Considering my first revolver

[Zeede]

This will be my first serious handgun as well. I am an avid clays shooter, so I have more shotguns that I really should and have shotguns well covered. My first gun was a CZ 452 Full Stock and I lovingly restored a M1 Garand, so I have rifles well covered.

Handguns are another story. When all you've shot is long guns, it feels odd not having something braced up against the shoulder pocket. That said, I have done a lot of pistol shooting, I just don't own any except for a Beretta U22 NEOS in .22 LR. Great gun, put over 1k rounds through it w/o cleaning and nary a jam. I want to graduate up to a centerfire pistol cartridge to be well rounded (shotgun/rifle/hand gun).

I'm considering a revolver for several reasons:
1) Reliability. This gun will be trained with, as I intend to have it at home for home defense. Hopefully my training will never be needed, as home invasions aren't high on my list of "things to experience before I die", but you never know. Always good to be prepared.
2) Ease of maintenance. Time-wise it doesn't take *that* much longer to clean my gas autoloader shotgun, but a complete and thorough cleaning is definitely easier with my break-action shotguns.

Now as for caliber, I've selected the .357 mag. I'm looking specifically at Smith & Wesson's offerings, their Model 327 M&P R8. Now I have shot .357 on many occasions, as one of my good friends has a .357 mag revolver (I'm not sure what model). I am aware that it has a good bit more recoil than your run-of-the-mill 9mm autoloader, but I have also shot compact .45 acp Glocks and 1911's, and while the noise was much louder, I didn't have any issues with recoil.

I'm new to revolvers, and would appreciate some expert advice, as can always be found here in THR.

Thanks!

Cameron

 

[Hutch]

Not bad choices at all, but If you were my younger brother, I'd suggest you try a steel (carbon or stainless) revolver, rather than a tricked-out "unobtanium" model. If you want new, I'd opt for a Smith 686. If you are comfortable shopping and evaluating used guns, I'd suggest you look for a Smith 19 or 66. Let us know how this turns out for you.

 

[Pat Cannon]

+1 on the steel vs. lightweight alloy, if you're not going to carry. My Ruger SP101 with the rubber Hogue monogrip is a pleasure to shoot with even ferocious loads. I shot .357 Magnum from a scandium S&W J-frame, once. Screw that.

But, if you're not planning on carrying it around, a shotgun is a vastly superior home defense weapon. If you just want a revolver anyway, I think people here would understand.

 

[Mike Franklin]

If the gun is for home defense why do you need a little gun? You might be better served by a full sized .357. If recoil is a concern find yourself a S&S M 28. I've shot some real smokin' loads out of mine with no problem at all. The one I keep in the closet is the same one I used in my first shooting. It will still do the job if need be.

 

[dwf6666]

For your first revolver, you can't go wrong with a 686. It can be had in any barrel length you like to meet your needs. Prices are reasonable in the used market and they can be had without the lock that so many find objectionable. I have several, but here is my favorite.

 

[Zeede]

Ah, see, I don't know that much about revolvers, I just saw that it had a capacity of 8, and my assumption was that anything over 6 is relatively rare in revolvers. Edit: What's wrong with an alloy frame? Not as durable in the long run? Needlessly lighter than steel?

Shotguns would be my first choice for home defense, but sometimes it is not the best option. For example, I can stick a hand gun in my pocket and go investigate without necessarily escalating or spooking my neighbors. You'll see I live in California, so I don't need ignorant neighbors calling the cops just because I heard a noise.

So why one S&W revolver over another? Do some have better triggers? It's all a bit overwhelming, what with N, K, XYZ-frames, and model numbers that don't make any sense to me.

Cameron

 

[pps]

If you want 8 shot, then the stainless 627 might fit the bill. Mine is a 5" barrel. There are 4" barrels now available too.

 

[Zeede]

Looks like there's an eight-shot 627 from Performance Center for about $950, but the seven-shot 686 is $650.

Edit: For home defense I will want a hammerless model, right? The last thing I need is the hammer getting stuck on something as I try and pull it out of my pocket. Plus as I understand it, hammerless models are DAO, which is good for me. I'll be forced to learn the DA trigger pull instead of "cheating" and pulling the hammer back to make it SA. In a real-life situation I likely will not want it carried in SA, and I might not have time to cock the hammer if the need arises.

Or am I off base here?

Cameron

 

[Hawk]

,,,what with N, K, XYZ-frames, and model numbers that don't make any sense to me.

Understanding Smith & Wesson model numbers is a sure sign you've been hanging around the forum too much or bought too many books. I've only been "back into" revolvers for a couple of years now so I'll offer a couple of "from the noob" observations. Some go cross-grain with the forum majority.

Actually, only one goes cross-grain: don't bet on revolvers being 100% reliable 100% of the time. The new ones would be a good bet but if you engage in a hunt for pre-lock S&Ws or DA Colts you'll be in the used market and the quality of previous use varies. Some folks just can't stand not tweaking the double action pull - I've already gotten one 686 and one Python that wouldn't light a Fiocchi to save their respective souls. Not a biggie at the range with a box of Feds but not something nice if you're buying for serious uses. Try 'em out first and you'll be fine. Strain screws are easily replaced. Light strikes aren't something obvious from the "revolver check out" thread above - they'll become obvious when the trigger is too good but early on "too good" has no context.

Do an occasional "pre-flight check". Extractor rods have been known to unscrew themselves which makes opening the cylinder more interesting than it needs to be. In fact, most anything with threads might well unscrew itself - not a big deal but it's something you probably didn't think about with an auto. Don't let crud accumulate under the extractor star - it'll bind stuff up worse than an all-cheese diet. Rugers are pretty much immune from the screw issues.

A Smith & Wesson with a frame lock has a non-zero chance of glitching up but I personally view it as vanishingly unlikely - at least less likely than some gremlin living inside a used one. I'd suggest staying clear of used Colts early on - if they need work, good luck getting it and they don't suffer home gunsmithing gracefully.

The alloy framed products just recoil harder - Isaac Newton at work. I'm not aware of any major wear issues.

A .357 through a 686 or 27 is actually fun. I can't say the same about the weightless guns.

My quick and dirty frame types:
"J" - little guys.
"K" - medium guys. Chambered for .22 through .357.
"L" - a "K" with an extra layer of socks. .357
"N" - larger frame .357 through .44 typically. The .357 used to be a six-shooter, now it's 8, I gather.
"X" - Kerlumphing frame - used to remove thumbs.
All are subject to numerous, seemingly random, exceptions.

Hammerless is good for pocket carry, typically seen on snub-nosed things. I'd get something more traditional (read: heavy, with hammer) for .357. Single action fire is one of reasons people like revolvers - you should try it. The range babes don't kick sand in my face for using it. Much. Defensive use is double action and one carried for defensive use should be (according to one Grant Cunningham) rendered double action only but for one around the house, I'd leave the typical 686 as it came.

Good luck and welcome.

 

[skoro]

I'd recommend a k-frame Smith & Wesson; either a Model 13 or Model 65. You'll probably hear some griping about my choices, but they're real fine shooters that handle well. Practice with 38 special ammo, but load it with 357 for home defense. The 4" barrel is probably the most useful length.

 

[Zeede]

Thanks for all the info! Why is the 4" barrel the most useful length?

Also, I disagree with practicing with .38 special ammo. If I ever have to use the gun to protect my family I'm already going to be jacked up on adrenaline, and probably sleepy. Last thing I need is rounds that kick a few magnitudes more than I practiced with.

Cameron

 

[Zeede]

Here seem to be some of the ones that fit my criteria. I specifically looked at weight, as that will really help mitigate recoil. Also, I do plan on buying new.

Model 620 / 7 rounds / 4" barrel / 36.9 oz / MSRP $814
Model 686 Plus / 7 rounds / 4" barrel / 38.9 oz / MSRP $853
Model 627 / 8 rounds / 4" barrel / 42.0 oz / MSRP $916
Model 627 Pro / 8 rounds / 4" barrel / 41.2 oz / MSRP $964
Model 627 V-Comp / 8 rounds / 5" barrel / 47.0 oz / MSRP $1533
Model M&P R8 / 8 rounds / 5" barrel / 36.2 oz / MSRP $1311
Model 327 TRR8 / 8 rounds / 5" barrel / 35.3 oz / MSRP $1311
Model 627 PC / 8 rounds / 5" barrel / 44.0 oz / MSRP $1272

A few questions:
1) Unless I miss my mark, a few ounces shouldn't make any difference, recoil-wise, unless of course we're talking about a different frame.
2) How effective is the muzzle brake on the V-Comp? Does it increase the volume of the report? Will the flash blind me in a nighttime home defense scenario?

Cameron

 

[memphisjim]

first revolver must be 357 mag

 

[pps]

Speaking from personal experience, the muzzle brake works in reducing muzzle flip. I rarely use the brake, as the weighted barrel tames recoil so well on its own and the brake is a pita to clean....I shoot mostly lead. I'd get the standard 627 PC Center if I were to do it over again.

For home defense, it doesn't matter if a gun is hammerless or not.

I have a 340pd made out of scadnium (flyoutofyourhandnium) alloy. It's my favorite ccw gun, but my LEAST favorite to shoot. As such I shoot just enough to stay proficient with it (about 100rds/month).

Lew Horton has an 8 shot model 27 that has the classic blued Smith and Wesson look that I wish were available when I bought my 627. Now THAT is an 8 shot with style. Both in 3 and 5 inch barrels


PS

As to the 38 specials, don't give it a second thought. Use them as target, plinking, squirrel, or rabbit gun. Just practice with the .357 rounds too. I've jest settled on using 158gr ammo, in both 38 and .357. I end up using a combat hold on the 38's and a "Navy Hold"...ie 6 oclock of the target for the .357's The only time I have to change elevation on my rear site is when I use 185grain screamers for hunting...these hit 10 inches high at 25 yards.

This is why I love the .357 Enough kick to let you know it's still a magnum, yet tame enough to shoot mousefart loadings with the kick of a 22.

 

[GP100]

My vote is for the Ruger GP100. 3" fixed sight for carry or 4"or 6" adjustable sight for home or target. Blue or Stainless, your choice...

 

[Zip7]

Well, My house gun is a 357, but it's a Ruger Blackhawk which is SA.

If you are going to train with it, I'd suggest not going with a hammerless model. More fun to shoot in SA mode. The reason I reach for the blackhawk is that I've been shooting that type of gun all my life. Either that one, or a 22LR version - same workings. So I'm very familiar with it.

Also very fun to shoot at the range. I have an N frame S&W model 27 also and it is a fine gun, but I still like the Blackhawk better.

Where I live, max firepower is not a concern - not much crime here.

If I were shopping for a DA 357 I would look at Ruger GP100. I actually have a SP101 that my mom keeps around her house - loaded with 38's. It's a handy size too.

 

[Shade00]

Do you have to go with a full-sized, really expensive, new S&W? For the price of one of those S&Ws you could get several fine used revolvers, or heck, two new Rugers. My vote would go to a DAO SP-101 .357 + 4" or 6" GP-100. Now that would be a fun combo. That's just the new end of the spectrum.

There are so many possibilities for used guns, it can be scary - however, there are plenty of quality guns out there. Read over the checkout thread and then get your hands on revolvers to understand what the steps are. Once you understand these things, you can get a better idea of what you're looking at.

If it were my money, I would buy the S&W 681 I saw priced at $250, the S&W 19-3 I saw priced at $300, and the S&W 28-2 I saw priced at just over $400. Of course, these are all deals I found locally and you will have to do your own shopping to locate such guns - but they are out there. You can get a great combo of guns for that kind of money.

 

[bestseller92]

The Ruger GP100 is VERY hard to beat. I'd take mine over any Smith.

 

[Elvishead]

When I got my 327, I was worried about recoil.

Recoil isn't all that bad with MY 327 M&P, "at all"

Note, little muzzle rise.

www.youtube.com/v/N-RIsh9fsWY&rel=1

Awesome gun, you'd love it to pieces. I know I do.

If you want a tank of a revolver, the 627s are awesome to.

Me rapid firing my V-Comp with full .357 Fiocchi 142g FMJ. Note Flames.


http://www.youtube.com/v/xpUXzDOEuCU&hl=en

To be honest with you, I mainly keep my small Airweight J-frame 638 for home, and my big .357s are a back-up. Go figure!

 

[don95sml]

It's refreshing to hear from a revolver "newbie" that doesn't insist on a top quality gun for a bargain basement price. As a shotgun veteran, you already know that a little more money can pay real dividends in performance. A number of good recommendations have already been posted, so I won't add any more. Primarily, I want to commend you for your diligent pursuit of the right gun and your thoughtful questions.

 

[22-rimfire]

I'm no expert. I would choose the Smith 686 (or 586) as it is about the same size as the Colt Python and a good shooting size and help to handle the recoil of the 357 mag loads. It doesn't particularly bother me or impress me if one holds 7 or 8 or 15 rounds; six was always fine for me.

I'd choose either a 4" or 5". Bass Pro sells a nice 5". I've handled them and they feel great and I would expect them to shoot well also. Picked one up and immediately thought... I want one. Maybe you will feel the same.

Don't worry about exposed hammers for home defense. Makes them safer and easier to hit what you are trying to hit. Light weight frames simply magnify the recoil and some feel the recoil of a 357 as stout.

All this said, I am a 41 mag fan (mostly Model 57's) and my regular 357's are a 6" Colt Trooper Mark III and a 3" Ruger GP100. I like both of them.

 

[Fishman777]

Lots of good choices...

I prefer Ruger DA revolvers, but out of the choices that you mentioned, I think that the 627 would be the better gun.

If the 627 got to be a little too expensive to swallow, I'd get a 686+. I've gotta be honest with you: I wouldn't spend $1200 to $1500 on a performance center Smith. Don't get me wrong, I like them just fine, but for that kind of money, I'd get a Freedom Arms SA revolver chambered either in .357 magnum or .45 colt.

If I went with a 686+, I'd probably try to find an older specimen. While I respect newer Smiths, I don't think that the newer Smiths are as nice as the older ones. Give me a 686+ pre-lock, pre-MIM, and I'd be very happy.

 

[Stainz]

The 620 is simply a 4" 686+ (7-shooter) with a partially lugged barrel - and a little lower new price.

Now, if price is not important, for ~$100 more, you can get a 627 Pro. Mine is a keeper for sure. I like the look - and love the spring mounted front sight (Mine sports a HiViz now - and a Miculek grip.). They will take 8-shot moonclips, too. They do weigh a bit more - and the grip/trigger reach are a tad larger than the K/L frames. The eased ejector star makes for faster reloading, too - and the 'slight' trigger job is appreciated, too. A great value, in my opinion.

Stainz

 

[tred1956]

My first 357 was a Smith model 19 with a 4 inch barrel. Being the only gun I owned at the time it got shot ALOT. Pick one that is comfortable in your hand and Shoot Shoot Shoot.
Practice is much more important than which gun you choose.

Safe shooting
Doug

 

[Brass Rain]

The Ruger GP-100 series sounds like what you're looking for. It comes in blued and stainless and in 3", 4", and 6" barrels.

The stainless 4" KGP-141 seems right.

If you don't want to go Ruger, the Smith & Wesson 686 will have less durability and a smoother trigger for fifty to a hundred bucks more. The Ruger is usually around $480-500 new.