Coconut oil for case sizing?

Cutting off your nose to spite your face.

Proper case lubes are cheap and widely available, and carry no risk of oxidation spoilage - why futz with any alternative which carries risks?

Making biodiesel off and on for a decade, and dealing with fatty acids (plant an animal derived oils) for all of the last 20yrs, there’s not a chance in hell I would use coconut oil for case lube.
The oil doesn't oxidize on the cases when it's washed off. Nothings cheaper or more available than stuff we can buy at the grocery store.
 
I also use the lanolin/99%alcohol mixture spraying it into a gallon Ziploc bag with rifle cases and allowing it to dry before loading, the advantage of 99% is it evaporates and leaves a fine film of lanolin. Recently I noticed the bag had a film of lanolin so when I loaded up 100 44mag I put the cases into the bag and rolled them around a little, I was pleasantly surprised how easy they sized in a carbide die. I also throw the loaded rounds into corncob with Nufinish car polish to polish and add a protective coating.
Whatever lube you use, it doesn't take much, think along the line of Less is More, with excess lube you will have to clean your dies more often and you can damage your brass, also some dies have a "vent hole" that needs to be looked at to make sure lube hasn't clogged it up.
 
IDK, I bought a tub of unique several years ago for around $2.99 that is still half full, maybe in ten years or after the apocalypse I’ll need to find an alternative in the cupboards.
 
I only use a product that will dry, and not possibly taint the powder or primer in any way. I personally wouldn't use it.
 
What I don't understand is all the criticism about those that choose a non reloading or different product. It's my money, my time, my handloads and my guns. If I wanna use KY jelly, neutral shoe polish, coconut oil or bear grease for case lube, so what?

OP asked for opinions or advice. They got it. Nothing wrong with answering the original request.
 
To remove lube (or coconut oil for that matter), place cases in an akro bin or other small container, add a thimble of 91% isopropyl alcohol. Mix with hands until thoroughly coated and let dry on towel or individually rub down until dry.

Ok, lets nerd out on reloading savings:
Hornady Unique purchased in 2009 for maybe $6. I've used less than a quarter so its likely the most cost effective reloading product in existance. To date I've lubed the following:
7.62 x54r : 288
.223: 5,252
260: 2,588
32-20: 7,355

I initially lubed with Hornady One shot for a short time so lets subtract 2,000 223's to be conservative. That's still 13,483 case of various sizes. If I assume a quarter used (unlikely)
IMG_0660.jpg
...then that's $1.50 divided by (and lets be even more conservative because 223 and 32-20 are so small) 5,000 cases. That equals .0003 cents per case. Using that math and the current price on Amazon of $10, I think I can safely say one should expect to lube at least 33,000 cases for $10.
 
To remove lube (or coconut oil for that matter), place cases in an akro bin or other small container, add a thimble of 91% isopropyl alcohol. Mix with hands until thoroughly coated and let dry on towel or individually rub down until dry.

A vibratory tumbler with fresh corncob media and a splash of isoheet works well also. Run it with the cover off to help the alcohol evaporate. You can get a few tumbles out of it before it stops absorbing the oil.
 
Some folks are so cheap that they squeak when they open their coin purses.

I dabble with a few home made case lubricants so that I’m prepared for material shortages.

Generally, the commercial case lubricants work just fine and the cost of usage per case is very low.

A penny wise, pound foolish position to make your own case lubricant.
 
Sorry, I don't agree with your position.

Others here probably won't either, reloaders have always been in it to save money, make better ammo, experiment....
 
Used sparingly and it should be fine. You will want to fully remove it before loading, so tumble it off, otherwise it will cause powder contamination.

I still use PEG 75 lanoline and a bottle of Red HEET for sizing rifle, and OneShot for pistol. Havent really found anything that is better that is more convenient. Lanolin has to be tumbled off, OneShot does not.

One Shot for pistol is the way to go. Makes sizing 9mm much easier.
 
You could probably use ear wax for case lube.

I use Lee water soluble case lube. Wash the cases after sizing, let dry, zero issues.
 
Derek45: I notice that the alcohol is 91 percent, not 99. Also, the "liquid lanolin" is a puzzle. The lanolin I bought as 100 percent USP is a solid at room temperature. Worked well as a lube when I tried it.

As an aside, the lanolin makes a very good lip (yours, not a case) lube if you have dry or chapped lips. Don't know if the liquid works as well but the USP solid I bought works great. Find it on Ebay.
 
Derek45: I notice that the alcohol is 91 percent, not 99. Also, the "liquid lanolin" is a puzzle. The lanolin I bought as 100 percent USP is a solid at room temperature. Worked well as a lube when I tried it.

As an aside, the lanolin makes a very good lip (yours, not a case) lube if you have dry or chapped lips. Don't know if the liquid works as well but the USP solid I bought works great. Find it on Ebay.
You can buy liquid on amazon for about $10 for a few years worth, it doesn't congeal. Mine's probably gotten to 40 or so degrees, no issues. And yeah, the 99% is better, but a bit harder to find since covid. 91% just takes a bit longer to dry.
 
Castor oil makes a good case lube, and doesn't go rancid. Good lubricant,used to be used in engines, high film strength, a little goes a long way.
 
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