinist said, or there's a rough spot or tool mark on the
disconnect where the sear spring bears against it. Also could be a toolmark
on the face of the disconnect where it bears against the trigger or a sharp
edge or burr on the trigger stirrup that's snagging the edge of the disconnect
as the trigger moves. The cure is in polishing things up a little...lightly.
To check for the top of the disconnect hitting the notch in the slide, remove the slide and see if it goes away. (Don't let the hammer fall with the slide removed. Ease it down) If the click goes away, scrape the slot a little.
If it doesn't time to tend to the prep work on the discoinnect, the tips of the sear spring, and the trigger stirrup.
If you have a Dremel or other similar moto-tool...take it out in the street and hit it with a hammer 5 or 6 times so you won't be tempted to use it.
Flat, hard surfaces with fine grit (600-800) wet or dry paper with a little
light oil for the final polish. Lightly break sharp corners or edges with a medium India stone. Polish flat surfaces in a figure-eight pattern with light
pressure on the part. When you polish the 48 degree angle on the rear of the disconnect, be very careful not to change the angle, and remove only
enough material to smooth things up. The tips of the sear spring fingers should be polished on an angle, and don't put a lot of pressure on the fingers,
or you may bend them.
Luck!
Either what gamachinist said, or there's a rough spot or tool mark on the
disconnect where the sear spring bears against it. Also could be a toolmark
on the face of the disconnect where it bears against the trigger or a sharp
edge or burr on the trigger stirrup that's snagging the edge of the disconnect
as the trigger moves. The cure is in polishing things up a little...lightly.
To check for the top of the disconnect hitting the notch in the slide, remove the slide and see if it goes away. (Don't let the hammer fall with the slide removed. Ease it down) If the click goes away, scrape the slot a little.
If it doesn't time to tend to the prep work on the discoinnect, the tips of the sear spring, and the trigger stirrup.
If you have a Dremel or other similar moto-tool...take it out in the street and hit it with a hammer 5 or 6 times so you won't be tempted to use it.
Flat, hard surfaces with fine grit (600-800) wet or dry paper with a little
light oil for the final polish. Lightly break sharp corners or edges with a medium India stone. Polish flat surfaces in a figure-eight pattern with light
pressure on the part. When you polish the 48 degree angle on the rear of the disconnect, be very careful not to change the angle, and remove only
enough material to smooth things up. The tips of the sear spring fingers should be polished on an angle, and don't put a lot of pressure on the fingers,
or you may bend them.
Luck!
- Status
Similar threads
