Commercial FN Mauser question

[Alaskan Ironworker]

Ok guys, I picked up a beautiful 1953 FN Mauser 300 H&H for $400 with a leupold 2x7. It has above average wood, 100% deep blueing, and was stamped by the legendary Pittsburgh gunshop “Flaigs”. Any how, I believe the firing pin spring may be excessively heavy as it is difficult to open. I put a dab of “flitz” on the cocking ramp lug and worked the action a few thousand times, after which i washed out the bolt and put a dab moly grease on the ramp or lug,(not sure what the proper term is). After all this, the action is much, much easier to open than when i first started, but not quite as smooth as i’d like. I have a hunch the currently installed spring is and extra heavy or wolff extra power. Ive since fired 100 rounds through it and it shoots great, but I would like to try a lighter spring on the firing pin. Will this take a different length spring than a standard mauser 98 since it is a magnum length action? What is a standard length? What is a standard weight? Which are compatible?Somebody learn me on mauser springs!

 

[PRD1]

The FN Mauser sporting rifles are not built on true magnum actions, but, like the Model 70 Winchesters, standard actions which have been altered to accommodate the longer magnum rounds, by modifying the magazine and feed ramp. A standard Mauser '98 spring will work fine.

PRD1 - mhb - MIke

 

[boom boom]

According to Wolff (gunsprings.com), the factory rated spring is 19 LBS. Wolff springs range from 22 lbs. to 30 lbs. You might try Numrich or Sarco for the military issue type weight. There is also a firing pin/spring combo sold by David Tubbs http://www.davidtubb.com/tubb-speedlock-firing-pin/speedlock-mauser that reduces locktime significantly along with the spring.

Some folks cut a bit of a spring to lessen the weight as well which you can find reference to in other places to rules of thumb in such matters. Cut too much and the spring is toast as it will not propel the firing pin at a high enough speed to trigger the primer cup. Keep the original spring and cut on a replacement and the usual process is cut minimally, try, repeat, etc.

 

[Alaskan Ironworker]

Good info, thanks guys

 

[gwpercle]

Before you go to replacing the spring have you disassembled the bolt and cleaned all the old grease and crud that's been in there since it was manufactured.
A 95 Mauser I had was packed with age hardened old grease, once it was all cleaned out, lightly lubricated and reassembled it worked like a charm, smooth and easy to open and close.
Gary

 

[Kp321]

Your use of Fitz to polish the cocking cam was smart but not aggressive enough. If you can find some, try a small dab of 2A to 5A lapping compound. Just don't get too aggressive, even this fine stuff will eventually cut through the case hardening. A local machine shop might have an open can of the lapping compound you could get a dab out of. I have heard that JB Bore Paste will work on the cocking ramps but I have not tried it personally.

 

[Alaskan Ironworker]

I have thoroughly cleaned all parts of this rifle, and it seemed to help some. I ordered a standard weight spring for 10$ on midway, if that doesnt help ill try the lapping compound. Thanks again guys!

 

[sage5907]

If you don't like the spring you are getting from Midway by a Timney spring. Their Mauser spring is called a Mauser Speedlock Spring Item #701. I have one installed on the same action that you have and it works great. It doesn't cock quite as easy as a Winchester 70 but it is easy enough to operate without any undue resistance. One of the advantages of a Mauser commercial action is that the lock time is really fast.

 

[Alaskan Ironworker]

Ok, thanks sage