I just started reloading 45acp. Prior to this I have been reloading .38 special and .357 magnum. Using a Forster Co-ax press, I'm loading second hand brass, not trimmed. Bullets are Zero 230g RN FMJ. 5.5 grains Win231. Federal Primers. Overall cartridge length at 1.265-1.270. Initially, I set things up to seat and crimp in one step. The finished cartridges looked OK, but about 1/3 of them would not drop into a Wilson .45acp Case Gage. So I tried adjusting the seating/crimping die, but without any better success. Concerned about the cartridges not fitting the Gage, I reset the the seating die to seat only, followed by the Lee FCD, followed by a Case Gage check. Now almost every cartridge fits the Gage. So does my technique need improvement, so that I can successfully seat and crimp in one step? Is is necessary that all cartridges fit the Gage? Or is the Lee FCD the answer to ALL of my problems? Thank you.
Critique my reloading, please.
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243winxb
Member
Might have something to do with it.
mongoose33
Member
Try doing the crimp as a separate operation.
Resize a case and drop it into the gage or chamber of a removed barrel. It should fit perfectly.
Usually if the loaded round isn't fitting after seating and crimping its because there's too much downward pressure on the case during the operation which causes it to bulge little too much to fit in the gage. The Lee FC die irons this out with its post sizing to maximum SAAMI demensions.
A couple things can cause this bulging. A bullet that's a larger than the expanded size of the case, usually seen with cast bullets and an expander sized for jacketed. If the bullet requires extra pressure to seat it can push down on the brass too much, this is sometimes caused by failing to expand and bell the case properly. Too much crimp being applied when crimping can bulge the case wall ratherthan just producing a taper or roll of the case mouth. Fix by adjust the crimp die. Too much force or speed applied in the seating and crimping operation wich doesn't allow the brass to taper but pushes down on the case wall bulging it.
Usually if the loaded round isn't fitting after seating and crimping its because there's too much downward pressure on the case during the operation which causes it to bulge little too much to fit in the gage. The Lee FC die irons this out with its post sizing to maximum SAAMI demensions.
A couple things can cause this bulging. A bullet that's a larger than the expanded size of the case, usually seen with cast bullets and an expander sized for jacketed. If the bullet requires extra pressure to seat it can push down on the brass too much, this is sometimes caused by failing to expand and bell the case properly. Too much crimp being applied when crimping can bulge the case wall ratherthan just producing a taper or roll of the case mouth. Fix by adjust the crimp die. Too much force or speed applied in the seating and crimping operation wich doesn't allow the brass to taper but pushes down on the case wall bulging it.
dmazur
Member
Here's another post from bobaloo -
This pretty much explains the problem. The "crimp" for .45ACP is just to remove the bell. The mouth of the brass should not be buried in the bullet. The typical die is called a "taper crimp die", and is available from numerous manufacturers. Not sure if Lee makes one.
I'm sure you can play with the Lee die and get it to work, but it may be sensitive to case length variations. The taper crimp dies aren't, and they aren't critical to set up.
This is a separate step from bullet seating. As you said, you can use the Lee combination die to seat only.
As I understand things (from a 550B progressive viewpoint
), bullet seating and crimping in the same step involves forces that are "fighting" each other, and can be a royal pain to get consistent. As consistency is the goal, I would not try the combination, unless you are willing to sort your brass by type and trim all to consistent lengths...sounds like separate seat and crimp would be less work.
Case gauge as check for loaded rounds? Sure. Doesn't take much time, and you already have one, so why take your pistol apart...
Is it necessary? Well, if you don't mind extraction and out of battery problems, I suppose not. You're trusting your pistol to not fire out of battery if you deliberately make over-diameter rounds. Maybe not a good experiment.
This pretty much explains the problem. The "crimp" for .45ACP is just to remove the bell. The mouth of the brass should not be buried in the bullet. The typical die is called a "taper crimp die", and is available from numerous manufacturers. Not sure if Lee makes one.
I'm sure you can play with the Lee die and get it to work, but it may be sensitive to case length variations. The taper crimp dies aren't, and they aren't critical to set up.
This is a separate step from bullet seating. As you said, you can use the Lee combination die to seat only.
As I understand things (from a 550B progressive viewpoint
), bullet seating and crimping in the same step involves forces that are "fighting" each other, and can be a royal pain to get consistent. As consistency is the goal, I would not try the combination, unless you are willing to sort your brass by type and trim all to consistent lengths...sounds like separate seat and crimp would be less work.Case gauge as check for loaded rounds? Sure. Doesn't take much time, and you already have one, so why take your pistol apart...
Is it necessary? Well, if you don't mind extraction and out of battery problems, I suppose not. You're trusting your pistol to not fire out of battery if you deliberately make over-diameter rounds. Maybe not a good experiment.
I use the same bullets and COAL as you, and never had an issue with any brass. Since you have the FCD, seat your bullets without any crimp, and just kiss the case with the FCD. If you dont over expand your casses, the bell pretty much dissapears with bullet seating anyways, and the FCD is just good insurance. Neck tension is what holds the bullet, crimping does nothing, unless theres a groove. Crimping is more usefull in magnum revolver reloading, to prevent bullet pull durring recoil.
Try just belling enough to ballance the bullet on top, seat the bullet without any crimp, and test in the chamber gauge, or the barrel of your gun. Over crimping will bulge the case, and over belling will over work the neck, gotta find the happy medium!
Try just belling enough to ballance the bullet on top, seat the bullet without any crimp, and test in the chamber gauge, or the barrel of your gun. Over crimping will bulge the case, and over belling will over work the neck, gotta find the happy medium!
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The FCD die is not the answer to any of your problems.
I seated and crimped .45 ACP in the same step for many years before switching to crimping in a separate step. The crimp is so light, that crimping in a seperate step is not really necessary in 9MM, 40, & .45 ACP.
It is necessary for all your reloads to fit your chamber, not necessarily the gauge, but fitting the gauge will ensure they will fit any chamber within SAMMI specs.
Check your bullets to make sure they are not oversized. The wish to use cheap poorly sized bullets would be the only good reason to squish your reloads down to fit a chamber. (To save money buying cheap bullets)
Don't over bell, but bell enough to get the bullets started straight. Use more care seating bullets.
Better technique produces better reloads.
I seated and crimped .45 ACP in the same step for many years before switching to crimping in a separate step. The crimp is so light, that crimping in a seperate step is not really necessary in 9MM, 40, & .45 ACP.
It is necessary for all your reloads to fit your chamber, not necessarily the gauge, but fitting the gauge will ensure they will fit any chamber within SAMMI specs.
Check your bullets to make sure they are not oversized. The wish to use cheap poorly sized bullets would be the only good reason to squish your reloads down to fit a chamber. (To save money buying cheap bullets)
Don't over bell, but bell enough to get the bullets started straight. Use more care seating bullets.
Better technique produces better reloads.
ezypikns
Member
What in the world....
is a Wilson Case Gage? Do your cartridges feed, eject, go bang? Are they accurate enough to suit you?
I suppose if you're reloading match grade ammunition you're justified with the extra care and concern you're taking.
I just want mine to be safe and work.
is a Wilson Case Gage? Do your cartridges feed, eject, go bang? Are they accurate enough to suit you?
I suppose if you're reloading match grade ammunition you're justified with the extra care and concern you're taking.
I just want mine to be safe and work.
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