Colt Diamondback Truck Gun help

[Guillermo]

Gentlemen,

In one of my weaker moments I purchased a corroded, roached Colt Diamondback 4" 38. I figured that a Diamondback truck-gun would be pretty cool.

The seller was very open and honest about the issues that it had. Like a dork I bought it. Brought it to a local fellow who has one of American Handgunner Top 100 Gunsmiths in his employ.

Had him bead blast it and blue it. Changed the horrid grips. Also was going to have him fix the mechanical issue that it has.

When cycling single action, when the hammer is pulled, the cylinder "clicks" into proper alignment. Double action, the momentum of the cylinder brings it all the way to proper indexing.

Of course I should not have bought a Colt with an issue but hey...I was soft hearted for the old abused gun.

Thirteen months later he had not fixed it. I went by today, paid for the blue job and am now looking to fix it.

Does anyone have an idea what the problem is?

And BTW, ridicule away. I totally screwed this one up. Feel free to make fun.

 

[cyclopsshooter]

Don't know Colt revolvers all that well but i have a special place in my heart for rusty old Smiths in need of bead blasting and a park job- You're not alone-

 

[dfariswheel]

If I understand the problem, if you slowly cock the hammer in SA the cylinder doesn't quite lock up and if you push the cylinder it will lock up completely?

This is THE classic Colt "out of time" condition.
The fix is to stretch the hand that rotates the cylinder.

Some warnings: First, the hand is not stretched WHERE or how you'd think, and second, it can only be stretched ONE time. If it's been stretched once before, you'll need Colt to install a new hand.

Repair options are:
Smart move, return it to Colt and let them correct it.
If you want to do it your self, buy a copy of the Jerry Kuhnhausen Colt shop manual, Volume One.
This shows all Colt gunsmithing on the older type Colt action in great detail, including how to stretch the hand, where to stretch it, and the tool to use to do it.

http://www.brownells.com/books-vide...action-revolvers-a-shop-manual-prod25720.aspx

Also be aware that hands are hard and can simply break, especially if done wrong. Break the hand and you're just SOL since they are no longer available and used parts usually don't work.

Last, as long as the cylinder does go ahead and lock up when the trigger is actually pulled, the gun is safe to use.
The danger is if it continues to wear until it won't lock when the trigger is pulled the gun is no longer safe to use.

 

[Jaymo]

I like the bead-blast-blue job. Were it mine, I'd put some of the "Python" Diamondback grips on it, or maybe the Colt Commando Special rubber grips.
Or maybe some Pachmyrs.
Perhaps the trigger or double action sear are worn?
I wish I could remember exactly what causes that problem, but I've slept since then.

OK, if you have to manually rotate the cylinder a little, to get it to lock up, when cocking it single action I'd guess the hand is worn, or maybe the cylinder ratchet.
But, I'm not any kind of an expert. Just a fan.

 

[Guillermo]

dfaris,

I apologize for the poor description.

pull the hammer back, the cylinder turns
pull the trigger the cylinder turns another 32 of an inch all the way to proper alignment.

Double action it turns all the way to proper alignment (my guess is from rotational momentum)


I have seen "out of time" Colts and the cylinder never turns all the way to proper alignment (without turning the cylinder by hand) This one does.

 

[Old Fuff]

Hands: My experience has been that stretching an older one works, where newer ones are prone to cracking, and in any case you can only stretch once.

Or if the pin in the hand in slightly bent the hand may be tilted so that it pushes against the ratchet tooth further out, and rotates the cylinder less.

I have always believed that hands seldom wear, because wear is caused by two pieces of metal rubbing together under pressure, and while the ledge on the hand and ratchet tooth may become battered, this isn't wear. Old time Colt gunsmiths often could correct a badly out-of-time revolver in under 20 minutes, and not replace any parts, hands in particular - and this wouldn't be the case if serious wear was an issue.

Another common and usually overlooked cause is a sprung (bent) crane barrel (the tube part of the crane the cylinder rotates on). If, when latched, the cylinder can "wiggle" a tiny bit outward the hand will engage the ratchet tooth more outboard and not rotate the cylinder as far.

Unfortunately, Colt went through several periods of labor unrest, some of which can be blamed on the Union, but some that was caused by bone-headed/number cruncher management. In any case the result was guns being assembled by less experienced final assemblers. Correcting a problem caused by mis-fitting in the first place will probably require new parts, but the company might (or might not) do it on their dime. This often depends on what parts they still have.

 

[Guillermo]

Thanks OF,

I guess a call to Colt is in order.

The pooch took one on this deal. (sorry Fido)

 

[Old Fuff]

The pooch took one on this deal. (sorry Fido)

I don't see it that way. I suspect some minor adjustment is all that's needed, and depending on the cause they might do it under warrantee. I might have second thoughts if the revolver was old, beat and battered, but it isn't, and it is a Diamondback. Your real mistake was not checking in with them in the first place.

After it's fixed, and with the bead-blast finish you had done, I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't bedcome a favorite user.

 

[Guillermo]

they might do it under warrantee

1970? Really?

I might have second thoughts if the revolver was old, beat and battered

It was pretty corroded. Looks ok now.

Depending on what Colt charges, this might be my most expensive DB

 

[GrandmasterB]

I think I have a D frame hand in my parts bin. Let me know if you end up needing a new one and I will go scrounge for it.

 

[Olympus]

I've got nothing to say about buying roached Colt revolvers. I've bought a few too.

Biggest thing I learned is to wait until you have the funds saved up and send the gun to Colt for all the work, new roll marks, and a nice Colt blue.

 

[Guillermo]

Grandmaster

That is very kind of you.

If I need help I will let you know. But no matter what...thank you.

 

[Guillermo]

new roll marks, and a nice Colt blue.

this one was too rough for that

I was an idiot for buying it.

But now that she is in my care I have to get her working right

 

[Old Fuff]

1970? Really?

It all depends on which side of the bed they got out of, and if they decide that faulty fitting in the first place was to blame. Or if someone can spend under a half-hour and make you a happy camper at a time they aren't overly rushed. It also helps if the moon is behind a cloud. But you have little to lose if a friendly FFL sends it in or they pay the shipping, and you might gain a lot.

Do remember to tell them you want the trigger guard altered too...

Oh, and I'm sure the Diamondback's market will have the bottoml drop out any day now....

Sure it will...

 

[Guillermo]

Do remember to tell them you want the trigger guard altered too

their lawyers won't let them mention "Fitz".

 

[forindooruseonly]

pull the hammer back, the cylinder turns
pull the trigger the cylinder turns another 32 of an inch all the way to proper alignment.

Double action it turns all the way to proper alignment (my guess is from rotational momentum)


I have seen "out of time" Colts and the cylinder never turns all the way to proper alignment (without turning the cylinder by hand) This one does.

I had a Python that did the exact same thing - clicking into place when the trigger is pulled. I ended up sending it back to Colt. They said it was "out of time" and fixed it for free - the man I talked to didn't elaborate. This was seven or eight years ago, though so I don't know if they're still so generous.

 

[Olympus]

I doubt it was too rough. I've sent some really rough ones back to Colt and they sent back a gun that literally looked like it just rolled off the production line back in the 60s. You'd be amazed at what they can do. It's expensive, but doesn't take nearly 13 months to get the gun back.

If you can buy a rough shape Dback for $300 to $400, and save about $400 to send it back to Colt, you'll easily make money on the gun if you ever wanted to sell. Not to mention you'd have a pristine gun and one that people would be drooling over. I'm speaking from experience cause I've done this several times.

 

[Guillermo]

Olympus,

I am somewhat ashamed to say that the Dback in question was in too rough shape to ever be pristine (even the bead-blast and blue didn't cover all of the corrosion divots) and that I paid more than $400.

FYI, if memory serves, Colt charges 4 bills just for their premium finish...not counting roll marks.
The reason I looking into it was becaue I am considering it for a very early Dback snubby that I bought a while back. It is #1203-ish and they started at 1001. (I am going from memory on the numbers, but I am close). It appears that some fool took steel wool to it.

Ford's does an outstanding job too. I haven't decided which way to send the old girl.