Colt Police Positive in .32 - checkout anxiety!

[honkeoki]

Okay, I've spent the last 8 hours scouring the web and THR history for info about the .32 Police Positive. I found one in ~70% condition at a local shop for $209.

Here's the problem: my reading has made me feel about 10,000% ignorant about how to check out any particular specimen of revolver. I bought 2 revolvers (Ruger Security Six and S&W 442) before I knew what the checkout was -- and got lucky. Now I'm terrified to put my money down on any used revolver because of all the things that go wrong/bad on them.

Now, I know to check for:
- cylinder play (hammer down and hammer back)
- eyeball the bore
- cylinder rotation
- barrel bulging

Other than that, I'm really a babe in the woods. Worse yet, I'm the suspicious sort who always thinks that the price on any used gun is possibly a challenge at best, a deliberate insult at worst.

My questions are:
1. How can I really increase my knowledge of revolver operations without paying for it in junk guns?

2. What would YOU look for in a .32 Police Positive (not special) beater?

3. What would you look for in its cousin, a Smith & Wesson Model 10 with a 6" barrel and decaying nickel plating?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[MMCSRET]

Go over to the Coltforum and look at the stickies, there is one there on checking out Colts. Its not like checking out any other design. I have several PP's and they are my favorite revolver. The 32 is a great cartridge and a lot of fun to load and shoot. Cast your own bullets!!!!!!

 

[Old Fuff]

The Old Fuff will point out that you CAN cast your own bullets, but you don't HAVE to.

I also have a soft spot in my heart for the Colt Police Positive, as they make a handy "pack around" revolver.

It would help if we had a serial number, which would be found on the frame behind the crane when you swing out the cylinder.

Early-middle production had black hard-rubber stocks, and the rear sight is a "U" notch with a thin-blade front one. After the middle 1920's they went to checkered walnut stocks, square rear sight notches, and a wider front blade. So far as shooters are concerned, later is better.

The price sounds reasonable, but perhaps a bit high. If you are looking for a shooter the condition of the chambers and bore are more important then how much original finish remains. Of course the mechanical condition of the lockwork shouldn't be overlooked, and Jim March's checklist in the Revolver sub-forum is pretty much Colt specific. Do check to be sure there is no crane wobble between it and the frame when the cylinder is latched.

Unless everything else was perfect, I wouldn't be interested in a S&W (or any other revolver) that was nickel plated and the plating was peeling. Restoration would likely be very expensive.

 

[honkeoki]

Old Fuff -- I have a soft spot for all small-frame revolvers. I've been looking around for months for an old Iver Johnson or H&R top-break in good mechanical shape -- that's how I happened on this Colt.

I'll go back to the shop and check the serial number and the other things mentioned. Thanks for counseling me!

Rats -- the barrel was pitted. Going back later this week to see if I can negotiate down into the $120 range...