Cold Blue?

[22lr]

Does anyone have pictures of guns they redid with cold blue. Ive got 2 old shotguns that need refinished and I don't have a oven big enough for the dura-cote stuff. I'm just wondering if anyone has some good pictures of what cold blue looks like compared to real blue.

Also off the topic of cold blue would automotive paint work? I have no worries about look as much as function. BTW, the guns are old Mossberg bolt-action I bought for $25 so if I spend $100 to have it refinished it kinda ruins the purpose of the cheap "truck gun". I plan on refinishing the stocks seeing as how I do a lot of woodwork and I can bear to paint over walnut.

Many thanks
22lr

 

[22lr]

LOL I posted this to soon, I was under the impression that I needed to bake Dura-coat but I am seeing on there website that that is not the case. Well if anyone has picture of a cold blue firearms I would still like to see it and compare.

 

[rcmodel]

There is not enough initial difference in color to tell in pictures.

The difference is 3 months or 6 months later when the cold-blue fads into the sunset and the gun looks almost unblued again.

It is not at all durable, and no matter how hard you try, it just won't last as long as hot blue.

rc

 

[rbernie]

I have cold blued several rifles. Stripped the old blue off with chemical cleaners, sanded the metal with 600grit sandpaper, polished it with steel wool, applied multiple layers of cold blue with steel wool, and oiled heavily.

If you spend massive amounts of time, they CAN come out looking OK. But, as rcmodel has pointed out - they don't last for squat. The chemical reaction that causes the surface coloration simply isn't strong enough to really penetrate the metal.

I found my local gunsmith will beadblast and dunk anything I bring him for $35, as long as I'm willing to wait until he has a run o' stuff set up and ready to go. That's proven a lot more satisfying that cold blue.

 

[Clipper]

The Mosin-Nagant I reblued with 3 coats of Birchwood Casey super blue last summer still looks great...

 

[nitetrane98]

I did an old double barrel .410 in Brownells OXPHO-BLUE and it turned out pretty much black. I couldn't keep enough oil on it to keep it from trying to rust within a week. Never again.
A good coat of Dupont Imron would have been a lot more durable.

 

[schmeky]

Cold blue offers virtually no corrosion protection. I feel it was designed for small area touch-ups, not complete refinishing.

 

[LoneCoon]

If you've got a backyard and some free time, I might suggest doing your own hot bluing. You can have a set up for less then $100, less if you have a turkey fryer you're willing to sacrifice to the cause.

A caution though, as the chemicals used to blue are EXTREMELY FREAKING CAUSTIC, and will eat your face if you aren't careful. That said, good luck.

 

[627PCFan]

I redid a 1940's Savage 311 SXS 2 years ago with Cold blue and it turned out horrible despite following directions to the T.

I spent my last 2 weeks restoring the 311 and this time I used Duracoat. The gun is beautiful. I did the barrel with high gloss black. If you really like your guns, hot blue it or duracoat.-

 

[TimT]

personally, as mentioned the cold blues don't wear all that well. Duracoat is just a "paint" as liken to Krylon.......it works and has wear certainly, I've tried them both. What I have found that works well if you don't use too much humidity is Laurels Mtn. Forge browning. Browned my Win. 94 barrel and an pre-64 barrel, take it to white, degrease, apply, set in shower stall with a wet towel under it(home-made setup ) card it, reapply and repeat till you get the job complete. Too much humidity will give it a really rough "matte" finish due to heavy rusting. All in all it is a good one.

I am just for grins and getting abit of experience and we all need that as money don't grow on no tree I know of is Pilks rust bluing. Correct procedures to the "T" is crucial.........distilled water is key along with bead blasting to a 280 grit and then hand polishing with 320. Them last 2 is what I need to do next, I experimented with "filtered" water and it is apparent that it is not working out well. I now will take it back to the white and try some clean snow(back bush method in Ak.) shipping distilled water is expensive. If I have to do this to the white 7 times then..............so be it. It will get done right.

oh well, just jabbering along.

regards,

 

[SLMPDcitycop]

If you dura-coat, you don't always have to bake.

 

[22lr]

I think im going to go crazy and just experiment for a while before I do a good job and dura-coat it. I bought the gun to practice with refinish so ill see how it goes and learn from it. Thanks for the input it is greatly appreciated. Ill try a few methods and post pictures when I get done. First off I'm thinking ill try high temp engine enamel (I love playing with that stuff). Just cover areas that wouldn't be painted, HMMM something says try it, something says DON'T, o well what can it hurt. Maybe even this week ill try that method.

 

[SLMPDcitycop]

Here's my opinion... Anything can be sand blasted off, even dura coat. Experiment with everything and find something that you like. I personally sand blast the finish off and apply dura coat without baking. Has worked for me for years. Sand blasters aren't too pricey from harbor freight tools.

 

[22lr]

Just gave er a coat of high temp engine enamel and it looks really good. I used a semi-gloss black and it looks amazing. If it holds up to use ill be very pleased with how it turned out. I might get a few pictures up later but its still getting nice and dry.

 

[2RCO]

I got some cold blue at a gun show that worked really well and I redid an onld beat up argentine with it a few years ago.

I'll try to track down the name of the stuff. It's held up for about 3 years and hasn't rusted.

 

[22lr]

That looks good for a cold blue, good work. I might still try a cold blue on my other 190 but I guess ill see how the paint holds up.