CVA Hawkin question

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flipajig

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I have a replica Hawkin that I picked up at a garage sale for next to nothing with some pyerdex I also have some FF black powder. The Boolit that I'm planing on shooting is the Lee 320 conical cast by me with and lubed with bees wax and crisco. I've shot it last year but I can't remember what my powder charge was.
What would be a good starting point useing this combination of FF and pyerdex?
Thank you
Flip
 
The twist rate on that barrel is probably 1:52, so you'll get only fair results with that conical. 1:52 is a bit of a compromise twist rate but will tend to favor round balls and the shorter conicals. I'd start with 70 grains/volume but go up to 100 in 5 grain increments if you don't like the results.
 
My .50 T/C Hawken with a 1:48 twist loves maxi-balls with 75-85 grs. of 3FG. 2FG would probably be just as good. I had a real problem getting Pyrodex to ignite consistently so I quit using it and went back to the real stuff.
 
Pyroduh of unknown vintage?? It loses it's strength and degrades over time.

Use it for weed killer and load with the real stuff. Your rifling is different than a TC or lyman, so what works in them is not particularly relevent.

A 450 grain bullet and 70 grains of powder accounted for thousands of buff in the 1870's. Your bullet weighs less, so actually you don't need more powder than that either. Why some folks think they need elephant loads for white tail is beyond me.
 
More powder does not always mean more punch. Also too much will cause accuracy to drop off. I use 80 grains 3f in mine with a PRB and have very good luck.
 
First off, do NOT use pellets, the are made for inline rifles only.

With the REAL, I shoot them with 70 grains Pyrodex RS, lubed wad and either the 320 or 250 REAL. The 370gr Maxiball does better in that gun though with 70gr RS. Maybe look into that one as well.

Depending on the year that gun was built, it COULD have a 1:66 twist, but most CVA Hawkens will have the typical 1:48 twist.

Best advice, dont dump random charges down the bore, you will NEVER get the results you are looking for. Start with one brand of projectiles, one brand of powder and swab the bore clean in between each shot so the bore is consistent.

On those Hawken rifles, its also wise to check the tang screw, mine always seem to work loose, but I do shoot heavy charges when hunting.
 
"Pyroduh of unknown vintage?? It loses it's strength and degrades over time."

Horse Hockey,, I'm shooting late '90s pyrodex RS & P and can say I've seen NO fall off on power..

To each his own, I get great groups out to 75 yrds. I use 70 gr of RS on either PRB or the 320gr boolit cast from the Lee combo. I'm shooting a T/C New Englander with a 1:48 twist

The PRB shoots a little tighter 3 in To 4-5 in on the 320 conicals ; ) PS Good Luck filling your tags
Y/D
 
"Pyroduh of unknown vintage?? It loses it's strength and degrades over time."

Horse Hockey,, I'm shooting late '90s pyrodex RS & P and can say I've seen NO fall off on power..

To each his own, I get great groups out to 75 yrds. I use 70 gr of RS on either PRB or the 320gr boolit cast from the Lee combo. I'm shooting a T/C New Englander with a 1:48 twist

The PRB shoots a little tighter 3 in To 4-5 in on the 320 conicals ; ) PS Good Luck filling your tags
Y/D
My 80s vintage Pyrodex (both RS and P) was useless. Would NOT ignite period. Like it or not, "zimmerstutzen" is correct.
 
Thank you for the replyes.
If I remember right she is a 1 in 48 I know I slugged the barrel.
I'm familiar with smoke holes I do have a inline and I'm shooting BlackHorn 209 in it with great results. With the Hawken I'm shooting eater the Piredex or FF black powder.
I also reload for all my center fire so I'm very familiar with working up a load also you measure BP by volume and not by weight. I'm going to start at 70 grains and work up I'm hoping to able to shoot 100 yards as my max range. So I have some work to do.
Flip
 
I still have 80% of the first pound of pyro I ever bought, back around 1982.
Keep it as a reminder not to buy another. Real black is available at for shops within 10 miles of home. Why buy fake stuff.
 
Let's back up just a little. Flipajig, you're hunting mule deer and elk in Idaho, If I remember my time in your state it has everything from mountains to plains. The question is what range do you figure on killing the elk or deer. Here in southern Ohio the typical white-tail kill is made at 50 yards due to hilly terrain and undergrowth. If you hunt a little north and west of me the kills happen at 100 to 200 yards.
 
Pancho. I've stated that 100 yds was going to be about my max range.
I have spent alot of time with a stick and a string in my hand so I'm used to getting close to make my shot.
Flip
 
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