colt1911fan
Member
whats the best way to remove cosmoline off of your rifle and will it soak into the wood and if so how do you get it out?
Cosmoline!
- Thread starter colt1911fan
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BobTheTomato
Member
Paint thinner or parts cleaner
I have never had to do it but have been told very hot boiling water will take it off. Gasoline will remove almost anything. Last time I needed to remove any I just used Windex and Simple green on internal parts I had removed for cleaning. Brake Cleaner works on most thing too. I have heard of guys placing smaller parts in a pan and boiling. Ruins the pan but gets the stuff off. Hope these options help.
1KPerDay
Member
Best is a very relative term.
Last one I did I used Purple Power and it worked a treat.
Last one I did I used Purple Power and it worked a treat.
Cosmoline
Member
You called?
For steel parts very hot near-boiling water aided with simple detergent is enough. Just like cleaning soot out of a flintlock. Follow with immediate and very thorough drying and oiling. The metal parts should all be broken down and separated from the wood, of course. And the small parts can be cleaned in a tray with some rags and CLP. Use a scrubber brush on any dried patches and scrub well inside the chamber area. Most of the grease will melt off. If you have challenged old drains you may want to do this in an outside trough. Remember that it's the heat that's doing the main work. Water itself won't cut it. It has to be water hot enough, and enough of it, to heat the cosmo past its melt point and then it slips off in globs.
For wood, if there was a finish on before they dunked it you should be fine with wet rags and elbow grease. Your goal is to get down to the original finish, not beyond it. If the wood was unfinished the cosmoline may have soaked in. That's when you have to get creative. There are a lot of options, many of which will harm the wood. Time and heat seem to be the best ones.
For steel parts very hot near-boiling water aided with simple detergent is enough. Just like cleaning soot out of a flintlock. Follow with immediate and very thorough drying and oiling. The metal parts should all be broken down and separated from the wood, of course. And the small parts can be cleaned in a tray with some rags and CLP. Use a scrubber brush on any dried patches and scrub well inside the chamber area. Most of the grease will melt off. If you have challenged old drains you may want to do this in an outside trough. Remember that it's the heat that's doing the main work. Water itself won't cut it. It has to be water hot enough, and enough of it, to heat the cosmo past its melt point and then it slips off in globs.
For wood, if there was a finish on before they dunked it you should be fine with wet rags and elbow grease. Your goal is to get down to the original finish, not beyond it. If the wood was unfinished the cosmoline may have soaked in. That's when you have to get creative. There are a lot of options, many of which will harm the wood. Time and heat seem to be the best ones.
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Many people say taking the stock off and putting it in a black garbage bag in the sun will leech the gunk right out of it.
It may take several sessions but it works and you're not using any chemicals at all.
PS it's seriously messy, treat it like you're degreasing an engine, not something you want to do at the kitchen table.
I used deisel fuel on all the metal parts, comsoline pretty much dissolves in it. Again, no smoking do it outdoors.
It may take several sessions but it works and you're not using any chemicals at all.
PS it's seriously messy, treat it like you're degreasing an engine, not something you want to do at the kitchen table.
I used deisel fuel on all the metal parts, comsoline pretty much dissolves in it. Again, no smoking do it outdoors.
Shadow 7D
Member
BOILING WATER
Check it out
melts it off, it's hot so it dries quickly
then you clean and lube as usual.
Check it out
melts it off, it's hot so it dries quickly
then you clean and lube as usual.
stonecutter2
Member
First, I remove all i can superficially using rags, q-tips, whatever.
For metal parts, I've used odorless mineral spirits. Doesn't take a lot, you can reuse it later if you save it. Get one of those disposable tupperware containers. Soak the parts, let them sit a little bit, then wipe off the cosmo with an old toothbrush or gun cleaning brush. Then oil the parts well (the mineral spirits will pull all oil off of the metal - so oil immediately). I actually use two containers - one to soak in mineral spirits, one to spray oil onto the parts when clean (Rem Oil spray bottle).
For wood, I've done one of two things:
Put it out in the hot sun on a black garbage bag in the backyard. When it weeps, wipe it with a rag you don't care about. Eventually it will stop weeping.
I've also used a small, weak space heater from Walmart that just barely got to the melting point of cosmoline. I held the stock in front of the heater, and gradually got it closer until the heater was warm enough to make the cosmo weep out. For my cheap $14 heater, that meant 1" away from the heater. I then wiped what wept, and moved section by section until it stopped weeping.
Cosmoline was typically warmed up, then applied to guns. Warming it up again and wiping it off "reverses" the process without unintentional harm using other cleaners and stuff. Wood does soak it up, so heating makes the cosmo weep back out. Heating makes the cosmo liquid again, and the wood will weep it out.
However, basically if you cut the greasey petroleum jelly-like substance with any degreaser, you'll get it cleaned off. Just remember to oil well with a rust protective oil.
For metal parts, I've used odorless mineral spirits. Doesn't take a lot, you can reuse it later if you save it. Get one of those disposable tupperware containers. Soak the parts, let them sit a little bit, then wipe off the cosmo with an old toothbrush or gun cleaning brush. Then oil the parts well (the mineral spirits will pull all oil off of the metal - so oil immediately). I actually use two containers - one to soak in mineral spirits, one to spray oil onto the parts when clean (Rem Oil spray bottle).
For wood, I've done one of two things:
Put it out in the hot sun on a black garbage bag in the backyard. When it weeps, wipe it with a rag you don't care about. Eventually it will stop weeping.
I've also used a small, weak space heater from Walmart that just barely got to the melting point of cosmoline. I held the stock in front of the heater, and gradually got it closer until the heater was warm enough to make the cosmo weep out. For my cheap $14 heater, that meant 1" away from the heater. I then wiped what wept, and moved section by section until it stopped weeping.
Cosmoline was typically warmed up, then applied to guns. Warming it up again and wiping it off "reverses" the process without unintentional harm using other cleaners and stuff. Wood does soak it up, so heating makes the cosmo weep back out. Heating makes the cosmo liquid again, and the wood will weep it out.
However, basically if you cut the greasey petroleum jelly-like substance with any degreaser, you'll get it cleaned off. Just remember to oil well with a rust protective oil.
Jaybird78
Member
Google " box of truth " and it should come up. This guy buys all sorts of milsurps and refurbs them. I found it entertaining. He gives range reports of the firearms also.
Have fun cleaning.....I did.
Have fun cleaning.....I did.
stonecutter2
Member
Yeah, cleaning milsurps is part of the fun of getting one, I think!
Strykervet
member
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- 1,610
You can do the hot water way, but it will remove any protection the metal has at a microscopic level. I'd recommend putting a heavy coat of CLP on it after getting it perfectly dry (the hotter the water, the faster it will dry) and letting it sit like that for awhile, as in a few days.
You can also use gunscrub, it is a spray can cleaner like brake cleaner but for weapons. It will damage rubber, can damage plastics, don't know about wood stocks but I would be careful. Should dissolve it instantly, this stuff is what I used to clean my SAW when I was a SAW gunner.
You know, I had to stay late and clean that stuff out of .50 BMG's one night when we got 'em issued for the Strykers (they were made in WWII!!!). New in box, packed in cosmoline, then repacked in wood crates that were filled with some kind of liquid that dried into a dense foam. That foam was harder to get out than the cosmoline, but for the life of me, I can't recall what we used. Must have been dental picks and CLP then...
We used to take a pressure washer and use very hot water and detergent to clean machineguns after the field for awhile when we had stupid inspections (read: ridiculous inspections) and then folks started using it to clean their M4's. The rest of the company couldn't figure out how our platoon was getting all the weapons detail clean for white glove inspection in just 4 hours. When the CO found out we were using a pressure washer, he had a coniption fit.
I've actually seen bolts and carriers fail when a unit used this cleaning method as SOP. It strips any CLP you put on there and the metal weakens and actually rusts slowly from the inside out. Each time you clean it, you strip the protective layer away but clean the outside surface, then put a thin layer back on --this prevents surface rust so you don't see the damage until the part breaks. Blew my mind, never thought they'd fail like that.
You can also use gunscrub, it is a spray can cleaner like brake cleaner but for weapons. It will damage rubber, can damage plastics, don't know about wood stocks but I would be careful. Should dissolve it instantly, this stuff is what I used to clean my SAW when I was a SAW gunner.
You know, I had to stay late and clean that stuff out of .50 BMG's one night when we got 'em issued for the Strykers (they were made in WWII!!!). New in box, packed in cosmoline, then repacked in wood crates that were filled with some kind of liquid that dried into a dense foam. That foam was harder to get out than the cosmoline, but for the life of me, I can't recall what we used. Must have been dental picks and CLP then...
We used to take a pressure washer and use very hot water and detergent to clean machineguns after the field for awhile when we had stupid inspections (read: ridiculous inspections) and then folks started using it to clean their M4's. The rest of the company couldn't figure out how our platoon was getting all the weapons detail clean for white glove inspection in just 4 hours. When the CO found out we were using a pressure washer, he had a coniption fit.
I've actually seen bolts and carriers fail when a unit used this cleaning method as SOP. It strips any CLP you put on there and the metal weakens and actually rusts slowly from the inside out. Each time you clean it, you strip the protective layer away but clean the outside surface, then put a thin layer back on --this prevents surface rust so you don't see the damage until the part breaks. Blew my mind, never thought they'd fail like that.
Ruger44mag
Member
Haha I thought this thread had to do with you at first lol.
Cosmoline
Member
I chose that name back on TFL years ago when I was covered in the gunk from Yugo Mausers.
wally
Member
Absolutely!
After having done it with my Romanian SKS, I'll never go back to using diesel fuel.
Cosmoline said:
LOL I thought someone was trying to get your attention.
I've always just used CLP or Rem oil to get it off the metal parts. I haven't had to remove any from wood, so I can't give much advice about that, you could probably just wipe it off and let the wood soak up the residue.
wojownik
Member
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- May 15, 2009
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- 2,086
For stocks, I've wrapped the wood in tin foil, and put on the dash of my car. In the summer sun, heats up nicely and the cosmo leeches out. I've used things ranging from paper towels to rags to diapers inside the wrap to help soak up the cosmoline.
Need to make sure the stock is wrapped really well, so the cosmo doesn't leak out. The black trash bag idea might be safer, less change of leakage.
Need to make sure the stock is wrapped really well, so the cosmo doesn't leak out. The black trash bag idea might be safer, less change of leakage.
Shadow 7D
Member
If you don't mind dust and time
Put the stock in a bag of kitty litter, in the trunk of your car, and park in the sun for 2 weeks.
Put the stock in a bag of kitty litter, in the trunk of your car, and park in the sun for 2 weeks.
loadedround
Member
Just a word of caution. Gasoline (outside) will remove cosmoline extremly well from both wood and metal parts. Severa'l years ago a bought an SKS covered in cosmo and proceded to clean it outside at our picnic table. I used a large tub and a gallon of gasoline, and many rags to clean the stripped SKS. The gas did an excellent job of cleaning up the rifle, getting down it to bare metal and wood. Now the problem, I could not get rid of the gasoline smell and it was so bad my wife banned it from the rec room to the garage. Even many sessions in the hot sun couldn't get rid of that smell. Finally sold it to keep the peace.
atblis
Member
Boiling water first to get the bulk of it.
I've used the flour solvent paste method. You smear it all over, let it dry, the grease ends up trapped in the flour after the solvent is gone. Brush off the flour. Reapply. Acetone works. I tend to use Xylene. Wear the correct gloves and do it outdoors!
I've gone to using hot soap and water on many guns for general cleaning. As long as your rinse and dry and oil immediately, no harm done. A gun with a fragile blue finish I probably wouldn't, but AR15s and such...have at it.
I've used the flour solvent paste method. You smear it all over, let it dry, the grease ends up trapped in the flour after the solvent is gone. Brush off the flour. Reapply. Acetone works. I tend to use Xylene. Wear the correct gloves and do it outdoors!
I've gone to using hot soap and water on many guns for general cleaning. As long as your rinse and dry and oil immediately, no harm done. A gun with a fragile blue finish I probably wouldn't, but AR15s and such...have at it.
colt1911fan
Member
Thanks guys alot of info here
ive heard charcoal lighter fluid is great for removing it from metal parts....
as for the wood.....one trick ive heard is to wrap the stock in newspaper......and put it somewhere hot ( in your attic, outside in the sun, ect) for several days.......remove paper, repeat as needed.
as for the wood.....one trick ive heard is to wrap the stock in newspaper......and put it somewhere hot ( in your attic, outside in the sun, ect) for several days.......remove paper, repeat as needed.
For metal parts a good grease solvent and rags.
For grease saturated wood I have used Oven Cleaner. I will move all the metal I can, get a garden hose, gloves, and a toothbrush and spray oven cleaner on the wood. I work it in with the toothbrush keeping away from permenately attached metal parts. I do not let the oven cleaner dry as it has stained wood. After enough scrub and hose cycles all grease is removed from the wood.
You can take a blow dryer to the wood or simply let dry in the shade. I tried a quick dry cycle by putting a stock inside a car. Sunlight made the interior very hot, but too much heat was a bad thing as I got a stock crack.
Once the stock is dry go over it with steel wood. There will be raised grain.
After drying start applying raw linseed oil by hand.
The pictures are of a Long Branch which was saturated in grease. This rifle was cleaned around 30 years ago and there are no ill effects to the metal parts from the oven cleaner. Even to the inside of metal bands. With a proper wash all the oven cleaner comes off.
For grease saturated wood I have used Oven Cleaner. I will move all the metal I can, get a garden hose, gloves, and a toothbrush and spray oven cleaner on the wood. I work it in with the toothbrush keeping away from permenately attached metal parts. I do not let the oven cleaner dry as it has stained wood. After enough scrub and hose cycles all grease is removed from the wood.
You can take a blow dryer to the wood or simply let dry in the shade. I tried a quick dry cycle by putting a stock inside a car. Sunlight made the interior very hot, but too much heat was a bad thing as I got a stock crack.
Once the stock is dry go over it with steel wood. There will be raised grain.
After drying start applying raw linseed oil by hand.
The pictures are of a Long Branch which was saturated in grease. This rifle was cleaned around 30 years ago and there are no ill effects to the metal parts from the oven cleaner. Even to the inside of metal bands. With a proper wash all the oven cleaner comes off.
a-sheepdog
Member
I use oven cleaner and boiling hot water. Be careful on small wooden parts, it may crack the wood.
Tomcat47
Member
I prefer WD 40 myself! ............ No perfect Answer here, lots of things work, and work well.
The WD 40 .... Get a Gallon and a Pump Spray Bottle! Spray On Let it Soak in and wipe it off! I Like simple!
The WD 40 .... Get a Gallon and a Pump Spray Bottle! Spray On Let it Soak in and wipe it off! I Like simple!
jad0110
Member
The water doesn't even have to be boiling. When I got my Finnish M39, I separated the stock from the barrel/receiver and simply took the metal parts into the shower. The cosmoline just rinsed right off. Once finished, I used gun scrubber to remove any remaining moisture from tight areas.
Just don't use a water on the stock. A warm, slightly damp rag willl work fine without soaking the wood.
Just don't use a water on the stock. A warm, slightly damp rag willl work fine without soaking the wood.
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