Custom Model 70 featherweight

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Covelo-NdN

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Hello the High Road,

My last rifle purchase is coming together. In October 2014 I purchased a FN Winchester model 70 featherweight (270). I'm looking for customization opinions on the project as well as reputable gunsmiths (I live in Northern California however would be willing to ship my rifle for the project.)

The rifle shot factory out of the box groups at about an inch and a half off the bull's-eye at 100 yards. The rifle shot factory out of the box groups at about an inch and a half off the bull's-eye at 100 yards.

So far we have had the action bedded and we have free floated the barrel as well as a trigger job which is set at about 3 pounds . We have put on a Galco Ching sling, and Galco bullet cuff in Dank Havana. As far as Glass and rings we have added Tally low mounts and on top a CDS VX3 with leupold scope caps. So this is where the highroad comes in to play hopefully .


What should I do next to the project ? I'm thinking of the bottom metal. And a New England custom front sites. Please chime in what would you do to a rifle that you would never get rid of and you had some extra cash to put in to make a real tack driver
 
I don't think a Featherweight is a good candidate to become a true tackdriver, but with some tweaking and load development I'd expect it to shoot 1MOA. Perhaps a bit more or less, but better than 1.5 MOA.

Not for everyone, but I have one of the SS Classic Featherweights made in the 1990's in 30-06. I put mine in a McMillan Edge stock and used PT&G aluminum bottom metal along with the a Leupold VX-2 in a 3-9X40 in Talleys. The rifle weighs 7 1/4 lbs and will put 3 rounds at 100 slightly under 1" consistently. More than 3 shots and groups start opening up.

If I'd been ordering the stock I would have preferred the Classic Compact style. But McMillan had a Featherweight stock in the Edge fill on hand for about $150 less. I got it in a week instead of the normal 4-5 month wait time to build a custom.
 
Covelo;

I'd do again exactly what I did before, have a 22" Lilja barrel in 6.5 Swede screwed into the action. I don't know, of course, if that'd allow your gun to shoot as well as mine does, but it sure couldn't hurt.

900F
 
I have several custom rifles, each one is set up for a different purpose. So, how do you intend to use this rifle?

A precision long range rifle requires a different package than a lightweight hunting rifle.

Kevin
 
Covelo,

My primary concern with BG hunting rifles is that they put their first shot from a cold barrel right where I want it and stay sighted in.

Check your rifle for that and your all done.
 
First of all, inch and a half groups are perfectly satisfactory for a hunting rifle.

But if it's doing that with factory loads and you want better, I'd work on developing a load the rifle likes before sinking any money in surgery on the rifle itself.
 
Humpfrey,

He already has done this:
"So far we have had the action bedded and we have free floated the barrel as well as a trigger job which is set at about 3 pounds ."
 
I'd put in a pressure point with a bit of bedding material. Not all rifles like a floated barrel. Mind you, like Vern says, a light barreled hunting rifle is shooting perfectly satisfactory groups if those 1.5" groups are consistent. A Featherweight isn't a target or bench rest rifle.
 
Hello the High Road,

My last rifle purchase is coming together. In October 2014 I purchased a FN Winchester model 70 featherweight (270). I'm looking for customization opinions on the project as well as reputable gunsmiths (I live in Northern California however would be willing to ship my rifle for the project.)

The rifle shot factory out of the box groups at about an inch and a half off the bull's-eye at 100 yards. The rifle shot factory out of the box groups at about an inch and a half off the bull's-eye at 100 yards.

So far we have had the action bedded and we have free floated the barrel as well as a trigger job which is set at about 3 pounds .


What should I do next to the project ? I'm thinking of the bottom metal. And a New England custom front sites. Please chime in what would you do to a rifle that you would never get rid of and you had some extra cash to put in to make a real tack driver

Does it still shoot the same after the trigger and bedding job? It was factory ammunition. It will most likely do better with handloaded stuff.

I have to agree with Sunray's suggestion about a pressure point after you check the bedding. How's your bench technique. I've owned several M70 FWT's and they, for lack of better words, have more muzzle jump.


What I did to my M70 FWT Classic and shoots well. It still has a slender barrel for the caliber it's in. Bought brand new, popped the barreled action out of the factory stock and shipped it off to McGowan.

McMillan M70 FWT stock
Bedded action
Floated the barrel
Rebarreled by McGowan with the same contour and squared up
Timmy trigger 1.5lbs
No binding of the action with mag box/floor plate.

After it came back the first shots that I ever put through it was a load work up.
Groups sizes were (stock MOA Trigger w/no work)
Charge 1- .96"
Charge 2- .41"
Charge 3- 1.23" (pulled one slightly)
Charge 4- .39"

They can shoot, however the M70 FWT acts differently on the bench than the M700 I have of the same caliber.
 
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First of all, inch and a half groups are perfectly satisfactory for a hunting rifle.

Maybe 20 years ago. But there isn't any reason why a featherweight barrel shouldn't put 3 shots under 1" anymore, closer to 1/2" in many cases. You might be able to take most game in hunting situations with a 1.5" gun, but I'd be very disappointed with those results in 2015.

The lighter barrel will heat up faster and you probably won't get 5 shots under 1" like heavier barreled guns. But 1-3 shots are all you're likely to get in a hunting rifle anyway.
 
What I did to my M70 FWT Classic and shoots well. It still has a slender barrel for the caliber it's in. Bought brand new, popped the barreled action out of the factory stock and shipped it off to McGowan.

McMillan M70 FWT stock
Bedded action
Floated the barrel
Rebarreled by McGowan with the same contour and squared up
Timmy trigger 1.5lbs
No binding of the action with mag box/floor plate.

That sounds a lot like what I plan to do to my FN M70 Featherweight. It shoots quite well as is, but I'd like to have a decent barrel manufacture re-chamber it in a slightly larger caliber, either 6.5 CM, 7mm-08 or .308. I've been looking at all of the barrel manufactures that will also chamber their barrels and mount them to your action, thus far I've been looking the hardest at Pacnor, Douglas and Mcgowen. I haven't heard much about Mcgowen, were you happy with the quality of work, turn around time and customer service on your McGowen?

To the OP, if you're really wanting to customize your rifle, and aren't too concerned with cost, I'd look at having an aftermarket barrel installed and then, perhaps look at a different stock if the factory one doesn't turn your crank.
 
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About 6 months, I thought their customer service was great. I'd use them again. I've heard good things about pacnor
 
I have a .270 Classic Fwt. and my son has two in .30-06. One of those puts five shots under a quarter off the bench at 100 yds.

We added 'scope sights and slings. Mine has factory open sights in case a scope is damaged.

They come with recoil pads installed.

My 'scope is a 2X-7X Redfield, made in the final few years that Redfield was in business. I specified the Euro reticle with three larger arms and thin wire at the top, to provide a quick sight picture in dim light or on moving game. My son has a 3-9X Zeiss on one; I forget what the other wears.

I admire the M-70 Fwt. Classic and as far as I'm determined, all they need is a good 'scope and sling. Ammo, too, of course.

If I had the money for another or for a .375, I'd order from their custom shop and get high grade wood. One of my son's has superb wood, BTW. If I needed an Alaskan rifle, I'd get the synthetic stock and stainless barreled receiver.

But beyond selecting sights and sling and the best cartridges, I don't think that more is needed. I like Federal's Premium ammo with 150 grain Nosler bullets, to make it suitable for the heaviest game a .270 should encounter. One can buy those rounds over the counter. No need to reload.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
The rifle shot factory out of the box groups at about an inch and a half off the bull's-eye at 100 yards. The rifle shot factory out of the box groups at about an inch and a half off the bull's-eye at 100 yards.

So far we have had the action bedded and we have free floated the barrel as well as a trigger job which is set at about 3 pounds . We have put on a Galco Ching sling, and Galco bullet cuff in Dank Havana. As far as Glass and rings we have added Tally low mounts and on top a CDS VX3 with leupold scope caps. So this is where the highroad comes in to play hopefully .

You have a featherweight that shoots 1.5 groups at 100 yards, and you are unhappy? :confused: Don't believe all the internet nonsense where everyone has a sub MOA rifle, a featherweight that shoots 1.5 MOA would be fine for hunting. I can't hold 1.5 MOA standing, or basically, in any hunting position with a hunting rifle. I shoot much better prone with a sling, but I don't want to carry a 12-18 pound rifle hunting.

Recently I read of a guy who had a 223 that shot 3/4 MOA, he was unhappy, changed the stock, and now the rifle shoots worse. What you have is just fine, and one in the hand is worth two in the bush.
 
I agree with SlamFire1, most people can't shoot minute of angle with a hunting rifle when in the field. Even if your rifle doesn't give you minute of angle groups on the bench it may be your fault and not the fault of the rifle. Maybe a Timney trigger could help you shoot better, or changing the length of pull, or developing loads especially for your rifle, or getting you a new pair of glasses, or not drinking that extra cup of coffee before shooting, or maybe you just need to concentrate better, or join a precision shooting club and forget about that 100 yard target. Some people shoot better at 200 or 300 yards than they do at 100 yards just because they concentrate harder.
 
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Thank you awesome advice the model 70 will be a family hunting rifle for many years to come. I appreciate all the feedback. And slamfire1 I will take your advice. I like be the featherweight it really not broke.
 
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Sounds like you got the info you were looking for and I apologize for being Johnny-come-lately but... I agree completely with sage's post.

However, I think projects are great and I "get" how much fun it can be to add bells and whistles onto something you plan to pass down. You might just add some flourishes - engraving, nice bottom metal, etc., and work up a load to get any extra accuracy available. You should be able to squeeze out a bit more with hand loads and if not - you have a good shooter as-is and a heck of a fine rifle to pass down. JMHO.
 
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