Considering a 642 - have questions

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Grip compare follow up

Sorry about the crappy photo but I added this to show the size difference in the factory grips and the Pachmayr Compac's I recomended in my post above.

Mine is the one on the bottom with the factory grip, her's is the top.
As I said, it does add to the size but it's still small enough for carry.

David

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The airweights are generally carried a lot and shot a little. I carry a 642 as a BUG to my Glock27.The majority of my J frame practice is with my older steel model 60 snub. I fire a few cylinders of my carry ammo through the 642 at each range session. Another poster recommended a Ruger SP101. That is a good choice in that it is 26 oz and if you get the .357 practicing with .38 will be easy on the palm and you can move up to .357 later if you want. However, that Ruger SP101 loaded with the 158gr. "FBI" load for self defense would get the job done.
 
I carry and have a 642 & 442 and also carry a glock 26 & Kimber Ultra. My wife has shot my j-frames, 4" 686, glock 26 & 19, Kimber 1911's in 3",4" & 5", and my Ruger Mk III Hunter. She didn't like anything but the Ruger Mk III Hunter. I wanted a .380 for her as it has less recoil than the 9mm & 38 but more than the .22. I got her a Bersa Thunder, a Walther PPK clone, for half the price of the Walther and it seems to be a round she is cumfortable with for now. Hopefully she'll become more confident and move up to the 9mm or .38.
 
I have a 637, which is an Airweight in .38spl. It's similar to the 642, but the 637 has the "Chief's Special" frame with the exposed hammer instead of the "Centennial" frame with the shrouded hammer. Other than the ability to shoot single-action, the 637 behaves much like a 642.

It's not an easy gun to shoot well, but that's mostly because of the short sight radius and hard double-action trigger pull. The recoil can be brisk, but unless you're extremely recoil sensitive, it's not too bad to manage. I use standard pressure .38spl loads in mine. The Hornady XTP/JHP standard pressure rounds do very well in gel tests. They get good penetration with consistent expansion. I don't feel the need to go +P.
 
Pachmayr Compacs on all of my J-Frames (642,640,60,317) including the .22 317. That way I always have the same grip when drawing or firing a gun. I experimented with a dozen or so different grips, wood and rubber, and found Compacs fit my hand best and allowed best recoil control with .38 Spcl standard loads. I have a small hand, so figure accordingly.
 
Do the Pachmayr Compacs cover the back strap of the grip? My problem is that my fingers are too long for the stock grips on my 637. If this were a rifle or a shotgun, I'd say the "length of pull" was too short on my revolver. Does that term apply to handguns? lol.

Basically, by the time I've completed a full trigger pull, I have contracted my long trigger finger to a point where it is uncomfortably close to my palm. If the grip were larger (front to back, not side to side), then the heel of my palm would be farther away from the trigger.
 
I think that the S&W 642 will be a good fit for her, but I have some questions, as there seems to be a few different types of 642 revolvers

But what does she think? The biggest mistake most guys make is thinking lightweight is good for women. Lightweight equals substantial recoil. Have her try several guns with aluminum and steell frames. Steel weighs more but that weight gives you less recoil. My wife is tiny but likes her K frame Model 10 loaded with wadcutters and will shoot it all day. You don't gain a lot using a +P in a 2" revolver and accelerate wear. I carry factory 148 wadcutters in a J frame.

Just my advice that works for me.
 
Do the Pachmayr Compacs cover the back strap of the grip? My problem is that my fingers are too long for the stock grips on my 637. If this were a rifle or a shotgun, I'd say the "length of pull" was too short on my revolver. Does that term apply to handguns? lol.

Yes the Compacs cover the backstrap. See the size/style comparison in my pix via post #28.


Basically, by the time I've completed a full trigger pull, I have contracted my long trigger finger to a point where it is uncomfortably close to my palm. If the grip were larger (front to back, not side to side), then the heel of my palm would be farther away from the trigger.

Are you starting out with the "pad" of your trigger finger on the trigger? If not, try this. The "pad" is the proper contact point otherwise you run out of "room".
 
Yes. I'm using the pad of my finger, the same as I do on semiautos. If I use too much or too little trigger finger, I will "push" or "pull" the gun, throwing off my aim.
 
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