I have hunted and used rifles and shot guns all of my life. I backpack, hike, fish and use pack mules in backcountry. I am now considering the purchase of a handgun for self-defense (both at home and in backcountry), that is, its use would primarily be up close. Am considering a lightweight 357 mag. Don't know much about my options other than the SW 386PD Scandium/Titanium 2.5" at 17 oz. I'm thinking revolver because it may be safer to carry without self-inflicted wounds and fewer parts to cause problems from being packed and thrown around. Also thinking combo of single or double action. I won't shoot much, perhaps 20-50 rounds a year after first learning how to use it. Any Ideas? If other threads have already discussed, perhaps you could just point me in that direction.
Considering Handgun Purchase
- Thread starter Waddis
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WillBrayJr
Member
Welcome
I wouldn't bother with "wonder" metals. If you wan't a 357mag snubbie I recommend Ruger's SP-101 with a 3in barrel.
I wouldn't bother with "wonder" metals. If you wan't a 357mag snubbie I recommend Ruger's SP-101 with a 3in barrel.
TOADMAN
Member
I concur with WillBray Jr, the SP-101 is hard to beat for self defense/backpacking. I suggest that you shoot/practice much more than the 20-50 rounds a year that you mentioned.
MatthewVanitas
Member
I'd vote for either:
a) Ruger SP101 w/ 3" barrel, as above
b) Any S&W stainless .357 revolver, 3" or 4" barrel
Revolvers are easy to maintain, stainless steel makes them even easier to maintain.
The .357 cartridge will be great for defense, and you can shoot the cheaper .38 Special ammo through it for practice.
A good model of either of the above will last for decades with basic care.
Also strongly recommend that you shoot more than 50 practice rounds a year. A revolver, especially in double-action, does take a little bit of work to learn properly. You don't need to hit the range every day at 7AM and train for hours, but spending an hour or two every few weeks will help you greatly.
Also consider getting .38Spl "snap caps", dud rounds with springs or pads where the firing pin strikes. That way you can work on your sight picture and trigger control while sitting at home, watching TV, etc. It's the same as dry firing, but that $5 accessory helps avoid undue stress on your firing pin.
-MV
a) Ruger SP101 w/ 3" barrel, as above
b) Any S&W stainless .357 revolver, 3" or 4" barrel
Revolvers are easy to maintain, stainless steel makes them even easier to maintain.
The .357 cartridge will be great for defense, and you can shoot the cheaper .38 Special ammo through it for practice.
A good model of either of the above will last for decades with basic care.
Also strongly recommend that you shoot more than 50 practice rounds a year. A revolver, especially in double-action, does take a little bit of work to learn properly. You don't need to hit the range every day at 7AM and train for hours, but spending an hour or two every few weeks will help you greatly.
Also consider getting .38Spl "snap caps", dud rounds with springs or pads where the firing pin strikes. That way you can work on your sight picture and trigger control while sitting at home, watching TV, etc. It's the same as dry firing, but that $5 accessory helps avoid undue stress on your firing pin.
-MV
+1 on the SP-101
I have the 2-1/4" double action only model for CCW but if I were using it for backpacking I'd just get the 3" model for the extra muzzle velocity and wouldn't worry about the hammer snagging on clothing. With full-house .357 rounds the snubbie kicks pretty good despite it's weight, but nothing like the scandium guns do. Those little guys really hurt! In bear country I'd consider .41 mag a minimum, not sure where you backpack though. Aside from bears that .357 will likely handle all other predators.
My 2 cents...
gp911
I have the 2-1/4" double action only model for CCW but if I were using it for backpacking I'd just get the 3" model for the extra muzzle velocity and wouldn't worry about the hammer snagging on clothing. With full-house .357 rounds the snubbie kicks pretty good despite it's weight, but nothing like the scandium guns do. Those little guys really hurt! In bear country I'd consider .41 mag a minimum, not sure where you backpack though. Aside from bears that .357 will likely handle all other predators.
My 2 cents...
gp911
SouthpawShootr
Member
I have 2 SP101s and they're great. My 3 inch .357 is pretty much a range, backwoods type gun as it's so heavy that it requires a good belt and holster. I have a Titanium Taurus 85 and a S&W 642 (aluminum frame, stainless barrel and cylinder). My 642 gets the nod for carry. I've seen lots of bad experiences on these boards with the exotic metals (Titanium, Scandium) so I pretty much avoid those for carry guns and go for aluminum frames (S&W has lots of experience in making these). Stoke it with .38 +Ps and be content. The lightweight .357 guns are a neat concept but it will take much work. Recoil is an absolutely obnoxious with fullhouse .357 loads.
RCL
Member
There's a lot to be said for going with a heavier revolver. I have a S&W M629 .44 Mag Mountain Gun, and with the skinny barrel on these, muzzle rise is severe, even with factory 240 grain loads. This gun is on the light side for a 44. My heavier Ruger is easy to shoot in comparison.
On the other hand, my S&W 686 .357 (4" barrel) is easy to shoot with any factory load I have put through it so far. This gun is moderate to heavy for a .357 mag.
A stout belt and well made holster will make all the difference in the world when it comes to packing a heavier gun.
On the other hand, my S&W 686 .357 (4" barrel) is easy to shoot with any factory load I have put through it so far. This gun is moderate to heavy for a .357 mag.
A stout belt and well made holster will make all the difference in the world when it comes to packing a heavier gun.
while I love my SP-101's (I have three) I'm going a different route and saying 3" GP-100 when weight isn't a huge factor which covers your uses except for backpacking. With the GP you get a sixth round of .357 while the SP only offers five unless you get the .32 or .22 which in your case I doubt. I like the GP for defense better since with the added weight and mass you can handle the hottest loads better especially if you don't intend to practice a lot, the SP requires a bit of practice to handle the hot stuff well. The GP is one tough customer and will handle being bounced and jounced very well, the SP will too, so this is a moot point. I'd try both and the one that instantly feels at home in your hand is the one you should pick.
Personal preference for an outdoors packing pistol in my mind is a 4 5/8" Blackhawk in .41mag, but you said DA .357 so you don't get the Blackhawk lecture.
Personal preference for an outdoors packing pistol in my mind is a 4 5/8" Blackhawk in .41mag, but you said DA .357 so you don't get the Blackhawk lecture.
If the revolver is primarily for backpacking, I can understand the interest in the scandium revolver. I've seen how much store charge for titanium forks. The 368PD would serve you well for anything up to bear. Shooting full power 357 loads will hurt, and I would recommend practicing with at least 100 rounds per month.
Another revolver you might consider is the Taurus 627SH4C. The 4" ported barrel and ribber grips will make shooting easier, and the extra 1" - 1.5" barrel will get the bullet moving a little faster. Still not enough for bear in my opinion, but every little bit helps.
If you are carrying in bear country, don't bother to shoot them in the head, and don't shoot hollow points. Many people whose opinion is far better informed than mine say that even 44 magnum isn't guaranteed to penetrate a bear's skull. Also, with something as large as a bear, you want as much penetration as possilbe, so flat point hard cast bullets wold be better. I would aim for the throat or heart/lung area, and empty the gun, preferrable using a large tree trunk in front of me as a rest/barrier.
Another revolver you might consider is the Taurus 627SH4C. The 4" ported barrel and ribber grips will make shooting easier, and the extra 1" - 1.5" barrel will get the bullet moving a little faster. Still not enough for bear in my opinion, but every little bit helps.
If you are carrying in bear country, don't bother to shoot them in the head, and don't shoot hollow points. Many people whose opinion is far better informed than mine say that even 44 magnum isn't guaranteed to penetrate a bear's skull. Also, with something as large as a bear, you want as much penetration as possilbe, so flat point hard cast bullets wold be better. I would aim for the throat or heart/lung area, and empty the gun, preferrable using a large tree trunk in front of me as a rest/barrier.
WillBrayJr
Member
Waddis said:
Rifles and shotguns
Waddis
I appareciate the additional suggestions.
I backpack only in Black Bear country (but wolves trying to eat my dog will quickly become a problem). I rarely go into Big Bear country, but if I do, I won't be there without a rifle in hand.
Based upon what I've heard so far, I'll check out the .357 Ruger and S&W Stainless, then shoot the lightweights to compare. I think weight will be a big issue when backpacking. I don't want to leave the gun at home because it is too heavy to carry. I think I'd rather have a harder to shoot lightweight than no gun at all.
Thanks,
Waddis
I appareciate the additional suggestions.
I backpack only in Black Bear country (but wolves trying to eat my dog will quickly become a problem). I rarely go into Big Bear country, but if I do, I won't be there without a rifle in hand.
Based upon what I've heard so far, I'll check out the .357 Ruger and S&W Stainless, then shoot the lightweights to compare. I think weight will be a big issue when backpacking. I don't want to leave the gun at home because it is too heavy to carry. I think I'd rather have a harder to shoot lightweight than no gun at all.
Thanks,
Waddis
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