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Compressed Air

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Tiomoid

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Apr 25, 2009
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For those of you who use an air compressor to assist in the cleaning of your guns, what is the smallest hp/psi you would recommend? I have been making do without one for some years now, but I figure the time I'd save is worth the purchase.
 
You could get by with the small portable pot compressors for that purpose easily. They really come in handy to cleanup the action in auto pistols and trigger groups in auto shotguns. About the only way to clean out the unburnt powder and gunk without stripping and washing in a parts washer.
Don't do it in house though. I take the parts outside under the carport and blow them downwind. Saves a lot of time compared to the rags and pick method.
 
I just use the "canned air" available at computer and office supply stores. Not very high pressure, but cheap and adequate for my purposes.

GB7
 
I got a little compressor from Harbor Freight just for the gun cleaning task, has a small tank on it and will pump up to about 100 psi, cost me I think 65 bucks or so. Works great for the task. I keep a plastic 5 gallon bucket in my basement shop, hold the parts or action down in the bucket and hose away, all the spray goes in the bucket, saves me from running outside.
 
I have a 2.5HP with a ten gallon tank, 4.2CFM@90PSI

It's completely inadequate for running any major tools off of, and really isn't even all that great for blowing crap out of stuff. :(
 
A cheap compressor from China Freight should work well enough.

I have a 2.5HP with a ten gallon tank, 4.2CFM@90PSI

It's completely inadequate for running any major tools off of, and really isn't even all that great for blowing crap out of stuff.
We have similar inadequate compressors, although, for blowing crap out of my guns, I normally have it turned down to 45 PSI or so. Works well enough without the compressor constantly running.

Works great for pressure bleeding brakes and pumping up my tires though. Well, not so much for my truck's 31x10.50s...
 
I've had one of those 2-gallon compressors in my kitchen for years. (I'm a bachelor, nyah-nyah.) ~40 bucks at Checker Auto Parts.

Handiest cleaning implement I've ever used: drying eyeglasses; cleaning/drying electric razor; dusting off the baseboard hot water heat fins; dusting knick-knacks; drying silverware; etc.; blasting crap out of the corners where brooms and vacuum cleaners can't get; etc.; etc.

The more you use it, the more you will find uses for it.

Its shutoff point is ~105 PSI and I set the regulator for ~65 psi --adequate for most uses and will get crud out of guns. The coiled hose on it will reach out about fifteen feet before it yanks out of the compressor and makes a hellacious hiss. The length of the small-diameter plastic hose limits the "conductance" through the hose (pressure at the nozzle drops as soon as you start blowing with it), so I raised the regulator to the aforementioned 65psi from about 50 PSI.


The other day I used it to blow out a solidified plug of RTV from the nozzle of one of those tubes of RTV cement. Bounced around the room quite prettily, but hid itself somewhere and I'm going to let it stay wherever it is. (I'm a bachelor, nyah-nyah.)

It's not going to run any air tools, that's for sure, but for just regular household use (and cleaning guns) it's great.

Just remember to use a mask when blasting stuff off (especially gun cleaning agents) because it will generate a fine mist which will hang around for longer than you can hold your breath.

And it might drive solvents, etc. into your skin if you happen to hit any areas of open skin with the air blast (I believe they have a medicinal injection device which does exactly that.)

It rests under my kitchen table partially supported by a small refrigerator shelf-grill on top of a couple of 2" sheets of foam rubber, but it tended to walk off the sheets in operation. So I drove a screw-eye into the bottom of the kitchen table (I'm a bachelor, nyah-nyah) and partially suspended it by a doubled-over bungee cord to the screw in the table.

It transmits very little vibration through the structure of the building that way, although the acoustic noise is still there (I live in an apartment. And I'm a bachelor, nyah-nyah.)

Nobody's around to say, "You're not going to put that ugly thing in my kitchen!"

'Cause I'm a bachelor, nyah-nyah.

Actually, if you can get away with it, spousie might get to like this "new" kitchen machine. But you'd have to paint the whole thing white, like the blender and the Cuisinart and the breadmaker and the potato dicer and the mixing machine and the...

But I don't have to paint mine white.

'Cause I'm a bachelor, nyah-nyah.:neener:

Terry, 230RN
 
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I have used a compressor for cleaning guns for many years. The more PSI the better but remember that it will not replace brushing and scrubbing. The air compressor is the last step used to blow away the residue after cleaning.
 
I use a smaller (50 cf @ 3k psi) SCUBA tank with an old regulator, a low pressure inflator hose, and a spray nozzle or tire inflator.

It works fine for blowing out junk in trigger groups, ect...

On my truck tires (265 75 R16) 100psi in the tank = 10 psi in the tires. It will blow up bike tires for ever just about.

It is a little pricy @ $5 a fill, but I try to use tanks I have allready dove with and still have 300-500 psi left.
 
I have one of these little Craftsman portables setting under my bench.
It only does 90 PSI, but thats plenty. Got it on sale for $88 a few years ago.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...flators&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

SCFM is not important for gun cleaning.
HP & SCFM only matter with air tools that use high volumns of air faster then the compresser can keep up.

My little 90 PSI portable does as well as the big 120 PSI jobbie out in the garage for gun cleaning.

rc
 
Oh, it's fair to middling loud, but nothing you can't live with. It only runs about 45-50 seconds to fill the tank from empty, and way less then that when it cycles while you are using it.

As an indication, I sometimes forget to unplug mine, and it's right below the bedroom in the basement.

Sometimes it will leak down in the middle of the night and come on for 15-20 seconds then shut off.
I never bother to get up and unplug it until the next morning.

BTW: We have three of them in the family. I liked mine so well after I got it, I bought both my sons one for xmas that fall.

rc
 
Thanks RC,

I'm leaning heavily towards that model. I've always had good luck with Craftsman gear.

I don't need a lot of power from a compressor so for me the sticking point is noise. As long as I don't need to plug-up every time it kicks in I'll be happy.

The cracked and foggy crystal ball says there might be a trip to Sears in the near future. :)
 
Another thought.

Sign up for the Craftsman Club card.

They send a sale flyer every month to members and they have that air compressor in about every other one I get for less money.

rc
 
Ding! Now there's an idea.

Never thought of the club card. I've got to stop by and exchange a couple of cracked sockets (gotta love that warranty:D). I'll ask about the club card info.

Thanks RC
 
RC / Wild Bill

Damn good choice for the purpose. I'm a believer in the oiled type compressors. I've worked on a couple of the POS "oilless" compressors and they are cheap and prone to wear. The only use for them is when there is a need for oil free air only.
My old Craftsman (Devilbiss built) belt drive compressor has lasted me 28 years so far. It stays plugged in ready for use in my home machine shop. I've run it hard on a few occasions on home improvement projects such as sanding 300 ft of 8" facia board down to bare wood with an orbital sander. Way over usage for the compressor and I had to use a big shop fan to keep the motor and compressor from overheating. It still has the original belt, motor and compressor.
Stick with the oil type compressor for long term usage.
 
If you are going to use a compressor for blowing out dirt, etc. from firearms, install an in-line dryer in the air hose. The compressor will compress any moisture in the air and blow it deep into the firearm. One humid days you will see the moisture coming out of the nozzle. the dryers are cheap and available at Sears, Lowe's, etc.
 
Thats another good suggestion.

I use an in-line moisture trap on both my compressors.

The one in the garage is always getting water in it.

The one on the little Craftsman in the basement?
Never.

Must be the heating & AC keeping the condensation down to next to zero.

rc
 
I made a good living as a factory certified compressed air tehnician, from fractional HP piston driven, to multi-stage rotary screw units to 200 HP. I was also factory trained on 5000 psi breathing air systems used by fire departments and scuba/dive shops. I also sold and serviced large medical air systems for hospitals.

For blowing out firearms, look for the largest receiver (air tank) to fit your space and budget. Steer clear of the ultra-cheapie oil-less units, they have an average lifespan of about 40 hours. Nearly all lubricated econo compressors are going to be direct driven.

As a caution, I don't recommend unplugging and re-plugging the cord, the inrush of current will eventually erode and damage the plug and outlet. Most units have small "disconnect" lever built into the pressure switch. If you find 2 similiar units, go for the one with this feature.

The little "dryers" only work to remove some moisture after the air in the tank has cooled, but these also double as particulate filters, a good thing.
 
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