Old school shooter here. I have avoided tactical scopes because on a quick shot out of the truck I dont want the knobs accidently spun. So capped turrets and 250 yd sight in for me. Now I am picking up a tactical 308 and entertaining one of these tactical scopes. Can you recommend one in the 500 dollar range, and share how it is most effectively set and used? This is for hunting, and range use, bragging rights on 500-800 yd gongs.
Clickable scopes.
- Thread starter dvdcrr
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I researched the idea and asked for advice a few months ago. My research led me to this as the one I'd have bought.
http://swfa.com/Leupold-3-9x40-Mark-AR-MOD-1-Riflescope-P60892.aspx
At least for now I've put the idea on hold. I'm primarily a hunter and have been using this scope for several years
http://swfa.com/Leupold-3-9x40-VX-2-Riflescope-P51800.aspx
With a little practice the dots are hunting accurate. The dials will allow you more precision at distance, but the dots are much faster and you don't have to remember to reset the dials.
http://swfa.com/Leupold-3-9x40-Mark-AR-MOD-1-Riflescope-P60892.aspx
At least for now I've put the idea on hold. I'm primarily a hunter and have been using this scope for several years
http://swfa.com/Leupold-3-9x40-VX-2-Riflescope-P51800.aspx
With a little practice the dots are hunting accurate. The dials will allow you more precision at distance, but the dots are much faster and you don't have to remember to reset the dials.
I use a Nikon M308 and I like it. The turrets are marked with yardage rather than mil or moa. That's both good and bad depending on your preference. The yardage marks on the turret do not match up with my actual ballistics though, so I just use them as click value reference marks, for example 500 yards on the turret equal 50 clicks. So, in my case moa markings would actually be more useful.
I've also used a Vortex Viper and if I did it over again I'd be much more likely to choose the Vortex. Look at the Viper HS or HS-T line, they are real hard to beat.
In fact, check this out.
http://swfa.com/Vortex-6-24x50-Viper-HS-30mm-Rifle-Scope-P78643.aspx
I've also used a Vortex Viper and if I did it over again I'd be much more likely to choose the Vortex. Look at the Viper HS or HS-T line, they are real hard to beat.
In fact, check this out.
http://swfa.com/Vortex-6-24x50-Viper-HS-30mm-Rifle-Scope-P78643.aspx
tacxted
Member
I don't have this scope yet. I am saving for a SWFA SS 6x42 or the 10x42. Mil/mil for me. And for $300 the seem to be good deals.
I've seen good reviews on YouTube a and read good reviews on the net.
http://swfa.com/SWFA-SS-6x42-Tactical-Riflescope-P53711.aspx
I've seen good reviews on YouTube a and read good reviews on the net.
http://swfa.com/SWFA-SS-6x42-Tactical-Riflescope-P53711.aspx
maxxhavoc
Member
I will second that. I have the 10x42 and I am very happy with the quality and mechanical accuracy. The ease of use on the mil/mil system makes me wonder why I messed with MOA scopes so long.
dusty14u
Member
I bought this scope for my M&P10 which I use for hunting and range use. I really like this scope but I haven't been able to wring it out at long range. I can't wait to see what it will do since the gun shoots sub moa at 100yds with good handloads and most good hunting ammo.
i think you mean "target" instead of tactical. some 'tactical' scopes have 'target turrets' that stick up and can be adjusted by hand without using pocket change or other tools.
some 'tactical' scopes have capped turrets. I have a USO like that with capped windage. The new Nightforce 5-25x has a capped windage knob.
most higher end 'tactical' scopes have solved the accidentally spun knob problem by what are called "locking turrets". typically you push them down to lock and they won't spin. you pull them up and you can rotate them.
searching for those terms might help you find what you're looking for, or recognize features in the glossy brochures
coloradokevin
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Unless you're in combat or misusing your equipment, I wouldn't worry too much about accidentally spinning your turrets while getting out of the truck.
Two of my scopes have "tactical" (target) style turrets, and I've never had an issue with them spinning on me unintentionally (even in competitions). But, regardless, it's easy enough to look and see where you're at before you take the shot to make sure you aren't dialed to the wrong point… after all, you'll be adjusting before you take the shot in most cases anyway.
I have locking turrets on my very expensive Schmidt and Bender scope, and I almost never use the locking feature, because they've never spun on me unintentionally.
As for how they're used, here's the quick version (since I don't have much time to type right now):
1) Set it for a 100 yard zero. Scope elevation knob reads zero when dead on at 100 yards.
2) Determine my bullet's velocity using a chronograph.
3) Plug this information into a ballistic calculator (either online or the one I have on my iPhone) to develop a drop chart.
4) Range your target. Adjust your elevation knob (and potentially your windage knob) for the conditions and distance you're shooting.
5) Pull the trigger.
In my case my scope and reticle are both MIL system (rather than MOA). Either will work, but do yourself a favor and make sure your turrets and reticle are in the same system. I typically dial my elevation knob for the distance I'm shooting, and then hold the appropriate wind hold in the reticle (rather than dialing the windage knob). I do this because it's faster, and because wind changes quickly, often requiring different holds between each shot.
Two of my scopes have "tactical" (target) style turrets, and I've never had an issue with them spinning on me unintentionally (even in competitions). But, regardless, it's easy enough to look and see where you're at before you take the shot to make sure you aren't dialed to the wrong point… after all, you'll be adjusting before you take the shot in most cases anyway.
I have locking turrets on my very expensive Schmidt and Bender scope, and I almost never use the locking feature, because they've never spun on me unintentionally.
As for how they're used, here's the quick version (since I don't have much time to type right now):
1) Set it for a 100 yard zero. Scope elevation knob reads zero when dead on at 100 yards.
2) Determine my bullet's velocity using a chronograph.
3) Plug this information into a ballistic calculator (either online or the one I have on my iPhone) to develop a drop chart.
4) Range your target. Adjust your elevation knob (and potentially your windage knob) for the conditions and distance you're shooting.
5) Pull the trigger.
In my case my scope and reticle are both MIL system (rather than MOA). Either will work, but do yourself a favor and make sure your turrets and reticle are in the same system. I typically dial my elevation knob for the distance I'm shooting, and then hold the appropriate wind hold in the reticle (rather than dialing the windage knob). I do this because it's faster, and because wind changes quickly, often requiring different holds between each shot.
zerobarrier
Contributing Member
I know a lot of people say bad things about them but I have the Millet LRS 6-25x 56mm with a 35mm tube. It has high target turrets that lock with a spin of a locking ring. The clicks are nice and easy to adjust without looking at it. It tracks great. I think the glass on mine is clear and crisp.
You can get one with an illuminated reticle but I don't care for those. This is a big , big scope, I'll post a pic so you can see how big. It can be had at midway for 469 with free shipping http://www.midwayusa.com/product/287209/millett-tactical-long-range-lrs-rifle-scope-35mm-tube-6-25x-56mm-side-focus-mil-dotbar-reticle-with-rings-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding, the illuminated reticle one is $20 more. It comes with rings but they are pretty high, unless you have a cheek riser you will need lower rings.
It has around 130moa of adjustment too, so no need for a 20moa base. Mine is set for 100yrd zero and I just click it on up to 600yds, it doesn't even use a full revolution to get to 600yds. 1/4 moa per click.
If 6-25x is to much magnification for you they make a trs-1 that is 4-16x for around $329.
I think they are great scopes for the price. I shoot 600yards with mine and can see the target clearly.
20" barrel with 9" suppressor, so you see how big the scope is.
You can get one with an illuminated reticle but I don't care for those. This is a big , big scope, I'll post a pic so you can see how big. It can be had at midway for 469 with free shipping http://www.midwayusa.com/product/287209/millett-tactical-long-range-lrs-rifle-scope-35mm-tube-6-25x-56mm-side-focus-mil-dotbar-reticle-with-rings-matte?cm_vc=ProductFinding, the illuminated reticle one is $20 more. It comes with rings but they are pretty high, unless you have a cheek riser you will need lower rings.
It has around 130moa of adjustment too, so no need for a 20moa base. Mine is set for 100yrd zero and I just click it on up to 600yds, it doesn't even use a full revolution to get to 600yds. 1/4 moa per click.
If 6-25x is to much magnification for you they make a trs-1 that is 4-16x for around $329.
I think they are great scopes for the price. I shoot 600yards with mine and can see the target clearly.
20" barrel with 9" suppressor, so you see how big the scope is.
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urbaneruralite
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Some scopes, like the Weaver Super Slam, have caps that lift up to make adjustments then push down to lock in place. Best of both. The Super Slam happens to be a very good line and in your price range.
allaroundhunter
Member
In your budget I would go with the SWFA-SS 10x42 mil/mil. They track well, have good glass, and are extremely durable.
I had a Millett TRS-1 for about 2 years and gradually the turrets became mushy and stopped tracking.
Whatever you do, make sure your reticle measurements match your turret adjustments.
I had a Millett TRS-1 for about 2 years and gradually the turrets became mushy and stopped tracking.
Whatever you do, make sure your reticle measurements match your turret adjustments.
Skylerbone
Member
I own the Leupold Mark AR for use on my AR-15 and it is a nice scope. For hunting, I'd prefer a VX 3 CDS that will allow you to tune the scope's elevation to your specific load. It works and the uncapped turrets are short with less chance of snagging or changing. The other recommendation is the Pride Fowler Rapid Reticle line, one of which is built around the .308 with stadia lines for yardage and it's a FFP so the lines always hold true. I have used or own all of the above and all are great scopes in your price range.
I would not go for this scope. a fixed 10 power is hard to hunt with, ask me how i know. The millet would work for you and they do lock i have one on my rem 700 right now. i had a elite 3200 that the knobs would turn on while hunting for yotes out of a truck, they never turned far but i etched the knobs and scope so i new when it was off. The Millet is not a great scope but none of them really are in that price range. it has not broken even on a 300 win mag and tracks fine and comes back to zero, the glass on the millet is not very good but with that in mind you can still easily see a 16" plate at 1000 yds. It likes to haze up on high power but i tend to shoot at 10X anyways for a mil-dot reference and adjustments.
Yes, the turrets are completely reliable and correct. Even the parallax knob works like it's supposed to.
Since the Millet TRS came up, I had one of those when I tried to really cheap out and nothing on that scope worked like it was supposed to. The focus knob was terrible. On the other hand, the one I had came with very decent glass.
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