COLT police positive

[Keeperfaith]

My buddy got this sweet little colt for $40.00. Some minor rust, pitting and lots of patina. He asked me to clean it up for him and he's considering refinishing with cerakote.

Now would that be blasphemous in your opinion on this old gun?

It's a COLT police positive 38 special with wood grips and a leather holster.

The gun functions but the cylinder is loose and it's really difficult to cock the hammer or even pull the trigger (probably needs some lubrication).

The problem with the loose cylinder looks to be with the small mechanism that protrudes from inside the frame to keep the cylinder in place (third picture).

Is that an easy fix or is this a wall hanger?

 

[Jaymo]

If it's a Police Positive, it's not a .38 Special. It's a .38 Colt New Police, aka, .38 S&W.
If it's a .38 Special, it's a Police Positive Special.
The Police Positive Special was based on the Police Positive, but with the frame and cylinder lengthened to accept .32-20 and .38 Special.
Some gun companies like to confuse people by using similar names for different models. Just look at Smith & Wesson and their different revolvers that had either "combat", "masterpiece" or both, in the name.:banghead:

Yes, I think it would be blasphemous to paint an old Colt of Smith revolver, but if it's not in good enough shape on the outside to reblue, then painting becomes a more viable option.

Another option could be to have it glass-bead blasted and then blued.

But, it's not my gun, so it's not my decision.
Just, so long as you don't paint it pink.

To be honest, that looks like a Police Positive (.38 S&W). The cylinder looks way too short for .38 Special.

 

[Cosmoline]

Is it loose before the hammer is down or after? They tend to be loose but lock up tight when the hammer falls. If you haven't popped the sideplate to deal with the lockwork, be prepared. It's a Rube Goldberg device in there. How is the timing?

 

[Old Fuff]

The pictures show it to be a Police Positive. likely chambered for the .38 Colt New Police cartridge, which in all important respects is identical to the .38 S&W round. Barrel length appears to be 5 inches. The serial number is stamped on the frame under the back end of the barrel. Swing out the cylinder to see it. Post the number and someone will tell you the year it was made.

These can be neat little guns, but this one needs help, and finding someone who is competent to do the work will probably be hard to find, and expensive when you do. However since so little is invested now, may make it worthwhile.

I strongly suggest that you don't try to take it apart. You can however put it in an old meatloff pan, and soak it in a solvent such as Marvel Mystery Oil (available at auto parts & accessories stores) that will desolve some of the internal dried-out lubricants. Blow out the excessive oil with an air hose and wipe off the exterior with cheap paper towels. They are then a fire hazzard so dispose of them carefully. Be sure to remove the wood stocks before doing any oil dipping.

A great finish does not an excellent shooter make, but the mechanical condition needs to be dead right. When that's the case you may find you have a tack-driver.

 

[funnelcake]

To clean action:

Take the grips off and run a full can of Brake Kleen (including using the little extension tube to get inside the action - reply back if you need help on where to spray). Blow it out w/ compressed air if possible followed by a light inside/ out hosing down of RemOil or similar.

To help finish (to the extent I would go):

Get some Kroil and bronze wool or pre-'81 copper penny and scrub (gently) away. Do this prior to the above to save another cleaning.

To clean grips:

Dish soap, warm water & a rough dish rag or sponge. Let dry and coat with Bpiled Linseed Oil. Let that soak in awhile & remove excess.

As noted above, the cylinder will really only be "immobile" at a specific point in the firing sequence. Also noted above - how is the timing?

Versus paint, I'd check on local platers - a bead blast & electroless nickel plate would likely cost the same, wear better, and IMO look better.

Funnel

 

[Dframe]

Tha action is likely gummed up with decades of old oil and gunk. Best NOT open it up if you're unfamiliar with the Colt action. See funnelcakes recommendations above. I wouldn't bother with refinishing at all. I'd just clean it very thoroughly and let the patina shine. That Police Positive needs to get out to the range and throw some lead. Looks to be a delightful shooter.

 

[dfariswheel]

The cylinder retention stud has nothing to do with the cylinder being loose while it's in the frame.
The retention is to retain the cylinder assembly when the cylinder is swung out.

If the cylinder is having problems while locked in the frame, something else is wrong.

 

[Jim K]

I think he is talking about the bolt (cylinder stop); the retention stud would be on the other side. I think the advice to clean the gun without taking off the sideplate is good.

I also notice that the ejector rod head is missing. Try www.gunpartscorp.com for one; they run around $10.