Colt SAA gaining wear

[Hatchett]

I recently bought one of the new production SAAs, blued. I have been very pleased, and it has the best bluing on I think I've ever seen, which really makes me want to preserve it. I've only shot it a few times, but enough that its starting to gain a turn-line. I understand that this is natural. However, it's also starting to gain a whole lot of scratches on the cylinder besides the turn line, and I think that the more I turn the cylinder, the worse it gets.

I've concluded that this cylinder is either too low, and is rubbing slightly against the bottom of the frame, but i can't actually visually confirm this. Could it happen if I cock it to fast? These scratches are getting ugly. Any ideas?

 

[Hatchett]

Also I've noticed a small, paper-thin amount of open space between the blued grip frame and the color-case hardened reciever just below the cylinder, as if the screw just ahead of the trigger guard isn't tightened completely down. Could this be a problem?

 

[Malamute]

Try tightening the screws.

You should be able to see through the cylinder window of the frame and see if the cylinder is rubbing. Some dirt or grit between them may cause it also. when you remove the cylinder you may be scratching it also, when moving the cylinder to align the base pin.

You can gently polish the locking bolt where it rubs the cylinder, (try a bit of 400 grit "wet or dry" sandpaper wrapped over a popsickle stick or something similar) so it is smoother and won't scratch as bad, but it will likely always make some mark. I think of it as character marks. All my guns have holster wear also.

 

[Hatchett]

The lock is not the problem. I seem to be pikcing up a series of thin, vertical scratches toward the front of the cylinder. Looking through the window, I don't seem to see any contact, even when I cock it.

 

[Malamute]

I had similar scratches apear on the cylinder of my 12" SAA buntline .45. Only problem is, it was at a gunsmiths when it happened, so I don't know how it happened. The guy was in his 70's and should have stopped working on guns at that point.

Only educated guess on mine was he wiggled the cylinder and cocked it when putting the base pin back in, or some grit was in the frame/cylinder joint at some point and caused the scratches.

Laying the gun on a table or in a drawer can also make scratches, tho they are usually on the part that is on the side of the cylinder that touches the table/drawer. Sounds like yours are like mine, around the circumference of the cylinder, somehow caused when the cylinder rotated.

May be worth checking the inside of the frame, the top and bottom part where the cylinder is in it. If rough at all, I'd carefully polish it to remove the high spots. Won't show with the cylinder in.

Wish I could offer more solid ideas.

 

[Majic]

It may sound like a silly question, but do you put the revolver in a holster?

 

[Hatchett]

It has spent some time inside of an El Paso pigskin-lined holster, but the lines are too straight to be that.

 

[Malamute]

Are the lines around the circumference of the cylinder?

 

[Hatchett]

Yes, kind of like it got a turn line in way too many places. I've taken the cylinder out and polished out the inside a bit. There doesn't seem to be any way that it could be making contact.

Maybe I just did something wrong in the past and didn't notice at the time. I'm just afraid that if there's something I'm missing, it'll get worse.

 

[Malamute]

Have you ever cocked the gun when it was in the holster?

 

[Master Blaster]

The blueing is fragile very fragile, as is the case color hardening.
The lines are from wiping the gun down after use, holstering and unholstering, and general handling when you shoot and clean the gun.

Don't leave the gun in direct sunlight as the case color hardening will fade.

 

[Malamute]

This doesn't sound like normal wear.


I don't think I would call good blueing "very fragile". Cold blue (touch up blue) maybe, not hot blue or cold rust blueing.

 

[Bill B.]

I have the same lines on my Colt cylinder you describe and can tell you how I got them and can guess you got yours the same way. First off I used my Colt for Cowboy Action shooting so it got a pretty regular workout and was cleaned afterwards everytime. When removing the cylinder and reinstalling it is easy to let the cylinder rub on the bolt as you are trying to get the cylinder pin back in. My gun was fit very tight and I managed to mark the cylinder the first 2 times I took it apart. I wasn't very happy about it but since this is a gun I use as a shooter I no longer think anything about these fine scratches. If you look at many photos of old Colt SA's you will see some with the exact same marks you describe so it has been happening since about 1873! I look for a few more fellas to wind up marking some more in the years to come. Enjoy that Colt and don't worry about those scratches!

 

[Father Knows Best]

When removing the cylinder and reinstalling it is easy to let the cylinder rub on the bolt as you are trying to get the cylinder pin back in.

Not sure I understand that comment. Don't you put it at half-cock before removing or replacing the cylinder? If you do, the bolt is retracted into the frame and can't run on anything.

 

[Bill B.]

Not sure I understand that comment. Don't you put it at half-cock before removing or replacing the cylinder? If you do, the bolt is retracted into the frame and can't run on anything

I will clarify that my bolt my be fitted a bit high but I have managed to put some light marks on my cylinder reinstalling the cylinder on half cock. After re-reading Hatchett's comments if his scratches are getting deep it may be that bolt timing is off. It doesn't take much rub on on the current blue to make the scratch.

 

[Father Knows Best]

Bill, it can't be a timing problem. He has clearly stated that these scratches are toward the front of the cylinder, and are in addition to the turn line that is left by the bolt.

Frankly, I'm stumped. If there isn't something in the frame that is rubbing against the cylinder (and he says there isn't), then it has to be external to the gun, such as something in the holster.

Wait! One more idea. Do you wear rings? It is typical to load and unload a SAA by holding the gun in your left hand while you work the ejector rod with your right. I wear a wedding band on my left hand. I think it would be possible to scratch the cylinder if a ring on your hand rubs against it while loading and unloading.

 

[Malamute]

One thought came to me, you can have someone blue the cylinder(Colt?), it doesn't even have to be stripped and polished, (the downfall of most reblueing jobs). just degreased and run through the blueing tanks. Don't let anyone tell you "it HAS to have the old blue stripped or polished off". It simply isn't true, despite what many, even gunsmiths, will tell you. If it bothers you, I'd have the cylinder blued. Sending it to Colt wouldn't cost much to ship since it's only a part.

 

[Jim K]

First, remove the cylinder and feel the top and bottom edges of the cylinder window. I think you will find the edges to be sharp, even burred. The flats may also have sharp edges. With a good stone, polish down any burrs or sharp edges. (This can be done without any visible marks if done carefully.)

The scratches come from those sharp places in the window when the cylinder is removed or installed. Not good QC by the factory, but that is the way things are today.

The timing is off also. An SAA type should be timed so the cylinder bolt drops into the leade, not onto the cylinder itself. The bolt spring should also be lightened so the bolt only marks and does not dent the cylinder when dropping.

Jim