Convert to fixed sights?

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Arp32

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I have a 5" S&W 686+ on order, and am looking forward to picking it up any day now.

Question is, is it even feasible to convert it to fixed sights? I have a 642 and a 64-5 (my favorite plinker) and I really like their fixed sights for simplicity and reliability/durability. I'm not some kind of crack shot that adjusts elevation for different loads. Never knocked a fixed sight loose, either. Less to snag, too, not that I plan to use an L-frame for CCW.

What is the frame like under the rear sight in a 686+? Is there already a trench, or enough steel for a competent gunsmith to mill one in? Obviously would have to shave down the front sight for elevation.

Is this line of thinking even practical? I would forget about it if it came to welding new steel to the frame - seems a step too far...

Thanks in advance.
 
First of all, I'd wait until I had a problem with the adjustable sight before thinking about converting it. I've never had an adjustable sight break on me.

Secondly, if you must convert it, the quickest and cheapest way is simply to trade it for fixed sight revolver.

Converting it would probably require welding up the sight recess, then milling a slot -- with no guarantee the gun would shoot to point of aim afterwards.
 
If they made a 5" or 6" 681+, I would have ordered it instead...

RC, thanks for the link. Not what I had in mind but I do like the looks of it. That might be where I end up.

To be honest, if I applied the logic of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" to even half of my projects, well, I'd probably have half the projects.
 
I like that the ad promises if you ditch the adjustable sights in favor of their NINETY DOLLAR fixed version it will make yours a "tactical revolver."

I always wondered how to do that. Now I know.

(Note to self: Put fancy scope ONTO a rifle to make it tactical. Take fancy sights OFF OF a revolver to make it tactical. Useful info, that!)
 
I can understand it in theory but in use, I've never had a problem with an adjustable rear sight. Especially a steel one. Although my brother did manage to break the aluminum rear sight of his Ruger MKIII......somehow. :confused:
 
I've had 2 get wobbly on 1911's, one Colt factory GI sight and a Novak low mount I had professionally installed. Dovetailed 1911 sights are a different animal than an
L-frame sight, but that's where I'm coming from.

I just like that my revolvers never snag on my shirt and the sights never work themselves loose.

As to the "tactical," that makes me want a product less...
 
How about half way in the middle?

Yes the windage housing and blade on a typical S&W is a little bulky and could be considered by some as snag prone and possibley vulnerable to breakage. Losing that round housing and thin blade in trade for a rear sight that was more compact and had sloping sides front and back for a no snag sort of profile would not be all that hard. But the elevation adjustment is simply a single screw with the whole forward leg of the sight acting as a spring.

A good metal worker could machine up and shape a nice trim no snag sort of rear sight that still retains the elevation adjustment and that would look a lot more trim than the present windage adjustable sight.

The aiming groove would be cut undersize at first and carefuly deepened with some shooting to check the windage. Careful deepening and trimming out would ensure you end up with a very useable sight that still retains the elevation adjustment. Yet it would look very stout and almost like a fixed sight to any casual viewers.

What'cha think o' that idea?

Now having suggested all this I have yet to have a single snag or other issue with any of my S&W's that have adjustable sights. But it's your gun and if that's what you want then I'm here to suggest what I feel is an interesting way to help you spend your money.... :D
 
That C&S sight set was what I thought about when I read your thread title too...didn't know they were $90.

I shot a revolver,that belonged to a student, with them installed during a class. They are very rugged and provide a very clear sight picture...much better then that on the fix sighted 681.

The blade on a S&W adjustable rear sight does sit rather proud...much more exposed than the Colt Accro rear blade. My Colt Python, that I used to carry on duty, has been drop a couple of time and it never knocked the blade askew
 
I think the sight probably has some merit on a concealed carry weapon. More for snag-free operation than fixed-sight robustitude (new word, all mine;)).
 
That C&S replacement set is exactly what I was thinking of with the excepetion that the rear screw would still be adjustable for elevation.

But come to think about it the C&S sight would still be adjustable by using a small metal packing shim under the rear and using the screws tightening down to "spring" the bar slightly and raise the rear sight. So the sights could be tuned to the load of preference and all would be well and the sun would shine brightly every day.
 
I've come around in my thoughts about fixed/adjustable sights. I used to think about making a fixed sight Ruger before they made the Vaqueros, now I think about putting Smith rear sights on my Vaqueros.

I cracked a Smith 29 rear sight, but it took work, and was still usable. Dropping it on a steel truck bumper and hitting right on the sight did it, but hasn't diminished my liking them a bit. The advantages are greater than the detractions in my estimation. You may not be "a crack shot", but being able to adjust your sights to hit exactly where you want them and not have to figure out where to hold with that particular gun when wanting to it something is well worth the theoretical disadvantage of adjustables. You don't have to adjust them for every load (I never have), just once for your main load, and perhaps again if you decide to use a different load as your main load at some time in the future.

There are different heights of Smith rear blades. If one doesnt care for the tall rear sight blade you could get the low one and file the front to fit and get it lower. I've done it on Rugers, I left a few clicks of adjustment from bottomed out, then filed it in to hit. I've filed rear blades lower also, then tuned the front to match.
 
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